W203 Estate Rear Screenwash Problem

[Chrishazle]

Tried a search but can't find anything about what my beastie is doing, so "new thread".

Problem : fluid for the rear screen wash on my 2001 W203 estate is not reaching the back of the car - instead it is coming out in the front passenger footwell somewhere around the back of the glove box (but not in the glovebox itself).

I've checked both ends of the system - pulled the wheel arch protector and checked the pump was working properly (it is), checked and re-connected the blue pipe to the black rubber in the rear offside storage bin behind the rear lights, pulled the tailgate trim and re-connected the blue pipe to the back of the wiper (knew about these 2 as rear wash quit last winter, it was the connection onto the back of the wiper had popped). Tested time and again, with assistance of SWMBO in drivers seat pushing buttons - and bless her, she heard dripping noises and we found a pool of frothy water in the passenger footwell!!

I can see the blue pipe disappearing alogside the battery under the bonnet, but can't see what happens next without pulling the battery. Also cannot see up under the glovebox without major dismantling.

5 weeks ago I had a CD changer fitted into the glovebox by a local ICE firm - who told me it was necessary not just to remove the centre console to get at the back of the radio (Audio 10 radio cassette), it was also necessary to remove the glovebox to get the cabling (genuine new MB parts) to the CD changer. I can't remember using the rear washer since then until I tried it recently and it didn't work - I assumed the cold weather had popped a connection like last winter, only this year it's not quite so simple!!.

Is there another blue pipe to black rubber connection behind the battery that could have popped, or is it most likely something the ICE fitters have done removing and refitting the glovebox?

TIA for any assistance and advice.

Chris

 

[AndyPCD]

Hi

Have you tried to take the carpet out and have a look that way as you can see a little better up behind the glovebox.

Was it a genuine mercedes cd changer that they fitted if it was it is not neccesary to remove the glovebox to fit the changer.

 

[Chrishazle]

It was all genuine MB - MC3010 changer bought second hand off eBay but genuine MB, 2 cables bought from MB Oxford (partsreunited.co.uk - useful!!) and MB Ashford. I'd also read up about fitting the changer as I contemplated doing it myself, so had seen previous comments about not having to remove the glovebox. However, Enigma In-Car Audio had done other C class installations, were recommended by a local aquaintance and seemed very knowledgable, professional and helpful - said glovebox removal, although MB say un-necessary, is required to get the cables properly and neatly through to the changer!

Have not taken the carpet out - it's a bit wet at the moment! We must have mopped a quart of fluid off it! Decided a cry for help was next on the agenda!! Beginning to sound like I'll have to pull the glovebox - anyone know how?

 

[AndyPCD]

I have fitted many cd changers while working for a main dealer and never removed the glovebox as it is so involved to remove it completely.

If the carpet is that wet i would defiently remove it before it does more damage as the back of the carpet has thick foam on it and acts like a sponge to the water. And below the carpet is the electrical connectors which will corrode and cause a lot more problems.

Im not at home at the moment so have no access to the working instructions but off the top of my head i think the centre console has to come out as well

 

[Chrishazle]

Thanks for that Willow132 - sent me running out to the car to see what carpet I could pull back. Got the firewall piece back, foam below is OK (both black and carpet backing) - car was jacked up on nearside so liquid pooled against the transmission tunnel and overmat took the worst of it.

Sounds like my next action is to return to Enigma with your comments, try to get them to drop the glovebox and fix the problem they seem to have caused!

Cry for help was definitely a good idea!!!

 

[lynall]

Loads of scrunched up newspaper will get rid of a lot of the water, replace daily.

Also running air con all the time will help as well.

Look under the glovebox there is an access panel remove this and have a look with a torch to see if you can see pipe.



Lynall

 

[Chrishazle]

3am and posting - either you're an insomniac or you're currently not in Kent!

Crawling under the front yesterday getting at the washer reservoir etc has stuffed my (already stuffed) back, plus it's raining this morning (car lives on driveway as "toy" is in garage!) so crawling under the glovebox is not an option for a while.

Will post again when I've more info. In the meantime, thanks for the assistance, much appreciated.

 

[ROBB]

chrishazle,

mine had EXACTLY the same thing last week (fixed it boxing day), caused by freezing conditions

Behind the rear right hand side of the battery (behind the windscreen drain) there is a blue pipe going through a rubber bulkhead connector. the pipe connects to either side of this and is secured with a zip tie. If you remove the underside cover from the glovebox you should just be able to get your hand up to poke the pipe back into the rubber connector, although anything more permanant than this will require much removal of stuf.

It is a serious p.i.t.a and you can only get one hand in!!

seems to have fixed it for now though

robb

 

[Chrishazle]

chrishazle,

mine had EXACTLY the same thing last week (fixed it boxing day), caused by freezing conditions

Behind the rear right hand side of the battery (behind the windscreen drain) there is a blue pipe going through a rubber bulkhead connector. the pipe connects to either side of this and is secured with a zip tie. If you remove the underside cover from the glovebox you should just be able to get your hand up to poke the pipe back into the rubber connector, although anything more permanant than this will require much removal of stuf.

It is a serious p.i.t.a and you can only get one hand in!!

seems to have fixed it for now though

robb

And a little voice was heard to say "Oh SH********!!!!"

I had a funny feeling there might be another connector somewhere. I've only had the car since October 2008, last winter the first freeze blew the connection directly behind the rear wiper, so had to find out how to remove the tailgate interior trim (easy once you learn that the connection halfway up the glass slides forward to release). This time looks like all 3 connections have popped - I immediately found the one in the rear offside cubbyhole, easy fix but no wash so pulled the tailgate trim - connection also popped, fixed that but still no wash. Much swearing and cursing, decided to check the reservoir and pump next, great fun (not) removing the wheelarch guard to get at those, no problem found there so even more swearing and cursing to refit the wheelarch guard. This morning my lower back is on fire from all the bending and twisting so the idea of crawling or upending under the glove box does not appeal!!

From your description the pipe must still be plugged into the "battery" side as the fluid is coming down behind the glovebox, so sometime I'll have to do the one hand trick. Many thanks for the info - at least I now know what and where the problem is!!

 

[Stratman]

I checked in my new Haynes W203 manual and it does indeed say that the centre console needs to come out first to remove the glovebox.

Ibuprofen rub-on gel is good for the back, but red wine is better and tastes much nicer as well

 

[Chrishazle]

Ibuprofen rub-on gel is good for the back, but red wine is better and tastes much nicer as well

A man after my own heart!! Hadn't checked the thread for a few hours (been researching new freezer for SWMBO), and funnily enough it's now "sun over yard arm" time, so guess what's next on my agenda....

Thanks for all the help guys - will post further when I've played contortionist!

 

[ROBB]

at least you get more 1st hand experience of how well put together these things are

 

[Chrishazle]

Robb, Did you have to pull the battery to see the "engine" side of the blue pipe and rubber grommet? I'm wondering about trying to get the pipe completely through from the passenger compartment, then putting a little super glue on the end and carefully pulling it back a little before also supergluing the engine side into the grommet! If it means pulling the battery then I also have to think about keeping the power supply live using the "jump start" connectors and either a battery charger on low or my battery conditioner. You're no doubt aware that C class do not like being without a 12V supply, even for a very short time!!

I've not yet tried to get at anything as last night's anaesthetic has worn off - if it goes on like this I will have to get our village garage to do the necessary!

 

[ROBB]

Chris,
You might think that there would be a single pipe going through the bulkhead connector - this is not the case though

there is a pipe from either side (just long enough to meet the connector) and the 90 degree rubber connectors appear to be part of the connector block. MB use a zip tie over the rubber connector to secure the pipe inside.

i think that the connector block will come out - but in order to affect a more permanent solution the dash/glovebox/battery etc need to come out

I would have a look first - see how little space there is!!

robb

 

[Chrishazle]

Thanks Robb - I might have guessed that MB would make it easy for the guy that puts the pipes in - no engine or interior trim in the way during assembly! - but awkward when things like this happen. This will have to go on the back burner for a while as I've really stuffed my lower back and hip, so contortioning under the glove box really is not an option right now! Our local garage did an excellent job of the front suspension and brakes earlier this year at very reasonable cost - £25 per hour labour! - so I may just have a word with Nick!! Once it's sorted I'll add to this post - there's bound to be some other poor sod has the same problem in the future, and a search here and on "the other side" gave no results, so all the info in this post is really useful.

One thing I'll probably do - next time I have the tailgate trim out to re-connect the pipe to the wiper, I'll put a little superglue on the pipe before I shove it back in, then cable tie it. Same for the 2 connections in the rear offside cubby hole.

 

[Chrishazle]

Update

Well, the sciatica eased enough for me to crawl under the glovebox, and I found exactly what Robb said was there. Dropping the kick plate is easy - remove the overmat, undo the 2 screws at the front of the kickplate (multipoint screws, not regular Phillips), pull the carpet back from the firewall and the kickplate comes out easily. The felt stuff on the back was still quite wet, so it's now in the house drying.

Sure enough, the blue plastic pipe has popped out of the black rubber grommet. 2 of us spent an hour trying to get it back in - removed the cable tie, tried every which how to get the ****** back in - but it's like trying to push up a piece of string. First off the hole in the grommet is smaller than the OD of the blue pipe - logical! Second, the grommet has a 90 bend just above where the pipe pushes in, it's almost impossible to get something behind the bend to hold the rubber still - so as you try to push the pipe in, the rubber bit bends and runs away.

Stupid piece of design - if the rubber bit was 10-15cm longer it would be accessible and easy, instead it's a centre console and glovebox out job. I've sent a "your design engineers do not think" email to MB customer services, wonder if they will reply!

So, garage job - might try to audio boys who fitted the CD changer for £50!

 

[ROBB]

I Thought you'd have fun with that hope the back is holding up - i take it you did not get the pipe back in at all ???

 

[Chrishazle]

I Thought you'd have fun with that hope the back is holding up - i take it you did not get the pipe back in at all ???

Correct - 2 of us spent about an hour trying to shove the pipe into the grommet - talk about pi***ing up a rope! I ended up on my back, feet between the headrests, head in the footwell and a constant stream of beeps all around - did my sciatica no end of mischief. Ah well, good excuse for more "anaesthetic" as recommended earlier!

MB customer service have acknowledged receipt of my email - telling their design "engineers" they need to put more thought into their designs - but have yet to respond.

Just to add to the fun, searching the forums for info on this problem has possibly identified another one - called faulty thermostat! Wondered why the heater was so poor and slow, engine temp doesn't even get to 60 in 7 miles / 10+ mins, haven't doen a longer run yet - but apparently replacing the thermostat is also very fiddly!

So, my first ever MB, had it 14 months, and list to date is :
MAF (in first 2 weeks, warranty thankfully!)
Front suspension - £350
Front discs/pads - another £150
Rear screenwash - twice!
?Thermostat

I've had all sorts of cars over the years - Ford, Rover, Vauxhall, Volvo, Range Rover, Fiat, Citroen, Porsche, VW, Chevrolet, Renault (I think that's all of them) - and none have given me this much grief. So much for the "prestige" MB marque!

 

[Stratman]

........ I ended up on my back, feet between the headrests, head in the footwell and a constant stream of beeps all around - did my sciatica no end of mischief..........

That must bring back memories

 

[AndyPCD]

The thermostat isnt that hard to change and yes it could be the reason your car doesnt heat up to well.

I actually have replaced a few over the last couple of weeks