W124 self levelling valve stripped threads. Which size tap?

[SilverSaloon]

Replaced the SLS lines today on my 1994 W124 estate.

However on the levelling value to one of the main 6mm pipes, the threads are stripped.

I want to repair this with helicoil, but need to know the type and size of the union/bolt for that part... (ie size and whether its metric/imperial etc)

does anyone know?

thanks

Derek

 

[Will]

I can't help with that exact size, but I'm pretty sure it won't be imperial

Have you had a look about on eBay/breakers, a used valve might be an easier option?

 

[grober]

Mercedes-Benz W124 Rear Hydraulic Leveling Unit Replacement | 1986-1995 E-Class | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

Appears there are both 11mm and 12mm coupling nuts to undo. Your best bet might be a hydraulic / brake pipe specialist. Best if you could take that leveling valve off and take it into their parts counter where you could try out various coupling nuts on the "good orifice" till you get one that fits?? You should also measure the dimensions [ length primarily] of the existing nuts on the car pipes

yellow 12 mm red 11mm

 

[SilverSaloon]

Yeah its the 12mm ones that im replacing. Bought some new unions from MB as the old ones were too rusted to re-use. Unfortunatly the threads are stripped in one of them, so when nipping up tight to get the seal on the flare, its not going tight enough

 

[KennyN]

If you are helicoiling the block then you will need to remove it due to the difficulty in tapping it, in situ, for the insert.

I would just replace the block if possible as the pressure in the system would require a perfect seal around the thread area , something that would be difficult to achieve with a helicoil.

To fit the insert properly then the oversized hole would need to be made on a milling machine , preferably with an endmill, as trying to drill a big hole slightly bigger may prove difficult with a hand drill and if the pipe seat is damaged the block with be for the bin anyway.

Kenny

 

[grober]

if you have to outsource the repair maybe a scrappy would be another option?
A1243280031----LOTS ON EBAY

 

[Will]

There was one on there but it's just been sold, Derek?

 

[SilverSaloon]

Yep that would be me, thanks Rob Parker!

Looks like i'm going to have to replace the smaller 11mm pipes too to each of the spheres as they are stuck on there tight and i'll have to cut them and use a socket to get them off

 

[Will]

Yep that would be me, thanks Rob Parker!

Looks like i'm going to have to replace the smaller 11mm pipes too to each of the spheres as they are stuck on there tight and i'll have to cut them and use a socket to get them off

Hi,

I'm assuming you're using a decent crow foot or flare nut type spanner?

Have you tried the usual - proper penetrating oil, heat etc?

 

[SilverSaloon]

Hi,

I'm assuming you're using a decent crow foot or flare nut type spanner?

Have you tried the usual - proper penetrating oil, heat etc?

yeah 11mm flare spanner.... one is pretty rounded. This was removed and refitted in 2012 when I replaced the spheres so I guess its now past its best. The other sphere pipe should be easier as I fitted a new one at the time so hope to retain that one. They are standard brake pipe size/fittings so easy to replace.

 

[a111r]

..Plus a carefully wielded propane torch and plumber's heat proof mat.

210 SLS valves may well be the the same shape as 124.
Whilst 123 are not the same shape.

 

[Druk]

Also, if you tap around the casting with a small hammer where the pipe nut goes it can help to break the corrosion holding the nut.

 

[SilverSaloon]

All sorted now. Replaced the stuck pipe as the union was already slightly rounded from last time it was removed, but managed to remove the other pipe I replaced in 2012 without issue so I've reused that.

New (to me) levelling valve fitted and all good

 

[Cerebralvortex]

Hi resurecting this thread....
I have SLS problems. I have replaced springs and spheres. Car sits low when at the rear when loaded or towing. It still seems to damp, just drags its rear around.
So I have been trying to change the SLS valve. I am struggling to remove it from my "spares car".
It seems the best option would be to cut the pipes to remove the unit. Then add a union or completely replace the pipes.
So does anyone happen know the part number for these pipes? Might still be available from MB
Can they be replaced with standard copper pipe - if so what diameter?
What spec are the unions/flare nuts to the SLS valve (11mm and 12mm)
Thankyou kindly. I would dearly like to get my funtiining fully again.

 

[grober]

Hi resurecting this thread....
I have SLS problems. I have replaced springs and spheres. Car sits low when at the rear when loaded or towing. It still seems to damp, just drags its rear around.
So I have been trying to change the SLS valve. I am struggling to remove it from my "spares car".
It seems the best option would be to cut the pipes to remove the unit. Then add a union or completely replace the pipes.
So does anyone happen know the part number for these pipes? Might still be available from MB
Can they be replaced with standard copper pipe - if so what diameter?
What spec are the unions/flare nuts to the SLS valve (11mm and 12mm)
Thankyou kindly. I would dearly like to get my funtiining fully again.

SPRINGS,SUSPENSION AND HYDRAULICS MERCEDES 300 TD (124190)

Parts for unit SPRINGS,SUSPENSION AND HYDRAULICS MERCEDES 300 TD (124190)

www.ilcats.ru

THERES A HYDRAULIC ACTUATOR ON THE LINE ALSO ITS DIAPHRAGM MAY HAVE GONE

HAVE YOU TRIED ADJUSTING THE SELF LEVELING VALVE ACTUATOR ARM WHERE IT CLAMPS ON TO THE ANTIROLL BAR