W124 Suspension rebuild

[kth286]

I would also comment from experience, that shorter dampers are needed with lowered springs.

The dampers have a significant effect on ride height with 124 cars because they exert such force when installed, that they help push the car upwards.

when the dampers are removed you will likely find they have become weak, and hence the sagging suspension.

But that is not all.

Because the various suspension link bushes have now been moved out of
their normal working position, due to the lowered suspension, thay will have worn greatly.

Worn bushes will cause the suspension to lower even more. I rebuilt my rear suspension by replacing all the links and this action alone caused the suspension to rise by approx 1 inch.

Really, when installing lowered springs, all suspension bolts should be undone and the car settled at the new (lower) level, and then the bolts tightened again.

 

[Niks]

Why would the PS pump be working harder?

17" 8.25J alloys with 225/45/17 tyres, and a close enough to 50mm drop...its a standard chassis car with original steering box and control arms. They aren't designed for that sort of drop.

Unless you think the PS pump is on its way out? It still works but theres a lot more resistance. But definately not as light as it was when I first got the eibach springs/bilstein shocks put on.

 

[Niks]

I would also comment from experience, that shorter dampers are needed with lowered springs.

The dampers have a significant effect on ride height with 124 cars because they exert such force when installed, that they help push the car upwards.

when the dampers are removed you will likely find they have become weak, and hence the sagging suspension.

But that is not all.

Because the various suspension link bushes have now been moved out of
their normal working position, due to the lowered suspension, thay will have worn greatly.

Worn bushes will cause the suspension to lower even more. I rebuilt my rear suspension by replacing all the links and this action alone caused the suspension to rise by approx 1 inch.

Really, when installing lowered springs, all suspension bolts should be undone and the car settled at the new (lower) level, and then the bolts tightened again.

I got new control arms put in with new bushes, ball joints and new tie rods too. It still has the same problem as before, but it has eliminated the knocks and creaks I used to get.

I understand about the shortened dampers for lowered springs, but because my alloys are 8.25J with ET34, they sit flush in line with the edge of the wheel arches, not inside them. Hence why I need a bigger gap for suspension travel between the tyre and wheel arch. Especially for the rubbish roads we have these days, pot holes and speed bumps.

Dash... Yes mate, ive crossed referenced the part numbers on the Eibach springs with Eibach themselves, with motorsportworld, balancemotorsport, europerformance and they ALL say they are the correct springs for my car.

What Eibach are stupidly not understanding is, its not about how high or low the car is sitting whilst the car is stationairy, its about how much travel the springs are now allowing whilst braking, taking corners, going over bumps and all due to their sagging and softness. Should this be happening on springs which have only done 6000 miles since last they were put on only last year??? I dont think so.

After I get the sportline springs put on, im sending the eibachs back for them to get tested and checked. If they feel they are unsatisfactory, I will get a refund.

 

[kth286]

Nicks

which 124 car and spec have you got and which front springs did you buy ?

I use Eibachs and I would confirm that the UK sales staff are not very technical with regards to Merc applications.

The reason for the heavy steering is that the sagging has caused the suspension to have dropped to a level that the damper rubber buffer stops are now likely to be permanently touching the damper body, thus causing interference.

To confirm this, just turn the front wheels to maximum, and look under the wing of the outward facing wheel and lift the gaiter upwards so that you can see the rubber buffer on top of the damper body, and this will confirm or otherwise.

 

[d w124]

^ His car is a 280 and he has sachs super touring at the front witch is designed to work with lowering springs.I was thinking about the wrong springs to,as eibach has got good rep worldwide

 

[Niks]

Got my springs changed over today. So far the sportline springs feel much firmer than the Eibachs but I guess time will tell over a couple of months after they bed in.

Measurements...

Standard MB Springs:

Front - 17 Inches
Rear - 13.5 Inches

Sportline MB Springs:

Front - 15.25 Inches
Rear - 12.25 Inches

Eibach Springs:

Front - 14.75 Inches
Rear - 12.5 Inches

So far with the new Sportline springs, the car is sitting exactly how I want it at the rear with the original 2 nibb pad on them. The fronts however are still a little too high for my liking as these have 4 nibb pads on them. When I get the chance, I will put on 1 nibb pads on them and that will hopefully bring it down a little further.

It has now eliminated my heavy power steering problem and it actually feels a pleasure to drive now.

 

[WDB124066]

Did you replace the shocks at the same time and if you did, did you go with the adjustable Koni's up front.

Had a chat to the agents here and they said most Koni aftermarkets are up to 30% firmer than original. He said he would "re-valve" them at no extra cost if they were too firm. I am more conscious of this than most I guess because I do not have a roof - thought it was a nice offer.
He also said he may try and fit adjustable to the rear, but this meant going with a different shock than the catalogue (a Koni 30 series) and using it upside down so the adjustment was reachable at the bottom of the shock.

Ok it might cost a bit (still cheaper than original form MB dealer) but if the nominal setting is set correctly for the car, it would be ideal to have both front and rear adjustable.

What shocks did you end up with??

 

[Niks]

No I havent replaced the shocks. Im leaving the car the way it is at the moment as its a really big improvement over having the Eibachs. It really feels solid and positive, it takes bumps and corners extremely well without the crashing that I used to get.

I just need to mess about with the spring pads to get the car sitting exactly how I want now, then I think that is it really.

Maybe in a couple of months or so I'll start working on the rear end linkages, bushes and subframe mounts.

Im also thinking of changing my front wheels to 7.5" EVO alloys and keep the 8.25" ones for the rears.

 

[Niks]

Wow I started this thread a long time ago... time flyes!!

Just an update on the sportline springs though, car is now at 92,000 almost and it still drives the same as the first day i got the springs put on. It still feels really firm, theres no sagging happening at all. So all in all... sportline springs win all day long!

Next step... Bilstein B8 all round.

 

[bolide]

What did Eibach say about the springs when you sent them back for testing?

Nick Froome
the independent Mercedes Estate specialists

 

[Niks]

I didnt send them back in the end as I had enough of them on the phone and email. All they kept saying to me was they are the right part numbers for your car and we just kept going round in circles. I argued what problem I was experiencing but they just repeatedly kept putting it down to damper failure. I did countless of measurements of how high the car was sitting first thing in the morning, then again after a 30 min drive. The car had lowered atleast by 1/2 inch to an inch all round and emailed these figures to them, only to be met with "sorry but it sounds like its a damper problem, are you sure your car is on an even ground?". Then it started taking longer and longer for them to reply back to my emails, thats when I lost patience with it all.

 

[Niks]

I dont experience any of these problems now with the Sportline springs. However, the funny thing is, when I measured the length of the rear springs between the Sportline and the Eibach, the Eibach is actually shorter than the Sportline, but my car actually sits slightly higher on the rear compared to when it did with the Eibachs.

That tells me the Sportline springs are more firmer than Eibachs.

 

[Lockhart Flawse]

Creaking front suspension w124

I can't find the "new post" button so I have used the nearest on-topic thread I can find.

My front off-side suspension is creaking in the straight ahead position. If I turn the wheel to full lock either way it creaks whilst I am turning the steering wheel but once it is at full lock it doesn't creak when I push down on the wing. When the wheels are straight ahead and I push down on the wing above the wheel there is a loud creaking.

Can someone tell me which bit needs looking at please?

L.F.

 

[carat 3.6]

I can't find the "new post" button so I have used the nearest on-topic thread I can find.

My front off-side suspension is creaking in the straight ahead position. If I turn the wheel to full lock either way it creaks whilst I am turning the steering wheel but once it is at full lock it doesn't creak when I push down on the wing. When the wheels are straight ahead and I push down on the wing above the wheel there is a loud creaking.

Can someone tell me which bit needs looking at please?

L.F.

Sounds like the bottom ball joint, I've seen a seized one snap off causing alot of damage. Best get it looked at.

 

[mazza]

Wow I started this thread a long time ago... time flyes!!

It sure does Nick!!!!!

That reminds me!! are you planning to pay for the front shocks sometime soon??? or are we still hopping that I would forget???lol

mazza

 

[d w124]

Here's Mazza,hello mate

 

[mazza]

Here's Mazza,hello mate

Hello handsome,
all good mate??

I started my new year resolution nice and early mate...no more mr nice guy...lol, I heard Nick doesnt have locking wheel nuts on his Evo's...lol oooppps!! have i said too much??lol

laters mate

 

[Paul64]

more work.....

Changed my winter tyres back over this morning only to find corrosion damage to the passenger rear main suspension support bush, forward end.
I thought something was amiss but only an occasional 'floatiness' over faster motorway bumps gave it away.
Going in later this week to have it sorted....
Photos show the good condition driver side and different views of the damaged passenger side for reference...

Paul

 

[grober]

Classic MOT failure point on these cars= rear subframe front mounting often accompanied by corroded rear sill jacking points.

 

[kth286]

Merc parts are available for estates, to rebuild that part of body.

Search the forum/s - solution is there.