W202 Azzurite Blue Painting Tips.

[JohnnyW202]

I have alot of rust on my recently acquired 1999 W202 C200 in Azzurite Blue.

However I'm not prepared to pay a workshop to remedy the problem... Out came the drill with a wire brush attachment to expose the bare metal and any left over rust was treat firstly with jenolite, then kurust, left over night washed down and rubbed so hopefully the repair will last.

Now I know I'm not going to get the greatest finish in the world with metallic paint and a rattle can... but I've got the filler never and smooth, so that it does show through the grey primer, thing is I can't get the paint flat, my attempts so far on the front wings, have been okay but still they could be better, once a few layers of clear coat went on and it was wet sanded with 1400 grit wet and dry followed by rubbing compound, it looked alright, if not hazy it's noticable it was sprayed but still tidy compared to the rust it once was.

I've ordered some 3000 Grit Wet and Dry, it's actually a meguiar's kit, the stuff I've used before has been pretty good.

So any suggestions to how I can achieve a good finish on this project after all why drive a Mercedes, if it looks a tonne of junk?

 

[grober]

but I've got the filler never and smooth, so that it does show through the grey primer, thing is I can't get the paint flat
Sorry I can't understand what you are saying. A good rule of thumb is ---if your fingertips can feel a change in the surface you will see it.

 

[KillerHERTZ]

The rust will return. The only way you will ever get rid of it is with an angle grinder.

 

[JohnnyW202]

Sorry about that guys, the grammar is terrible in my inital post.

My fingertips clearly can't keep up with my brain, or maybe I'm just stupid.

With regards to the filler, I meant to say, I've gotten it level so it doesn't show through the primer, which requires alot of rubbing, refilling etc and usually the inital rub down ends up back at bare metal.

P.S I used an angle grinder along with the wire brush... the filler was to cover up and bridge the small bubbles, where the rust had decayed the original surface area of the wing.

 

[KillerHERTZ]

The key is time, between each coat leave it at least 24 hours (I know its difficult!).

Then, once the clear coat is on, wait a week or so before you start T-Cutting it. I did mine and it looks almost perfect

 

[grober]

One of the problems you get spraying with a can is paint mobilisation. What happens is the solvent in the spray interacts with the existing paint which often causes the metallic particles to migrate giving a "bloom or boundary" effect. The real solution is better spray equipment but failing that its simply patience and building up multiple very thin layers of spray paint at a suitable distance. This takes a long ---long time. The temptation is always to use a denser spray at a closer distance to get better colour cover rapidly but you will get blooming or an orange peel finish. Its all about patience. Again with the clear coat its thickness is important since it effects colour. One thing you have going for you is that a dark metallic like Azurite blue is easier to work with/match than the light metallics