W202 rear brake hard line length

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

thephatmaster

Active Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
81
Car
W202, C200 Saloon, Manual
Hi all,

I have a facelift w202.

I feel slightly lazy asking but I don't have the car with me to go check. Searches online for diagrams have not helped.

My MOT man is unhappy with corroded rear hard brake lines, near to where they join the rear flex pipes. I have the flaring tools so replacement won't be a problem.

I remember last time I was under there it looked like the hard lines are one piece from abs pump to rear flex connection (running via the underneath of the fuel tank). Therefore replacement requiring a long length of pipe, and fuel tank / driveline components to be removed.

However, pre-shaped spares are considerably shorter, which suggests a join somewhere near or under the fuel tank.

Anyone have any ideas? If someone knows I may be able to order pipe before i next get a chance to crawl under there!
 
Thanks, the E-Class tutorial suggests full length single piece - but the diagram suggests two piece.

I guess I'll have to have a look for the connector labelled '32' in the diagram next time I'm under there
 
A little more background on cunifer brake lines.
The Swedish car manufacturer, Volvo, began using the 90/10 alloy for brake lines in 1976 and they began tracking brake failures based on eight-year old Volvos. Brake failures dropped markedly once this new material was used. In subsequent years, other manufacturers in Europe have begun the switch to Copper-nickel from steel lines, and currently Rolls-Royce, Aston- Martin, Porsche, Audi and, of course ‘Volvo, are using this material in their new car production.
FROM
Cunifer Brake Line
 
My last 2 MOT's had an advisory for corroded rear brake pipes. Tester said it's perfectly acceptable to make a joint instead of replacing complete pipe back to the abs unit, planning to do this in the summer.
 
Finally got under there and had a look - one continuous pipe - guess I'll need to take out the fuel tank to change it.
 
I have a (cheap) flaring tool I use on cunifer pipe, which maaaay work on the steel line if I'm careful - but TBH I'm not sold on paying to have it worked on for two reasons (1) the car is a rust bucket which is nearing replacement anyway due to corrosion generally; and (2) due to that corrosion I probably need to pull my finger out and remove the tank to do some welding.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom