W124 jacking point

[nabbott]

Seen some great references on this site and my thanks to people who spend literally hours updating their threads - v.impressive.

For my part, I've decided that my wifes ageing 124 coupe needs some TLC. So have decided to replace the front wings and have the car repainted. Having removed the bump trims/sill covers though I seem to have 3 out of the 4 jacking points in a bad way. I'm fortunate to have a compressor and having sandblasted them - sure enough holes soon appeared in the surrounding metal.

Now my question to you lot is this? Should i go to the expense of having these repaired 'properly' OR repair them by welding over them (I have never used them on a 20 year car and wouldn't ever plan to! A carefully placed bottle jack will suffice). It would seem to me that 'removing' the jacking points would alliviate the problem going forward.

Any thoughts?

 

[nabbott]

These two are the best ones (Drivers side) the passengers look even scabbier (I've yet to blast the hell out of them!)

 

[neilrr]

What happens when you reverse?

 

[coupe deville]

blast em, apply rust killer, blast em again, paint em, pack em with grease and spray some oil up em, put the plastic back on

 

[coupe deville]

What happens when you reverse?

 

[d w124]

Have them repaired and i`ll save you from going all over on the feature

 

[Will]

From what I understand, the problem is often that the jacking points rust from the inside out - the drain plugs etc can get blocked and water can get trapped inside the sill. They can look largely okay from the outside but be badly corroded inside.

It's a good idea IMHO to clean the rubber drain plugs out at least annually, and perhaps inject some waxoyl type preservative inside the jacking points.

A good idea to clean the inner arches as well - they usually fill with mud/salt/grit etc and hold water - add a few stone chips and you're into trouble with the evil rust.

Will

 

[Desk Jockey]

From what I understand, the problem is often that the jacking points rust from the inside out - the drain plugs etc can get blocked and water can get trapped inside the sill. They can look largely okay from the outside but be badly corroded inside.

It's a good idea IMHO to clean the rubber drain plugs out at least annually, and perhaps inject some waxoyl type preservative inside the jacking points.

A good idea to clean the inner arches as well - they usually fill with mud/salt/grit etc and hold water - add a few stone chips and you're into trouble with the evil rust.

Will

I had the same problem with my previous and current car (1988 190D and 1988 300TD) and did as follows:

-Removed all brittle rust and wirebrushed down to the last thin layer of rust in contact with the metal.
-Applied two coats of rust inhibitor (Rustol Owatrol available in France, not sure about other countries).
-The spots were not weakend beyond help so I filled holes with epoxy.
-Painted over with two coats of spray Blackson paint.

Invisible and cost-effective. Never had problems again (I remove the jacking hole plugs now and then and prod the repairs to make sure).

Chris

 

[MGP5Y]

I have the same problem on my E300D. The offside rear is exceptionally bad and hole upto the wheel arch. Is there a repair panel for this and is it structeral (for the MOT that is)?

 

[nabbott]

I have the same problem on my E300D. The offside rear is exceptionally bad and hole upto the wheel arch. Is there a repair panel for this and is it structeral (for the MOT that is)?

Not to my knowledge. The two pictured are the best (i.e least corroded) 2 - i'm having the car repainted so will have the body shop patch repair all four. The actual areas affected are really very small - if my old MIG welder worked i'd be doing them myself...

I'm going to bet it'll be les than £50 each jacking point..... I should know in the next couple of weeks when i get the car down there.

 

[Rob77]

What happens when you reverse?

Note ...

It would seem to me that 'removing' the jacking points would alliviate the problem going forward.