W124 Key Cylinder (Ignition Barrel) replacement HELP

[Druk]

I succeed in putting them into the 2 holes all the way, well beyond the catch and tried everything.
Wouldn't budge!
After introducing the 2 pins, do you have to turn the key in any direction to get the whole thing out? Or, do you just have to keep pulling on the key?

Try introducing the pins only as far as when you feel them retracting the springs then force them gently outboard from the key. This is just in case they are not retracting the springs quite enough to clear the housing. To illustrate the point the pin in pic post #17 has retracted the spring (and has been revolved through 90) but you can see that the arch of the spring is still protruding slightly above the face of the barrel. Once you have tried that the thing just pulls out via the key. It does not have to be further turned in any direction.

Edit. Just another thought...you are using 2mm diameter wire? Anything less would not retract the springs sufficiently.



.

 

[Dec]

Mercedes Benz 260E Ignition Lock

1987 300E key stuck in ignition - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

1987 300E key stuck in ignition - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Dec

 

[S9KSY]

Mercedes Benz 260E Ignition Lock

1987 300E key stuck in ignition - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
1987 300E key stuck in ignition - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Dec

I am fully aware of all these, but thank you anyway for your trouble.
I followed all these instructions in the past.
Did not work.
I will try again this afternoon.
This is a final notice and I am giving this stubborn ignition barrel a warning for the last time: "IF IT STILL DOES NOT WANT TO BEHAVE ITSELF, I WILL START SWEARING...!"

 

[S9KSY]

I promise, If I managed to do it and found out about the reasons why I was not able to in the past, and, it turned to be a really easy 2 minute job, I solemnly swear that I will be prepared to do it FOR FREE for any other forum member.
I am sure there are many who would have helped me by doing it themselves but for these geographical restraints.
If it is really a 2 minute job and there is someone out there nearby who would not sacrifice these 2 minutes for another poor soul, I will be very interested to know the reasons.
I do not think it is selfishness or because of lack of time, otherwise, there wouldn't have been so many members who took the trouble and spent time to read then reply.
Oh, and if I did it, I also promise to publish a much better "HOW TO" than what's already available on the internet.

I am now off to try for the last time.

If it does not work, I will pay the stealer the £50 for that 2 minute job on Thursday

Wish me luck...I am not optimistic...!

 

[Dec]

"IF IT STILL DOES NOT WANT TO BEHAVE ITSELF, I WILL START SWEARING...!"

No wonder it won’t come out, the cars petrified of you, get the wife to do it, a woman’s touch and all that. Good Luck with it anyway.

Dec

 

[Druk]

^^

 

[S9KSY]

Hurrah!
Success.
It is the threat of swearing I think.
I do not like swearing, neither does the car obviously.
I should have threatened with it long time ago.
And, I did not even need to swear!

 

[S9KSY]

I will publish on the forum a PROPER "HOW TO" with pictures.
Watch this space.
I now understand the mechanism fully.
Goodness! My ignition key barrel cylinder turned to be broken in 3 parts
Pictures to follow soon.

 

[S9KSY]

 

[neilrr]

Hurrah!
Success.
It is the threat of swearing I think.
I do not like swearing, neither does the car obviously.
I should have threatened with it long time ago.
And, I did not even need to swear!

See! 2 mins max.

What did you do differently that made the difference & what the hell did you do to your old barrel that it looks like that?

 

[S9KSY]

neilrr
I have no idea why the face fell off after I removed it.
As for the broken pin, (my theory!), I probably have forced it to the breaking point when it jammed first.
After that, it worked fine in spite of the broken pin. Hesitating occasionally.

As for the trick, I discovered that the most important step is unclipping the deep ridges that hold the shroud.
to proceed beyond the 1st hurdle, we all know that the bevel has to be with the sharp point away from the centre.
The far away 2 holes can not be entered in this position. You have to turn the pin 180 degrees so that the bevel is pointing to the opposite.
Having done that, you still can not release the deep ridges. You have to turn the bevel back 180 degrees to be able to push on the deep clips that will pull the ridges that hold the shroud.
The whole thing will come off without any twisting or swearing.
Do not worry if what I am saying does not make sense. I have been through this myself and know exactly how difficult to decipher meanings. It is probably impossible to understand without commenting on pictures which I am compiling in a new dedicated thread with all the pictures and comments that you need.
Thanks for the tremendous support that I had from everyone.

 

[S9KSY]

Sorry about the very unprofessional drawing.

 

[sraouf]

I know this is a very old post but having just done this after many hours trawling through posts and fiddling with the barrel I think the following clarifications might be useful, especially as any remaining cars on the road are getting to an age where sticking keys will become a common occurrence.
- Most forums will tell you to turn to the key to position 1 before you can insert the tool and I suspect a lot of people like me assume this is the single dot on the barrel surround. It is not. you need to continue turning the key past that and the key itself is roughly parallel to the first of the 2 dot mark.
- MB wont sell you the keyed replacement over the counter anymore citing theft prevention measures (in the UK anyway). They insist on fitting it themselves and the total cost including fitting is around £160. Alternatively if you are not a stickler for originality like me and can bear having two keys on your fob, one for the ignition and one for the doors you can buy a replacement on ebay for much less . If you do so go for a decent brand like Febi which comes with two keys and costs a princely £15.00.

 

[190]

My 190e had a similar problem with wear on the ignition barrel lock. What I did tp make it work was to dismantle the lock and re-order the pins leaving out I think the shortest one. Anyone up for pulling the lock to pieces will easily figure out how it works and know what to do. It was now a 12 pin lock instead of a 13 pin - No big deal on a 20 year old car.

 

[ray_hennig]

If you do so go for a decent brand like Febi which comes with two keys and costs a princely £15.00

Do go for a decent brand but Febi may not be. I say "MAY not be". You never know with Febi.

We're changing the barrel on my son's 190 for the genuine MB one I have. It was installed in a complete, new MB lock/switch assembly.

I removed it by making the recommended too. It wouldn't budge. I squirted lithium grease into the little holes, rotated the key and out it came. Now we have to do the same with his. He will have to make do with different keys for the ignition but they are both brand new, as is the barrel.

I think his is a Febi and it looks very different in terms of quality to the new MB one.

RayH

 

[sraouf]

I just made the mistake of test fitting the black collar without the tumbler to see how it goes in. It clicked into place without too much pressure but now it wont come out! any ideas how to remove it?

 

[ray_hennig]

I just made the mistake of test fitting the black collar without the tumbler to see how it goes in. It clicked into place without too much pressure but now it wont come out! any ideas how to remove it?

I replied to this earlier but it didn't work. Oh well!

See this link:
W124 E,CE,D,TD Class

Where I link to here:
Mercedes-190.co.uk - Login

Where you will need to register but it may be worth it.

RayH