W204 C250 - DPF Pressure Sensor Fault

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Sorry the autocorrect is pain, I wrote on rev limitation.
I can tv until 3200, and I can’t change any gear manually. Is changing only itself and around 2100-2300 revs.
 
I think it's a Star ecu software update + adaption required for the new dpf pressure sensor as there has been several revisions of this part .
 
yeah many upgraded versions of this part but all you really need is any obd reader good enough to delete the error code so that you delete the code before you change The sensor and also after u change it should the error code still be there. The procedure I do myself on these models with this problem is
Delete error code
Change sensor
Delete code again (if still present)
Run forced re-generation Process
Delete all and any codes after re-generation
Job done.
If u can get a garage to give u a good price to do a forced re-generation on it (if you donT have diagnostic gear good enough to do it Yourself) Then give them the new sensor and ask them to replace it and do it in the order as above.

I think it's a Star ecu software update + adaption required for the new dpf pressure sensor as there has been several revisions of this part .
 
Thats way over the top. It take 5 minutes to replace it and once replaced there IS NO CALIBRATION or learning process for them. Only Need to delete any error codes so that it can automatically run its regeneration process during normal driving.

Hi Guys,

I'm new here :thumb:
I've been lurking for a bit but I am in need of a bit of advice so I thought I'd drop a quick post.

My Car: 2010 Mercedes C250 W204 - 75k FMBSH - Mainly do short trips as of late (Which I know it not good for a diesel)

So, I've done a quick search through old posts and I saw a couple of threads relating to my issue but no where near as many as I thought I would as apparently it's quite a common problem. And none which actually tells me where the sensor is.

Basically my issue is my car will put itself into safe mode it done it once about four months ago I restarted the car and it was fine ever since so I classed it as a one off however as of yesterday it's a reoccurring problem.
I took it to a local indie who scanned it with a Snapon tool and it's come up with P2454 which is the DPF sensor.

From research I understand it could be the pipes connecting to it which are either broken or clogged or of course the sensor itself, at a cost of just £50 I might as well just replace the sensor.

I was wondering if anyone could kindly point me in the right direction as to where it would be on my car? I've heard lots of different locations which I am guessing is down to people having different engine variants.

Also, the indie quoted me £160 to fit and 'calibrate' it.. Is he trying to go in without lube on me with this one as from what I understand it's a simple case of plugging in and clearing the fault codes - which I can do with my basic OBD2 scanner.

Thanks!
 
I hope you guys can offer some ideas on this one. I had the P2454 code throw up with safe mode and EML. I replaced the sensor which has solved the safe mode issue but it's still throwing up the P2454 code and EML. There's no other codes as far as I can check. It's odd that it drives fine now despite the code and EML? The code can't seem to be deleted or cleared with the basic android app I'm using (it did on the previous sensor though, albeit temporarily).

My first guess is that it requires a regen, or maybe it needs a software update of some kind? I don't know how to check DPF levels or force a regen, especially if the EML is on. I'm only using a standard OBD2 connection with a freebie Android reader app.
 
I hope you guys can offer some ideas on this one. I had the P2454 code throw up with safe mode and EML. I replaced the sensor which has solved the safe mode issue but it's still throwing up the P2454 code and EML. There's no other codes as far as I can check. It's odd that it drives fine now despite the code and EML? The code can't seem to be deleted or cleared with the basic android app I'm using (it did on the previous sensor though, albeit temporarily).

My first guess is that it requires a regen, or maybe it needs a software update of some kind? I don't know how to check DPF levels or force a regen, especially if the EML is on. I'm only using a standard OBD2 connection with a freebie Android reader app.
I think you need an MB specialist, where do you live buddy ?
 
I think you need an MB specialist, where do you live buddy ?
Thanks for the reply. I left the car alone for 24 hours to let it go through its usual idle reset functions and low and behold the EML cleared itself. I'll return if the issue presents itself again.
 
Thanks for the reply. I left the car alone for 24 hours to let it go through its usual idle reset functions and low and behold the EML cleared itself. I'll return if the issue presents itself again.
See you soon then buddy ;)
 
Hi guys I left a comment on another thread but this is more aptly titled. If I replace my sensor do I also need to replace the wiring? Apparently that can go faulty too. Issue is not many people sell the wiring.
Once the hardware is replaced can I just clear the code and take it for a blast for the car to do a regen? Thanks
 
Hi guys I left a comment on another thread but this is more aptly titled. If I replace my sensor do I also need to replace the wiring? Apparently that can go faulty too. Issue is not many people sell the wiring.
Once the hardware is replaced can I just clear the code and take it for a blast for the car to do a regen? Thanks
I think you need Star diagnostics to force the regen .
 
Hi guys I left a comment on another thread but this is more aptly titled. If I replace my sensor do I also need to replace the wiring? Apparently that can go faulty too. Issue is not many people sell the wiring.
Once the hardware is replaced can I just clear the code and take it for a blast for the car to do a regen? Thanks
You most definetely DO NOT need a STAR diagnostic to clear or do anything. As long as you get the codes cleared BEFORE you fit it and AFTER you fit it . Then if the sensor is not a cheapo one your fault will be gone and the car will regen as long as their are no other errors in the system.
 
You most definetely DO NOT need a STAR diagnostic to clear or do anything. As long as you get the codes cleared BEFORE you fit it and AFTER you fit it . Then if the sensor is not a cheapo one your fault will be gone and the car will regen as long as their are no other errors in the system.
Thanks HITECH. You legend. I’m buying a genuine Mercedes part and will fit it after clearing the code and also clear the code again after fitting.

Should I then go for a long motorway drive to start a regen?
 
Thanks HITECH. You legend. I’m buying a genuine Mercedes part and will fit it after clearing the code and also clear the code again after fitting.

Should I then go for a long motorway drive to start a regen?
Go for a drive with it yeah but no need to do anything diffirent. drive it as you would normally. no point wasting fuel to see if its working properly or not. I hate this advice take it for a long drive and thrash etc etc. If the car is fixed then it will be good to you. If its not then will give you a limp mode / engine light / error code etc. What a lot of people that diagnostically regen cars dont tell you is that after a regen the car kicks up loads of out of spec error codes which is completely normal due to the temp the DPF is heated up to. After a regen. The car is simply cleared of error codes and left to cool down. So if you are diagnostically going to regen it. Make sure u wipe all error codes after the regen. It is more uncommon for any codes to kick up during a moving regen.
 
Go for a drive with it yeah but no need to do anything diffirent. drive it as you would normally. no point wasting fuel to see if its working properly or not. I hate this advice take it for a long drive and thrash etc etc. If the car is fixed then it will be good to you. If its not then will give you a limp mode / engine light / error code etc. What a lot of people that diagnostically regen cars dont tell you is that after a regen the car kicks up loads of out of spec error codes which is completely normal due to the temp the DPF is heated up to. After a regen. The car is simply cleared of error codes and left to cool down. So if you are diagnostically going to regen it. Make sure u wipe all error codes after the regen. It is more uncommon for any codes to kick up during a moving regen.
Thanks again for your help. Sorry for the late response. I’ve ordered a genuine sensor and waiting for it to arrive.

Yesterday the car showed another related code P2453 (instead of the usual P2454) which is
P2453 Diesel Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance.
I hope changing the sensor alone will fix this and I don’t have to mess with changing the wiring
 
Thanks again for your help. Sorry for the late response. I’ve ordered a genuine sensor and waiting for it to arrive.

Yesterday the car showed another related code P2453 (instead of the usual P2454) which is
P2453 Diesel Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance.
I hope changing the sensor alone will fix this and I don’t have to mess with changing the wiring
May all be because the car can’t perform a regen so stuff is blocking up ?
 
May all be because the car can’t perform a regen so stuff is blocking up ?
Yeh I was thinking the same. Not going to drive car now until the sensor is fitted. I may have to check the tubes too for soot.
 
UPDATE:

I installed a new genuine MB sensor, cleared the codes before and after and so far all good! Done a couple of motorway journeys (a total driven of around 70 miles) and no limp mode anymore!
Thank you all who have given me solid advice.
 
Go for a drive with it yeah but no need to do anything diffirent. drive it as you would normally. no point wasting fuel to see if its working properly or not. I hate this advice take it for a long drive and thrash etc etc. If the car is fixed then it will be good to you. If its not then will give you a limp mode / engine light / error code etc. What a lot of people that diagnostically regen cars dont tell you is that after a regen the car kicks up loads of out of spec error codes which is completely normal due to the temp the DPF is heated up to. After a regen. The car is simply cleared of error codes and left to cool down. So if you are diagnostically going to regen it. Make sure u wipe all error codes after the regen. It is more uncommon for any codes to kick up during a moving regen.
Thanks for your help with this mate
 
Another update. Glad I didn’t have the map removed as the car flies now in ‘S’ mode. Never mind 0-60 it’s more like 0-100 in seconds.

I’m attributing this new found performance down to the DPF being cleared out now that the car is behaving as it should. I’ve not got a diagnostics machine to check soot levels sadly.
 

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