W140es 500S New Battery - Issues

[Lagerlout]

Hi all,

I just picked up a 98 500S yesterday, bit of a whim purchase but I love them!

Put about 150 miles on it and the battery was a bit weak so I replaced it with a new 019 Yuasa. All good, however, it has now decided to throw two codes:

The ABS light and the BAS light.

Any suggestions here? I haven't driven it yet to see if they go away.

Does the W140 have an OBD system? Perhaps someone cleared them eh..

Cheers,
LL

 

[Ted]

Try firing her up and turning the wheel from lock to lock a couple of times

 

[Lagerlout]

Ted, you're a genius. That worked.

Couple of other issues popped up.

Got a fluid leak just ahead of the rear wheels, just a drip, coming out from one of the black covers under there. Diff seal? Seems a bit far forward? Fluid is not engine oil, it's thinner.

Front drivers window only will go 3 quarters down then it stop and I notice the door card push outwards. Window regulator or a problem with it's mounting perhaps?

Car needs a lot of TLC but it seems pretty sound really, drives well.

 

[V12]

Could be hydraulic feed for rear struts leaking or brake fluid. Either way I'd get it checked quickly.

 

[Lagerlout]

Cheers, I didn't think about brake fluid good point. The leak is pretty much in the middle of the car though so hopefully it's not brakes!

It doesn't have air suspension but are the rear struts oil filled? Is that what the reservoir is on the RHS of the engine bay? Not had it long enough to learn much about it yet (ie 24 hours!!).

I've been working on the window regulator this afternoon, got the door card off fine, but I can't see what the issue is with the regulator. It slows down three quarters of the way down then stops. The motor really moves violently against the door panel yet it all seems attached ok. Channels look clear but the felt one is a bit dry. I don't think it's that though.

Has anyone replaced one? It looks quite difficult compared to other cars as the little screws are on the inside. Is there a trick here?

 

[millo777]

The front windows have the auto up and down feature, and if the battery has been disconnected it may just need to learn the stop points again.

Try pressing the window button only to the first click, which is only vaguely percetible from the pressing it all the way, and keep it pressed for 5 seconds after it reaches the top.

It may also be the regulator has lost a few teeth and need replacing. Those double glazed windows are heavy and put a strain on the motor and the regulator.

Unrelated, but it worth also checking the dorr check straps when the door card is off. They start clunking before they fail, but when they do fail they tend to push outwards and make huge dents in the doors.

Also make sure the spheres are o.k (check for black nasty hydraulic oil in the resovoir, which is the one you mention on the rhs). If you drive aorund too long with dodgy spheres you'll end up needing new rear struts as they are rose jointed on the lower fixing, and they cost a lot to replace.

The leak might be from the sls valve connected to the rear arb. Worth checking.

Good luck with the new car!

 

[Lagerlout]

Cheers, I'll take some pics of where the leak is coming from and post it tomorrow.

I've done the reset procedure on the windows, the other three are fine, it's just the drivers side that has a mechanical problem going downwards.

How do you remove the regulator, it appears to be mounted internally not externally like other regulators. At first I thought it was riveted in but it looks like flat head screws in there but there's only a couple of inches of space, is there a special tool?

 

[Lagerlout]

OK, I've found out that these regulators are riveted in with 4.8mm pop rivets. You have to drill out the rivet with a 4.8mm bit. There's manuals on here:

Maintenance Manuals - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum