Hi Folks!
Please let me thank you all for a wonderful wealth of information. I live in one of the most isolated capital cities and there are only 5 star systems within 4000k's so you've all helped a lot with posts.
I have a w208 clk 230k year 2000 that is acting up. I have had it for 9 years and looked after it. Never any problems until this year.
I took it down to one of the dealers that I can still talk to without going insane and had a full diagnostics done for $700 including head check.
Original symptoms were refusing to rev over 3200rpm then progressing to engine failure.
I have had my good indie replace with origional parts the MAF and waterpump which has gotten the engine running once more. Also new bosch or NTK spark plugs and just to be safe the brake switch which appears to throw things out of whack according to posts I've read and the initial diagnostics.
My indie garage naturally is unable to read the codes and I cant find anyone who can. I should probably invest in a decent code reader shortly as it will be cheaper than a single read from a dealer.
Anyhoo! After replacing the MAF, waterpump, plugs, basic service and "resetting" the ECU as per two guides I found (1. foot pedal down, 2. dc battery) the engine is running great, although still doesn't want to go over 3500.
If I pop the car into 2nd gear and gently depress the accelerator I can get it happily up to 5000rpm, although if I attempt this by a hard push on the juice pedal; it feels like a speed / electronics limiter is getting in the way and will limit at around 3200rpm.
I have read in some posts that the MAF may need to be reset with the STAR system, although others report that the aforementioned ECU reset techniques have worked for them.
This is a slightly premature post as my garage forgot to put the original error codes printout from the dealer back into the car. I was in a rush when I picked it up, although I will go and get them on monday.
I can hear the supercharger clutch engaging at about 1600rpm and the "air redirection flap for supercharger circulation" (sorry its name has slipped my mind) is also audible.
I plan to get the car back in to have the oil breathers cleaned to prevent re-fouling of the MAF.
I do have the BAS light on, although I am lead to believe from the initial diagnostics that this may be due to a faulty "inertia / accelerometer" sensor, although at $900 to replace and Im not really driving over 60kmh in this town its not a high priority today.
If anyone would be so kind as to shed some light as to what may be happening I would be grateful. I do however understand that it's not so easy without all of the codes.
(The sunroof springs are also FUBAR from living near the ocean, although thats a problem for another day! It pops up and down so thats good enough for the now.)
Cheers folks, and greetings from Australia where its been 56 days straight with weather over 30'.
Andy
Please let me thank you all for a wonderful wealth of information. I live in one of the most isolated capital cities and there are only 5 star systems within 4000k's so you've all helped a lot with posts.
I have a w208 clk 230k year 2000 that is acting up. I have had it for 9 years and looked after it. Never any problems until this year.
I took it down to one of the dealers that I can still talk to without going insane and had a full diagnostics done for $700 including head check.
Original symptoms were refusing to rev over 3200rpm then progressing to engine failure.
I have had my good indie replace with origional parts the MAF and waterpump which has gotten the engine running once more. Also new bosch or NTK spark plugs and just to be safe the brake switch which appears to throw things out of whack according to posts I've read and the initial diagnostics.
My indie garage naturally is unable to read the codes and I cant find anyone who can. I should probably invest in a decent code reader shortly as it will be cheaper than a single read from a dealer.
Anyhoo! After replacing the MAF, waterpump, plugs, basic service and "resetting" the ECU as per two guides I found (1. foot pedal down, 2. dc battery) the engine is running great, although still doesn't want to go over 3500.
If I pop the car into 2nd gear and gently depress the accelerator I can get it happily up to 5000rpm, although if I attempt this by a hard push on the juice pedal; it feels like a speed / electronics limiter is getting in the way and will limit at around 3200rpm.
I have read in some posts that the MAF may need to be reset with the STAR system, although others report that the aforementioned ECU reset techniques have worked for them.
This is a slightly premature post as my garage forgot to put the original error codes printout from the dealer back into the car. I was in a rush when I picked it up, although I will go and get them on monday.
I can hear the supercharger clutch engaging at about 1600rpm and the "air redirection flap for supercharger circulation" (sorry its name has slipped my mind) is also audible.
I plan to get the car back in to have the oil breathers cleaned to prevent re-fouling of the MAF.
I do have the BAS light on, although I am lead to believe from the initial diagnostics that this may be due to a faulty "inertia / accelerometer" sensor, although at $900 to replace and Im not really driving over 60kmh in this town its not a high priority today.
If anyone would be so kind as to shed some light as to what may be happening I would be grateful. I do however understand that it's not so easy without all of the codes.
(The sunroof springs are also FUBAR from living near the ocean, although thats a problem for another day! It pops up and down so thats good enough for the now.)
Cheers folks, and greetings from Australia where its been 56 days straight with weather over 30'.
Andy
