W124: when to change the Automatic Transmission fluid?

[JumboBeef]

I got my 1994 W124 E220 auto last week, and it has 178,000 miles on the clock but not much history. The last owner had it for 22,000 miles.

I asked him about the automatic transmission fluid (as I understand it should be changed every 36,000 miles) and if he had changed it/knew when it had been changed. He said:

Not done in my ownership, considered doing it but was dissuaded by "technical advice" from others. I would have done it later this year though as I would have done 36,000 miles by about August and I think like you do about cars. If you expect them to run indefinitely you have to give them every chance!

Should I change it in a few months (when the engine oil/filter needs doing as well), should I do it asap or should I leave it longer? Any idea what the "technical advice" was he received, which implies not changing it?

What is involved in changing it anyway? Cost? Is it a DIY job? Should I check the levels and if so, how do I do it?

Thanks!

 

[grober]

It may be that the advice was based on newer models which have sealed for life transmissions and use synthetic ATF. However even MB have had a change of heart recently and most folks do get an ATF change sometime in the first 72K miles in even the new models. MB CARS of 1994 use older fluids and should have a fluid and filter change at 36,000 miles. This is not written in tablets of stone and the fluid will last a lot longer--- and often does in neglected cars! If the fluid is "clear" reddish is colour and not dark brown or black with aburnt smell its probably OK for now. You need very good access underneath and the car level to do this easily and everything has to be scrupulously clean. I would say its a difficult DIY for a novice without access to a ramp but not too expensive in a garage specialised in automatic transmissions.

 

[JumboBeef]

If the fluid is "clear" reddish is colour and not dark brown or black with aburnt smell its probably OK for now.

Thanks! Where can I see/get access to the fluid to see what it is like? Is there a dipstick.......?

 

[SilverSaloon]

Thanks! Where can I see/get access to the fluid to see what it is like? Is there a dipstick.......?

dipstick is the red thing at the very back of the engine. check it with the engine RUNNING and at operating temp.

you can do this job with drive on ramps (ie the type from halfords or similar) as i've done it. just roll it off the ramps to do the final fluid filling/levelling

definatly change it. but aslong as it looks red-ish in colour and at the right level and the gearchanges are fine then there is no hurry.

whether you do it yourself or get someone else to do it, make sure they also drain the Torque convertor.

a how to which will be very similar to yours is here:

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=23969

i used genuine MB fluid, but at around £80 for it, its expensive and would probably opt for general Dextron II fluid next time.

dont overtighten the pan bolts either as they are not the "safe" ones as mentioned in the how to on a 124. just nip them up with your hand and then a little more with a spanner - or use a torque wrench at the specified torque which is very low

 

[JumboBeef]

Thanks!

I went to my local garage to ask them how much to change it for me, and they said £135!

Is that really how much it will cost?

They did also say the current fluid looked 'OK' so I will not worry about it at the moment and maybe get it changed when I do the engine oil/filter in 3,000 miles time.

 

[SilverSaloon]

Thanks!

I went to my local garage to ask them how much to change it for me, and they said £135!

Is that really how much it will cost?

They did also say the current fluid looked 'OK' so I will not worry about it at the moment and maybe get it changed when I do the engine oil/filter in 3,000 miles time.

sounds about the right sort of price. did this involve draining the torque convertor? many may not bother if u dont ask and basically wastes the job as the new fluid will be mixed with a lot of stuff. they should drain around 7.5 litres out of the box in total. make sure they use a genuine MB filter aswell.... not a cheaper one

 

[Dave Lewis]

Changing the fluid will be cheaper than £135 at an indy if carried out as part of a service.
Make sure it's not overfilled.

 

[SilverSaloon]

Changing the fluid will be cheaper than £135 at an indy if carried out as part of a service.
Make sure it's not overfilled.

also ask them what fluid they are going to use. Genuine MB stuff is best but comes in at £80 for the fluid alone + a tenner for a filter. Otehr than that Dexton II should be used

i've read a few threads on here over the years that talk about the wrong fluid getting used and causing problems.

 

[grober]

You will probably get away with 5 litres of Titan ATF 4000 Dexron 3 at £29-33 inc VAT from OPIE OILS or use the PARTCO equivalent which is also made by Fuchs AFAIK. You might need another 1/2 litre depending on how much is left in the unit?? No sense in overspeccing the ATF if you are strapped for cash.

 

[bolide]

If you're in the car for the long term just do it. The quote you have seems about right to me

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Smiley]

the spec is for dexron 2 but Dexron 3 is also fine - it is backwards compatible and more widely available.