W204 Torque settings on brakes

Discussion in 'Wheels, Tyres, Brakes & Suspension' started by PeteC, Jul 1, 2019.

  1. PeteC

    PeteC New Member

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    Hello, I'm looking at changing the front brake discs and pads on my C Class cgi 180 W204 2010. I would like to know the torque settings for the Torx screw in the disc, the bolts holding the calliper and the sliding bolts on the calliper. Can anyone help me? Regards.
     
  2. Blue30

    Blue30 Member

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    Since nobody else replied yet...

    Torx on disc - just nipped hand/screwdriver tight, it just keeps everything in place while the wheel is off

    Caliper carrier to hub bolts - frikking tight, a good few hand thumps on a 1/2 inch ratchet till they stop moving

    Caliper slides - not super tight, just hand tight with a 3/8ths will do, they just need to not come loose again.
     
    a111r and Bellow like this.
  3. Bellow

    Bellow Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Change ratchet to T-Bar. (Ratchet shouldn't be subjected to such force IMO).
     
  4. OP
    OP
    PeteC

    PeteC New Member

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    Thanks for all the advice and that's what I would have followed anyway but as I have a torque wrench I was trying to use this with the correct settings just to make sure that I've tightened things up properly. Does anyone know what these torque settings are?
     
  5. Bellow

    Bellow Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    For the caliper bolts...find a 'how-to' video on YouTube for something that requires caliper removal (eg, replacing discs) from a similar sized car and use the torque figure provided? It won't be far off. From memory, my car (smaller than yours), caliper bolts are torqued to 90N.m.
     
  6. TheJudge

    TheJudge Member

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    I had a similar query and found this post: Torque Settings

    I installed the Android app and it gives the torque values
     
  7. a111r

    a111r Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    On my 202 and 210, the caliper to knuckle torque is 110 Nm. Like a wheel bolt.
    I rarely measure these big steel fasteners on re-assembly (old calibrated arm...)

    I'm much more attentive to the lower torque values (associated with transmission pans, pilot bushes, glow plugs); i.e. small bolts into aluminium threads.
    The arm does not have a 95% confidence level when there are 'single digit' torque values specified.
     
  8. OP
    OP
    PeteC

    PeteC New Member

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    Thanks to everyone who has contributed. I've load the TechApp for Mercedes as suggested by TheJudge and there is all the information I need. For the disc Torx screw it's 10Nm and for the bracket it's 115Nm. However for the sliding pins, it's 25Nm for M8 x 70 or 34Nm for M8 x 28. I'm guessing the 70 and 28 are the length of bolts in mm so when I remove the old bolt I simply measure the length and then torque to 25Nm or 34Nm - correct?
     
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  9. OneForTheRoad

    OneForTheRoad Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Why would you need to measure them . If ones 70mm and the other 28mm.?
     
  10. OP
    OP
    PeteC

    PeteC New Member

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    You're quite right. I should be able to tell simply by looking at them. I guess that I was looking for feedback on if I had interpreted the information correctly.
     
  11. Bellow

    Bellow Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    I'd guess your guess is correct. The only other variables are material strength and thread pitch. The former extremely unlikely, the latter not recognisable in the metric representation (ie, the pitch would be expressed in mm and be typically around 1.0mm) used here.
    (Imperial systems can use TPI - threads per inch and '28' would be a pitch just shy of 1mm - but systems aren't mixed (only where power is quoted in hp and torque in N.m does that happen (to garner the biggest numbers) but don't get me started on that again!)).
     
  12. OP
    OP
    PeteC

    PeteC New Member

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    Thanks for all the advice. I've now purchased my new discs and pads in readiness to tackle this job. The pads are Ferodo FDB4199. I'm learning that the pads are directional. I now understand that the chamfer and arrow must point in the same direction as the disc rotation. There is also a moon cut out on one side of the pad. I understand that the moon cut out must also face the cutting edge of the disc rotation. However …. I see that there is not L or R on the pads to indicate that the pair of pads should be fitted on the drivers or passenger side. So therefore, my questions is - should the moon cut out be on the inside or outside of the disc i.e. should the piston (my car only as one piston) be in contact with the pad with the moon cut out? The Ferodo web information is not clear. It looks like I could possibly fit the pads on their side - if the moon shape is on the piston side, then these set of pads go on the drivers side where as if the piston should not come into contact with the moon cut out, then these pads would go on the passenger side - in both scenarios the moon cut out and the arrow comply with the direction of the disc. Does anyone understand what I'm trying to say ? I've sent a technical query to Ferodo but haven't received a response. Can anyone enlighten me?
     
  13. OneForTheRoad

    OneForTheRoad Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    You should have 2 pairs of pads the same. Look at whats removed when fitting the new pads. You take 1 pad from each pair to make up 1 side.
     
  14. OP
    OP
    PeteC

    PeteC New Member

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    So I have 4 pads in the set. 2 are the same and the other two have arrows and half moon cut outs. As I don't know what pads are currently in the car, these may not help me whilst I'm in the middle of doing the job. I'm trying to ascertain everything before I start. So the question is …. do the pads with the half moon cut outs go on the piston side (inner) or on the outer side of the calliper? The answer to this will dictate where the one set goes on the driver or passenger side. I've read about the piston making contact with the half moon cut out but then I've seen videos of the half moon going on the side without the piston.
     
  15. Bellow

    Bellow Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Do two of the pads not have a strip of metal that is the wear indicator? That's the normal set-up and they are fitted toward the centre of the vehicle (ie, inside) and the requirement for them to be read (possibly in relation to markings or a reference point on the caliper) should indicate whether the wear indicator is uppermost or lower - dictating which side (OSvsNS).
     
  16. OneForTheRoad

    OneForTheRoad Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Any of the pads got a 3 fingered holder that sits inside the piston.? When i did mine the piston side pad had an arrow printed on. Also when you start the job the 2 pads that come out will match 2 of the new ones.
     
  17. alecmascot

    alecmascot Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    The ones with the backing-pad cutout go on the piston side with the arrow pointing in the direction of the disk rotation..
     
  18. OP
    OP
    PeteC

    PeteC New Member

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    All four pads have holes for the sensors. There isn't a fingered holder (I think the rear brake pads may have a finger holder looking at previous videos). So alecmascot has answered my question - it would have been my guess also as I would have thought that the cut out somehow reacts with the piston head to give smoother braking - perhaps less judder and vibration. So unless anyone has another opinion, I'll along with alecmascot's response. Thanks again for all the feedback - this is what makes this forum so useful.
     
  19. Petrol Pete

    Petrol Pete Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    If you tighten up the little countersunk screw that holds the disc on to the hub you will find the disc will run out when spun. I am sure there is a setting out there somewhere, but it is the roadwheel bolts that ultimately hold the brake rotor in place.
     
  20. OP
    OP
    PeteC

    PeteC New Member

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    I've already discovered that it's 10Nm for the torx screw on the brake disc. It's the orientation of the pads I was trying to determine next. I've been told that the cut out on the pad should be on the piston side of the disc.
     

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