W124 / S124 Replacement tie rod ends

[Rob77]

Local MB dealer just did a value service on my S124 and it needs a NS outer tie rod end.

I intend to buy one myself and get it fitted at a local garage. What's a good make to get? I was thinking Lemforder.

Also, is it a good idea to just replace the one or am I better assuming the OS isn't far behind and doing both?

And, while I'm at it, am I best to do the inner 2 at the same time?

I replaced the springs, dampers, wishbones, etc, fairly recently so they're all good.

 

[grober]

Nearside tie rods are sometimes more prone to damage from kerbing. Sometimes they fail due to accelerated wear from flexible boot failure meaning the offside may well be fine.
Best test is to cup your hand over the joint in question while an assistant rocks the steering wheel [ steering lock off obviously] back and fore. No violent movements obviously or hands may be trapped !!! any wear in the joint will be felt before you can see it.

 

[Steve260E]

I fitted Febi ones to mine and they were of a good quality, but I'm told you need to be careful as sometimes you don't always get what you expect from them.

I personally just replaced all the arms including the center, would be worth doing your steering damper at the same time if not already

 

[Rob77]

Thanks chaps. The actual parts are not expensive but what sort of labour is involved?

Given I'd need to have the wheel alignment redone whatever I do (it was around £100 last time), I'd be tempted to get all 4 done at once. But if labour is substantial, I'll just replace the worn one.

 

[grober]

Up on a ramp with a suitable ball joint splitter should not be too time consuming for an experienced mechanic . get a quote?

 

[Steve260E]

Thanks chaps. The actual parts are not expensive but what sort of labour is involved?

Given I'd need to have the wheel alignment redone whatever I do (it was around £100 last time), I'd be tempted to get all 4 done at once. But if labour is substantial, I'll just replace the worn one.

Took me about 1 hour 30 mins on the road with axle stands, also that price for alignment seems a bit high, I recently paid £50 for a 4 wheel alignment including camber adjustment.

 

[hotrodder]

Assuming nothing's seized then replacing tie rods ends or complete tie rods is a quick and easy job with a decent* ball joint splitter. Replacing complete tie rods can be easier/faster than changing one end as it's fairly common for the ends to be well and truely seized into the rods if they're ancient and the tracking hasn't been adjusted in eons. Don't buy a new end before checking

* mine were 'kin tight in the tapers, laughed at my initial use of the hammer 'trick' which is often faster than faffing about with ball joint splitters and this

type of splitter didn't budge them alone either, needed a load of pressure applied with the splitter + a well aimed dead blow hammer

 

[syncropaddy]

How much are original ones compared to Lemforder ones? With Febi ones you'll be doing them again sooner than expected.

 

[alabbasi]

Lemforder only, Febi and TRW quality is now questionable. Get the whole tie rod assembly , it does not cost more and make sure you get an alignment afterwards.

Easy DIY job with the splitter pictured above. Just undo the nut and back it out so that the pressure is on the nut and not the bolt head.

Worse case, a hammer and pickle fork will get them out.

Good luck.

 

[hotrodder]

From somewhere like sks car parts, midland car spares/autopartstechnik or one of the European suppliers with a UK presence Lemforder are about 1/2 - 2/3 the price of MB i.e. £25 - £30 ish ea versus £50ish list price from MB
From somewhere like eurocrap they're about a tenner cheaper than MB but as eurocrap offer free postage include postage in the price of each item mail ordering from SKS or autopartstechnik etc obviously need to order a bunch of stuff for postage to not cancel out most of the savings

 

[Rob77]

... that price for alignment seems a bit high, I recently paid £50 for a 4 wheel alignment including camber adjustment.

That's from a local place, using the proper Hunter machine, recommended by Wheels in Motion. I've had both my cars done there and it's always around £100. The MB dealer wanted £150.

 

[Rob77]

... it's fairly common for the ends to be well and truely seized into the rods if they're ancient and the tracking hasn't been adjusted in eons ...

I've has the tracking done a couple of times and the last time was less than a year ago so they should be ok?

 

[Rob77]

How much are original ones compared to Lemforder ones? With Febi ones you'll be doing them again sooner than expected.

Original MB ones £50 and Lemforder £20 approx.

 

[a111r]

Assuming nothing's seized then replacing tie rods ends or complete tie rods is a quick and easy job with a decent* ball joint splitter. Replacing complete tie rods can be easier/faster than changing one end as it's fairly common for the ends to be well and truely seized into the rods if they're ancient and the tracking hasn't been adjusted in eons. Don't buy a new end before checking

* mine were 'kin tight in the tapers, laughed at my initial use of the hammer 'trick' which is often faster than faffing about with ball joint splitters and this

type of splitter didn't budge them alone either, needed a load of pressure applied with the splitter + a well aimed dead blow hammer

This type is the best and fits the joint well (a tenner from Machine mart). Pickle forks don't, well mine didn't.

Torqued up to the 'point of worry', I left it. Ten seconds later, BANG, the 14 year old taper joint split.

I did my123's bottom ball joint with the two hammers. But they're properly built cars.

 

[Rob77]

Assuming nothing's seized then replacing tie rods ends or complete tie rods is a quick and easy job with a decent* ball joint splitter. Replacing complete tie rods can be easier/faster than changing one end as it's fairly common for the ends to be well and truely seized into the rods if they're ancient and the tracking hasn't been adjusted in eons. Don't buy a new end before checking

* mine were 'kin tight in the tapers, laughed at my initial use of the hammer 'trick' which is often faster than faffing about with ball joint splitters and this

type of splitter didn't budge them alone either, needed a load of pressure applied with the splitter + a well aimed dead blow hammer

The full rod assembly seems to be roughly the same price as 2 ends, so do you think the way to go is to get one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302080409698

And another one but for the other side? That would keep labour at a minimum and ensure I've no worries in that dept for a few years, right?

 

[bolide]

If you're going to do the whole lot, replace the steering idler as well

Nick Froome

 

[Rob77]

If you're going to do the whole lot, replace the steering idler as well

Nick Froome

Thanks Nick, I'm not actually sure what a steering idler is. The only mention I've ever heard of it is that my new Powerflow exhaust on my 190E is clashing with the steering idler on full lock and I have to get that fixed.

Is the steering idler the same thing as the centre tie rod assembly?

And would it sound a reasonable idea to replace all 3 with Lemforder parts now and in one go or would that be over the top?

 

[hotrodder]

Terminology varies (tie rod, track rod etc) but a steering idler is usually the mirror image of the pitman arm to most people i.e. it pivots in the same way but isn't driven directly by the steering box like a pitman arm.

Pitman arm and idler both connect to the centre tie rod (drag link) and the tie rods connect to that. Pitman arm drives things when you turn the wheel, the steering idler pivots through the same arc and controls the other end of the drag link. MB terminology is slightly different, https://www.catcar.info/mercedes/?lang=en&l=Y2xhc3M9PTF8fGNvd so what i'd call an idler they call an intermediate arm (#8) with #14 being the place to look for wear/slop. Destructions for the steering bits here 46 Steering

If the tracking was adjusted not that long ago then you'd hope that none of the tie rod threads are seized. Given all the other bits you've recently changed i'd be inclined to replace the lot so the front suspension and steering is then all done... soooo many ball joints in the steering linkage a miniscule amount of play in each of them soon adds up and new parts can transform things
Change an arm here and a joint there and soon end up spending lots on alignment/tracking

I'd use Lemforder parts (or genuine if any of the bits aren't available from lemforder). Dunno whether i'd replace the one balljoint, both tie rods or everything as i dunno what your steering feels like, how much play at the wheel there is etc. Chances are new joints/links throughout would transform the steering though and if i was doing it piecemeal then i'd do both tie rods at the same time and then treat the drag link and idler as one job personally

 

[Rob77]

I cannot find a Lemforder steering idler that I recognise from that diagram. Do you know of a link to one I can buy, maybe on eBay or even German eBay?

 

[hotrodder]

If googling the MB part # doesn't get any results then it's probably dealer only. I'd hve thought the idler arm itself is unlikely to have any significant wear(?), it's the bushes it pivots on that are more likely to have worn. Part # for the 'repair kit' from the catcar EPC is A1244600119. Google that (with & without the A prefix as often the later gets different/better results) and you'll get a load of results for different aftermarket suppliers along with the Lemforder part # 11078 01

REPAIR KIT - E Class 1985 - 1994 E250D - Mercedes-Benz Parts, Inchcape will get you the MB price

Have a good read through the relevant pages of section 40 and 46 of the 124performance WIS first as fitting idler arm bushes/repair kit is a bit more involved than changing tie rods for example http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD2/Program/Chassis/40-0321.pdf and http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD2/Program/Chassis/46-6317.pdf