W208 CLK full beam not working (but flasher does)

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JDMariner

New Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2008
Messages
13
Location
West Sussex
Car
CLK230K Avantgarde year 2000 (W208)
My year 2000 CLK (W208) has a problem. When the lights are on and then you push forward on the stalk to try and select 'full beam' nothing happens. The full beam lights do work if you use the flasher by pulling back on the stalk. This has been an intermittent problem. I've managed to temporarily solve in the past by fiddling with the light selector switch (above the parking brake release), I've a feeling it may be a connection or something behind that rather than a stalk problem?? Any ideas anyone??? Can anyone tell me how to get the selector light switch out to check connections (if you think that may be the prob??)

Is there maybe a relay involved that may be flaky??

Many thanks in advance - MOT is due and obviously would fail currently!! :(
 
I had a similar problem in my old Saab 9-3. The fault was with the light relay.
A staggering £75 from the main dealer, or £15 off Ebay.
 
Thanks Will, worth checking then!! Can anyone point me in the location of the light relay for a W208? (assuming you agree it's a possibility?)

Thanks
 
Can't seem to see a relay that would effect the full beam, any ideas anyone?? Bit desperate due to the MOT being overdue now!! Help!!
 
Only dip beam and flash are checked at the MOT test, aren't they?
 
Oh really?? That could be a result then?? Anyone else know if that is correct? To be honest I so rarely use full beam anyhow as don't often travel at night on the sort of roads where you could have full beam on for more than 20secs anyway, so happy to hold on flash if ever need be. Certainly would be good to get mot passed first, then would have more time to try and get full beam prob fixed after.

So, anyone else confirm for me - is full beam checked in MOT??

Thanks
 
Just checked, I think main beam are tested... Oops.!
 
Argghh, had me hopeful then!! ha! Was just looking online to see if I could get confirmation as well.

Looks like back to hoping someone knows what the prob may be then??
 
All the headlamp power goes through the main switch and not through relays, so it has to be either the rotary switch, column stalk or wiring fault.

To remove the switch remove the dash under and side panels, remove the trim over the switch unit ad unscrew it. You will need the parking brake release handle removed as well to gain access.
 
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Thanks, I was fairly sure there wasn't a relay involved. Hmmm, seeing as have had 'some' success in past by fiddling with the rotary switch ) basically turning it on and off 10's or 100's of times and then the full beam suddenly working correctly then I'm sort of edging towards a dodgy connection on the back of that. Just got to try and work out how to get it right out so can check connections etc...

Cheers for your input Dieselman, if anyone else can throw some light (excuse pun!) on this before tomorrow then may save me some time and headaches!

Thanks
 
There is no relay between the switch and bulbs, otherwise the warning system wouldn't work, and before the switch is only the fuses.

If wiggling the switch works, then suspect that.
 
Grrrr, still no joy - Have got to back of the switch and done a bit of waggling etc (haven't mananged to have any electrical testing done on it yet). Anybody got any other wisdom on this by any chance - I'm sensing it could get expensive!!
 
I would go for a faulty stalk.
 
Had Exactly the Same Problem

Just after I bought my W208 CLK430 cabrio I had exactly the same problem. The supplying dealer first replaced the stalk on the steering column and that fixed it ... for about one week. Next time they replaced the entire rotary switch unit - and that fixed it completely! It's been perfect ever since. And by the way I was always disappointed with the main beam lights (my dipped beams are Xenons) until I replaced the bulbs with Philips X-treme power items ... now they are every bit as bright as the Xenons.
 
faulty light switches

Just after I bought my W208 CLK430 cabrio I had exactly the same problem. The supplying dealer first replaced the stalk on the steering column and that fixed it ... for about one week. Next time they replaced the entire rotary switch unit - and that fixed it completely! It's been perfect ever since. And by the way I was always disappointed with the main beam lights (my dipped beams are Xenons) until I replaced the bulbs with Philips X-treme power items ... now they are every bit as bright as the Xenons.
Can you give me a ball park figure for the cost of the new stalk and the new switch as I have the same problem. Cheers
 
its 6 years since the last post but its worth a try as I have the same problem did you find an answer I already changed the stalk multi function switch
regards

Vic
 
My year 2000 CLK (W208) has a problem. When the lights are on and then you push forward on the stalk to try and select 'full beam' nothing happens. The full beam lights do work if you use the flasher by pulling back on the stalk. This has been an intermittent problem. I've managed to temporarily solve in the past by fiddling with the light selector switch (above the parking brake release), I've a feeling it may be a connection or something behind that rather than a stalk problem?? Any ideas anyone??? Can anyone tell me how to get the selector light switch out to check connections (if you think that may be the prob??)

Is there maybe a relay involved that may be flaky??

Many thanks in advance - MOT is due and obviously would fail currently!! :(
ok so, I had the same thing on my car, the first thing is to check the fuses on the drivers side of the dash, you will find the fuse third from the end on the top row will not live . there is the trouble, the fuse will not be blown , this is a good thing . so now the fix ,remove the under cover in the foot well drivers side , put your hand up the back of the fuse board ,there are two plugs on the back, make sure they are pushed in all the way and there you go. Now try the main beam switch should now be working if you still have the problem ? test the fuse again if you now have 12v there the switch is faulty and needs replacement ,but try this before you going buy something you don't need i hate spending money on things to find they were ok in the first place . hope this helps someone. Worked for me when my car failed the mot test last week, fixed and now passed . thanks for letting me join you all
 

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