W204 C200 CDI max. speed 150kmh (HELP)

[snky1987]

Hi,

I do not usually do this but this time I need to cry for help
My beloved W204 C200 CDI is seriously ill.

Today I tested my car on straight part of non busy motorway to prove my concerns and it looks like my car does not go faster than 150kmh (around 95mph).

When I reach this speed it starts to shake (literally entire car is shaking), RPM does not go up so as speed.

I logged this situation using OBD-II device and Torque Android App (link attached below). When you click on this link you will be able to see the part when I started to accelerate till I released the "accelerator pedal" to start losing the speed.

The RPM from from 2900 to 2400 is exactly the point when I changed the gear from 4th to 5th

It looks like turbo is reaching around 22psi (1.5 bar) and the rpm reaches 2700 RPM on 5th gear and that's it.

To remove shaking during drive i did so far:
1) Replaced all tyres and balanced the wheels (perfectly balanced now)
2) Replaced brake discs and pads in front and back
3) Diagnosed the tow bars and all other connections to wheels (only the ones close to wheels) by car mechanic.

All seems to be ok. No error codes on my OBD device although I had something with "low O2 circuit Sensor 1 Bank 1" but when I cleared it in the morning it didn't come back

Please help
ps. I will book MB Specialist for Monday morning to do final check by specialists as well...
ps1. EGR is cleaned (did recently), oil + all filters (air, fuel and cabin) replaced and I usually use BP Ultimate Diesel fuel

Link to my Torque App logs (also attached to the post): https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-IDYptKcv0a4d2MpnHRCNkOSK1twbXB7PXbsT03OxZg/pub?gid=1518832176&single=true&output=pdf

 

[kid-jensen]

If you were going for maximum speed, why did you change up from 4th to 5th at 2900?

was that the point where it started shaking?

Did the shake start at the engine then spread through the car, or start from the chassis somewhere?

 

[snky1987]

If you were going for maximum speed, why did you change up from 4th to 5th at 2900?

was that the point where it started shaking?

Did the shake start at the engine then spread through the car, or start from the chassis somewhere?

Hey, the point when it started to shake the car is actually all over this diagram.
It starts to shake as low as 60mph but it is easy to mistaken it with "uneven road" (like my wife said) because it is very light.
At 90mph is shakes so bad that my wife said ("Ok, now I am feeling it, slow down or it will fall apart"). And on the diagram it will be between 21:06:21 and 21:06:56

It is hard to say where the shaking comes from to be honest. I think it is from the chassis somewhere.

However today I was driving 40mpg with 1500rpm and wit accelerator at the constant position I started to feel the shake, and it felt like car was moving forward few a bit and the backwards (shake was horizontal) and then RMP started to float but not too much (+-100rpm).


Today I also got the error code on Torque App "P2054" but the app says "Reductant injector circuit low bank 1 unit 2"
and the people on Mercedes Forums says it is "Camshaft position sensor" so I do not know anymore

Camshaft position sensor would make sense to what I experience in the car (low power) so then the shaking may be unrelated to low power issue. Reductant Injector is just an ecology stuff so I do not think it will affect my issue.

 

[grober]

My guess from your "horizontal oscillation" description is you have an automatic transmission problem. Low fluid level, torque converter problem, no lock up etc
You need to get the fault codes read especially the gearbox ones.

 

[snky1987]

My guess from your "horizontal oscillation" description is you have an automatic transmission problem. Low fluid level, torque converter problem, no lock up etc
You need to get the fault codes read especially the gearbox ones.

Thanks man. I will go to Star Diagnostic on Friday and will post the update here.

 

[snky1987]

My guess from your "horizontal oscillation" description is you have an automatic transmission problem. Low fluid level, torque converter problem, no lock up etc
You need to get the fault codes read especially the gearbox ones.

Sorry for bothering you but I have additional question once you mentioned Automatic Transmission.

When it is very cold and I drive on lower speeds and low RPM (about 1500) and I chose to accelerate I hear the noise that sound like old water pipes at home. It lasts till about 1700 RPM


The other thing I realised is that when it is very cold and I shift the gear for the first time (sometimes on the second as well) on that day gearbox reacts much slower than normal and it pushed me into the seat a bit when it finally change the gear (translating "changing the gear is not smooth")

 

[grober]

These symptoms may be down to a low fluid level but getting the gearbox fault codes should help determine if this is the problem.

 

[ioweddie]

what about the prop shaft bearings

 

[snky1987]

I just came back from Star Diagnostics check.

No faults on gearbox at all.
The error that shown was: 2064-007
"The electrical line between B50 (fuel temperature sensor) and N3/9 CDI control unit has open circuit / short circuit to positive"

In garage they said the the fuel temperature sensor (000 905 08 00) died and it needs to be replaced (£85+VAT from dealer).


Doesn't it seems weird that temperature sensor causes the power loss (huge in my case) and causes the car th shake ? Or were they right and there relation between my symptoms and the faulty sensor.

Also shall I definitely replace it or is it possible to clean it (like with MAF issues) ?

 

[grober]

W211 220CDI Error Code P0183 Fuel Temp sensor | Page 2 | Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums
will tell you where it is and generic substitutes.

Compatible part numbers:

LWS098
C.I. XEMS258
EPS 1830338
FACET 73338
FAE 33880
FUELPARTS WS1196
KW 530338
LUCAS CAV SNB978
MERCEDES-BENZ 0009050800
MERCEDES-BENZ 0051538328

e.g
https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/facet-2180493.html


ps its a solid state device -can't be cleaned.

 

[snky1987]

W211 220CDI Error Code P0183 Fuel Temp sensor | Page 2 | Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums
will tell you where it is and generic substitutes.

Compatible part numbers:

LWS098
C.I. XEMS258
EPS 1830338
FACET 73338
FAE 33880
FUELPARTS WS1196
KW 530338
LUCAS CAV SNB978
MERCEDES-BENZ 0009050800
MERCEDES-BENZ 0051538328

e.g
https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/facet-2180493.html

Thanks man so much. It is really an milion pounds answer. Thanks.
From you experience shall I buy super expensive MB sensor (£90) or the replacement shall be just fine ?

 

[grober]

FACET and LUCAS are well known aftermarket names. Unfortunately I can't give a definitive answer because I have never had occasion to use either. For £30 my inclination would be to give it a go in the light of no other fault codes. Looks a relatively easy DIY altho you may have to bleed the system if its not self bleeding. Did the garage that did your diagnostic checks think this was the problem??

 

[snky1987]

FACET and LUCAS are well known aftermarket names. Unfortunately I can't give a definitive answer because I have never had occasion to use either. For £30 my inclination would be to give it a go in the light of no other fault codes. Looks a relatively easy DIY altho you may have to bleed the system if its not self bleeding. Did the garage that did your diagnostic checks think this was the problem??

I just bought FACET sensor thanks and with my tools I will be able to replace it by myself easily.

When I asked them "Is this the issue I have" they said "This is the only code computer shown us".

This garage advertise itself as "Independent Mercedes and BMW specialists" and the do only Mercedes and BMW cars within manufacturer warranty and this is the only reason I drove 50min. to them in the morning and paid £60 for diagnosis so I hope it was it

According to them, faulty fuel temperature sensor can cause an miss-fire and "confusion" of the engine so I guess it may be it... let's see.

on Monday I will have Grearbox service (new oil + filter etc.) and I will replace this fuel temperature filter and I will post an update here


I wanted to do the gearbox oil change long time ago and they charge only £125 for it so I decided to do it asap this time

 

[KeithJG]

In my own experience i would not use BP fuel if it was FREE.

My Zafira 1.6 petrol won`t run on it properly and miss fires at higher speed giving a pulling back feeling.....OK dawdling around but not on the open road.

I would seriously drain out the tank and top up with Shell`s best and see what happens?

On turbo motors if the engine temperature is low then the boost is reduced by the ECU for engine safety reasons. As an example on my previously owned Volvo T4 V40 the temp. had to reach 88 degrees before full performance or boost was achieved.

 

[snky1987]

In my own experience i would not use BP fuel if it was FREE.

My Zafira 1.6 petrol won`t run on it properly and miss fires at higher speed giving a pulling back feeling.....OK dawdling around but not on the open road.

I would seriously drain out the tank and top up with Shell`s best and see what happens?

On turbo motors if the engine temperature is low then the boost is reduced by the ECU for engine safety reasons. As an example on my previously owned Volvo T4 V40 the temp. had to reach 88 degrees before full performance or boost was achieved.

That's interesting. I had the impression that on BP fuel my car is running better than Shell. I didn't notice any difference between Shell and old cheap ASDA, but I will definitely try. It costs me nothing and its worth the shot.

 

[snky1987]

Ok, I am still waiting for the sensor to be delivered and so far I had my gearbox oil (and filter etc.) changed.

The difference is MASSIVE !!! It was the best spent £125 on this car so far. It feels like a different car:


1) no delay on gear change and the gear change is very smooth

2) no "kick in the butt" feeling from time to time and no lack of acceleration

3) car is now very responsive to accelerator from the start to end (no 'delay' on start

4) fuel usage is now much better (dropped from city: 9,5-11 l/100km to 7.5-8.5 l/100km) I didn't have the chance to check motorway efficiency.

5) On 'idle' (according to my Torque Pro app and OBD device) MAF no longer jumps, RPM no longer jumps, engine load no longer jumps and Air to Fuel ratio no longer jumps (it is hard constant 29:1)

6) I don't have this situation when I am driving on constant speed 60mph and the RPM starts to floating about 100rpm, it is also gone.


I didn't check my top speed and shaking issue but I will do it this evening definitely.
I will keep this post updated just in case if someone will have the similiar issue in the future

 

[grober]

Glad the fluid and fliter change has had the desired effect. On the principle of "if it ain't broke-- don't fix it" I would hold off changing the fuel temp sensor for now till you see how the car runs in the coming weeks.

 

[snky1987]

Glad the fluid and fliter change has had the desired effect. On the principle of "if it ain't broke-- don't fix it" I would hold off changing the fuel temp sensor for now till you see how the car runs in the coming weeks.

I managed to confirm that the car is not shaking on speeds above 70mph. I was able to easily accelerate to 90 mph and then 90-100 mph and I didn't chad a chance to test it further (safety and legal reasons).

But it was enough to confirm that the issue is now completely gone.


About the sensor it makes sense what you say but computer shows me that the is an faulty sensor and the car is still not behaving on cold engine.
Before it reach at least 60 celsius it can lose some rpm on low gears and sometimes struggle to keep the rpm stable.

I think it may be this faulty sensor, but I will keep the original one just in case as see what changed.

I will also change the fuel "just in case" from BP to Shell as advised.
After I change the sensor I will post an update here for further reference


Thanks for all the help so far