W202 Door Check Strap Nightmare

[Feeble]

Hi

I am trying to replace my drivers side door check strap, which seems to have exploded inside the door.

I've got the old part out, the two bolts on the door were unattached from the strap. The top one came out without too much issue, but the bottom one is just spinning and spinning, and I am out of ideas.

The nut (so to speak) on the inside of the door is not spinning, it wedges in place ok, so the bolt should unwind in theory, but my guess is that the bolt is stripped inside the nut.

Aside from getting a grinder on the bolt head and trying not to touch the door skin, has anyone got any ideas how I can get this out?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/21YVJp1ckgpopxEHA

That link should show you the predicament...

Many thanks

Matt

 

[Feeble]

I have tried several times to wedge a screwdriver behind the 'nut' but it doesn't do any good.

 

[Scott_F]

If the thread has stripped try using a set of mole grips on the head of the nut to twist and pull it out.

 

[Feeble]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yYWdKio6cAdtJjZd8

The thread is only stripped inside the nut, it wont loosen or tighten any more. Hopefully this picture shows what I mean, the end of the bolts thread is still in tact.

Starting to think the old way left is to grind the head off...

 

[a111r]

Can you get a rod through the speaker hole to push on the bolt to help it unwind?
Glad I did have that hassle.... although if I did, you wouldn't.

 

[saff]

Agree with a111r. I presume it is a captive nut fixed to the door itself? Something needs to be pushed firmly onto the bolt itself whilst turning the bolt head to enable the remaining thread to catch and wind out. Hopefully it will be the bolt thread damaged and a new bolt can be used to replace. Otherwise the captive nut may have to be tapped and an appropriate bolt used. Good luck.

 

[Feeble]

It's not a captive nut, the female thread is part of the old door strap.

I have tried pushing on the back of the bolt but access is so poor that it doesnt really do a lot. I cant believe how little movement there is with this bolt. There isn't enough room to squeeze a fag paper in between the bolt and the door, but the whole nut and bolt assemble wiggles around quite freely.

I can only hope that my mate will be gentle with his grinder tomorrow.

Annoying car. I've taken my frustration out on stripping the paint off some architrave indoors, which wasnt much more fun.

Its annoyances like this that make me want to get rid of this old car, but it's going in for new sills on Monday so I might as well stick with it...

 

[KennyN]

If access permits stick a cordless drill on the hex and spin it ,fast, until it either catches the thread or wears enough in the captive nut that it can be pulled out.

K

 

[Feeble]

I cant get a drill in the gap Kenny... that is good advice though, if you can get the room!

 

[KennyN]

Can you get a drill in from the inside of the door ?

If so a small drill down each side of the captive nut may let you split it enough to let the bolt escape.

Or , can you exert some force from the inside and turn the hex from the outside to try and get the thread to catch.

K

 

[Feeble]

That's the real problem Kenny. The access from the inside of the door is limited to a 2 inch or so hole. I can get my hand in through the speaker hole, but getting tools in there is another matter.

To be honest I am now resigned to the fact that it will have to be removed with a grinder. Scary thought, but that's what it has come to!

 

[optimusprime]

All you need is a wedge under the head of the bolt and a good ring spanner to wind it out .Make a wooden wedge knock it down to hold the bolt away from the door .You can tape the bodywork under the bolt to stop any damage you might make in doing so.Come on lads did you never have a Mecano set as a boy . Or saw off the old bolt end it will come out with the broken part of the check strap.. Hole in the door is all you need to be in good condition .

 

[Feeble]

There isn't the room to knock a wedge under the bolt head. I have just had another go and got myself angry again lol. Grinder it is.

 

[Feeble]

And the same with the hacksaw method, there is no gap to get the blade in, and youd only have about an inch or two of travel so it would take forever...

 

[saff]

If you have to go down the grinder route do you have access to a Dremel? I've used mine with a cutting disc a few times to great effect. Patience needed but far easier to use with less risk of collateral damage.

 

[Feeble]

You know what, I do have a dremel tool with cutting discs. I'll give it a go! Good idea!

 

[Feeble]

Wahey! It worked! And with minimal paint loss too! Thanks for all your help lads, putting the new one in took five minutes lol.

 

[optimusprime]

Feeble did you pack it with grease before you fitted it in the door . And these come with a plastic case on now, so it keeps them dry .As they rust they make a cracking noise .If your lucky it is possible to lube them in situ I used a syringe and small bore nylon pipe and a mixture of molly and oil .

 

[Feeble]

No I didn't mate, I didn't realise that was necessary. I bought a second hand one from a111r (Andy) so just put it in as it came. The old one was exactly the same with the plastic case. I didn't notice any rust, the two tabs for the M6 bolts had just sheared clean off!

 

[optimusprime]

Feeble Maybe they came loose and the door opening and shutting to take off out the thread . Did you hear any noise as door was used .
Going back to the door strap ,you wont get any lube inside those check straps with a case on them .I would remove agin after you have a few weeks rest and grease it well .Or just go as you are ,,and when you need to replace it next time you can grease the new one.