W169 won't move when in Drive

[Mejmag]

Hi guys.

I have a 2005 A class 200 CDI automatic, W169 model.
Was having problems with the battery frequently going flat, something is draining it. Got through the problem by running it at least once a day and then jump starting whenever the car had been idle for a week or more.

After lying idle for a week, I started it up, put it in drive, and nothing happened, there was no slight jerk as it normally does when going into gear. Put my foot on the accelerator and no movement. Tried reverse, nothing. Tried rolling the car forward a little, still nothing. The engine starts and I can move the gear shifter fine, but the car just stays there. Bought an OBD2 scanner but this showed no fault codes.

Can anyone suggest where I might start looking for a problem as I have no idea what could be causing this and everyone else's grarbox problems seem to be with hard shifting or limp mode. I can't find anyone else that's had the same problem as me.

Cheers guys. Matt.

 

[ernie]

Possibly broken drive shaft? Been a few of those!

Ernie

 

[optimusprime]

. This might be an eletronic shift and an easy job I will see what i can find .

 

[optimusprime]

Mat you need to rest transmision .I can tell you but the best thing is youtube video ,
How to reset w169 c200 cdi 2005 transmision Key in then turn light on dash push accelerator wait 15 seconds keep foot on allways turn key off take foot off wait 5 mins

 

[WG M-B]

The driveshaft is a very common problem on these!!!!!

 

[Mejmag]

Thanks for the reply guys. I really appreciate it. Gonna try resetting tomorrow as the weather down here is awful tonight. I'll let you know how I get on.

Cheers again lads.
Matt.

 

[MickyP64]

Let us know how you get on, I'm always interested to read about these problems - I’ve probably had every issue you could expect to have with the MB CVT (unlucky I guess). I have a couple of posts here about them.

If it turns out to be ECU related I would advise that you can now source a new ECU from MB separate to the valve body (not sure how much but maybe around £400 – cheaper than £1500+ with valve body). Personally I think this is a better option than using a service that claims to able to repair your original ECU for around £350.

If it’s mechanical the CVT can be repaired, I had mine rebuilt about 18 months ago and it’s been fine so far. If you're that unlucky (worst case scenario) you might feel that it's not economically worthwhile go this route on a 2005 car - I decided that I’d have to spend much more than the repair cost to find an alternative car that was as good as the one I already had (mine is 2006).

Hope this helps…

 

[GLK]

I would advise that you can now source a new ECU from MB separate to the valve body (not sure how much but maybe around £400 – cheaper than £1500+ with valve body).

That's really good to know, thanks

 

[Mejmag]

Hi guys. Sorry for late reply. Bought a new battery. Tried resetting the transmission according to the YouTube video but no joy. The car starts as before, but when I put it in drive or reverse, I press the accelerator and nothing. Car won't move. Also, when in Drive or Reverse, sometimes when I press accelerator, the engine revs but sometimes it does not Rev, even when holding the accelerator down, then after 4-5 seconds I get a slight Rev before the revs limp away again.

Got a new message on the user display saying "Transmission, visit workshop".
Anyone else experienced thi?
Cheers. Matt.

 

[MickyP64]

We’ve had that message come up twice in the time that we’ve owned our W169 (it's a generic transmission warning). On both occasions it was something different. I think you need to get the car connected to STAR diagnostics at a reliable MB indie, get the fault codes read, and then go from there. If you let us know your location I’m sure someone here will give you a good recommendation.

If you’re a member of the RAC or AA (we’re RAC) you could probably arrange for them to tow the car for you, I found this to be the cheapest option when our car was un-driveable (about £7 per mile). I didn’t want to risk doing more damage to the car by driving any great distance.

The first time we had this happened it was the ECU speed sensor issue – there are plenty of posts about this classic problem all over the internet (and here no doubt). Read my advice regards a new ECU if this turns out to be the case.

The second time it happened it was wear and tear within the gearbox and was an expensive repair, read this post: http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/201789-cvt-rebuild.html

However on both occasions the car would drive in limp home mode so maybe your problem is different.

Good luck, I hope it doesn't turn out to be too expensive, let us know how you get on – it always helps others that may find themselves in the same situation.

 

[Mejmag]

Ordered a transmission dipstick online. And bought a new battery. When the diostick arrives I will dip her and top up fluid if necessary. Also gonna try the OBD2 scanner with the new battery in and see what comes back.

Will keep you all posted.
Matt.

 

[Mejmag]

Hi all. Dipped the car when stone cold. Level was just below
80 degree line on dipstick. Could this be the cause of the car not moving when put into drive/reverse? I will post a pic.

 

[Mejmag]

 

[Flyinspanner]

Transmission fluid should be checked engine warm and running.

 

[Flyinspanner]

Have you looked up Loftys info page for the A Class?

Contact Forrera on Facebook, an A Class specialist in Park Royal, London. (If you are near)

 

[wongl]

You really need a star diagnostic to get the proper error codes to help diagnose your problem.