w124 speedo cable RHD

[optimusprime]

toilet this is your vin for fur future use .And i am still working on the right cable ..I see your car was made in India .

 

[optimusprime]

toilet,, order said Pakistan but was not made there just location of purchase delivery .

 

[optimusprime]

I found this for you . . But the Ebay is in the UK . But the number should be right its the longest of them .

 

[toilet]

toilet this is your vin for fur future use .And i am still working on the right cable ..I see your car was made in India .View attachment 125039View attachment 125041View attachment 125042

Oh my word that is quite a beautiful sight. Thank you so much!

So I ended up finding a used but largely intact throttle cable from a w124 260E (also an m103 like my 3.0) and it fit perfectly. I did see the ebay listing you posted earlier, but the seller was a little slow to respond. I took a risk, and found that the cable from the 260E was the exact same length. I got it from classicmercedesparts.co.uk

My throttle cable adjustment screw was broken, so this change allowed me to adjust throttle cable + bowden to spec, and the car is a different animal now. It now shifts in the right ranges, and there is ZERO shift flare after all the adjustments which I had tonnes of earlier. (should also mention that I have adjusted the T in the vacuum modulator at the transmission about 1 turn earlier, and also adjusted EHA screw about half turn). Huge improvement.

Consequently, my 0-60 mph times have dropped too. I clocked it using Racebox just for funsies and got 10.2 seconds to 60 mph. Factory performance specs were listed as 9.1 secs to 60 mph. So losing 1 second in 30 years isn't so bad.

This in turn implies that my engine and transmission are in good nick, so I'm a happy camper.

Slightly unrelated but I now have three problems to address:
1. There is a shudder from the rear end when shifting from P to D or D to R or vice versa when the car is warm. Not noticeable when it's cold. Also a shudder on kickdown when accelerating hard. Engine mounts and transmission mounts were recently changed. Thinking to change transmission oil and diff oil to see if that makes a difference, but do please share your thoughts on possible causes.
2. My temp gauge stays below 80 no matter how long I drive it. Only when I turn the AC on does it creep up. Is that normal?
3. When accelerating gingerly it doesn't shift up promptly at earlier rpms unless I alter throttle position. Like when I would accelerate slowly up to 2000 rpms, it should upshift at this point but it doesn't. However, when I let go of the throttle slightly, it then upshifts. Is that normal?

 

[wrdcc01]

The shudder could be either the flex joint on the propshaft and or the diff' mounting bushes.

 

[ray_hennig]

2. My temp gauge stays below 80 no matter how long I drive it. Only when I turn the AC on does it creep up. Is that normal?

I would expect the temperature to be closer to 90C when at operating temperature. Perhaps you should install a new thermostat?

My gauge always reads just under 100C and just over 100 after thrashing up a long hill in 35+ ambient with the aircon on. Too high? No, because the actual temperature, as tested with an infrared thermometer, is 87C under normal operation.

So, maybe you should also check the ACTUAL engine temperature in order to eliminate gauge error from the equation.

RayH

 

[optimusprime]

Yes 87 to 90 Also cables for kick down and throttle will need adjusting ..for shifts to work right .

 

[optimusprime]

toilet . free W124 workshop manual Google Model 124 Maintenance Manual Index . Then click on M103 then for throttle no 30-1010 and for gearbox control cable 27-110 .

 

[toilet]

I would expect the temperature to be closer to 90C when at operating temperature. Perhaps you should install a new thermostat?

My gauge always reads just under 100C and just over 100 after thrashing up a long hill in 35+ ambient with the aircon on. Too high? No, because the actual temperature, as tested with an infrared thermometer, is 87C under normal operation.

So, maybe you should also check the ACTUAL engine temperature in order to eliminate gauge error from the equation.

RayH

Judging from this, I think my gauge is definitely sitting too low. A new thermostat is in order since I'm not sure what exactly is in there right now. But there's a compounding issue, I hear a pulley noise when I turn my AC on, and the needle then begins to rise. If I turn AC off and keep driving, the needle falls back to under 80. AC on and in traffic, it continues rising up and when it is about to cross 100, I turn the AC off and let it cool. It falls down gradually to above 80. If I don't turn the AC on throughout the drive, the needle never goes above 80. Very strange.
Where does one normally aim when checking engine temp with infra red therm?

 

[toilet]

toilet . free W124 workshop manual Google Model 124 Maintenance Manual Index . Then click on M103 then for throttle no 30-1010 and for gearbox control cable 27-110 .

Adjusted the new cable to exactly the spec listed on the link, thanks for that! I then readjusted the bowden also according to factory instructions. The car has no noticeable shift flare anymore and drives near perfect!

 

[ray_hennig]

Where does one normally aim when checking engine temp with infra red therm?

I aimed at the thermostat. To me, that's the most logical as that is the place where the thermostat make its decisions!

R