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W208: Creaking - ARRRGGHHH!!!!!

Any of the above will be fine. Lets you see if it will stop the creaking and inexpensive. If it works you may want to try something better, but then again, if it works, why fix it :-)
 
I removed the trim tonight to reveal all the studs holding the panel in place and guess what? There are 6 missing studs! So it appears at some stage in the cars past, this panel has been removed and someone couldn't be bothered re-fitting all the bolts! The missing ones were located on the sides in quite awkward places, so I relocated some of the studs into these places but now only have one stud on the bottom tyre well section.

Whilst I had it all apart, I fitted the foam strips to the inside of the panel to hopefully reduce friction noises....not that I think it will be a problem once all the studs are in place! :rolleyes:

Anyone know where I can get hold of 6 M10 studs?

Cheers
 
Screwfix have a selection mate -http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=0FSXRYGPIMORACSTHZOCFEY?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=M10&searchbutton.x=0&searchbutton.y=0&searchbutton=submit
Guess you can always try Mercedes.
 
Hi,
Just put bolts in instead of a stud and a nut.
 
tpwuk said:
Before I burn my car and throw it in the dock, can I run something by the forum please??

See this picture....

DSC00117.jpg


The black metal panel bolted down, which protects the roof motor & hydrolics etc. This is the source of my creaking! When I completely loosen the bolts, the creaking stops. So I assume the creaking is caused by friction between the panel and floor and the rear wall when it's fastened down. Is there anything I could place between the parts, eg. felt or something similiar to reduce the friction?
Click to expand...
Turn your cd up & all the creaks/whines stop:D
 
I think you've sort of shown that its structural. The missing bolts at the side are what fasten it to some fairly hefty body sections. The creaking clearly showed that you'd got differential movement between the panels/sections that just shouldn't be happening...that should be prevented from happening by all those bolts.
 
Hood motor is behind there isn't it ?

It's probably had motor/pump problems in the past and someone has had it off to work on it , and not put it back properly.
 
Yeah that's what I think. The vacuum pump is behind there also as is access to the subwoofer.

These 6 missing bolts are ruining my enjoyment but I am mega fussy! :)
 
Mercedes in Blackpool only have three the of the buggers in stock! lol £1.30 + vat each! Jokers!
 
Probably, but you'd have to compare against your existing bolts for length. Don't forget the washer as well, probably need the split washers, the ones that are cut to prevent the bolt loosening
Quote - A split washer is a ring split at one point and bent into a helical shape. This allows the washer to exert a spring force between the bolt or screw head and the substrate, helping to prevent the bolt from turning and loosening due to vibration. Spring washers are used to apply a pre-load or flexible quality to a bolted joint.
 
Oooops, please ignore the use of Split Washers, they are perceived in the industry as actually causing the bolt to loosen under vibration, a detailed thread can be found here Automotive Engineering other topics - Split Washer Placement
Also an interesting read here if you can be bothered Vibration Loosening of Bolts and Threaded Fasteners

Basically a thread lock is to be used or properly torqued bolts, personally I have never had any issues with thread lock. On my R6 vibration is an issue for bolts and thread lock has never let me down when doing any servicing, and trust me there is a lot of vibration :-)

Thread lock here, and its vibration proof :-) http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=5577&Referrer=froogle
 
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have a look in the bottom of the spare wheel well, under the spare wheel - that's where the bolts fall, maybe it was just too much trouble for the guy who removed/replaced the panel to fish them out.
Failing that just use M6 bolts (standard thread). Star washers if you must. Anything's better than nothing - the creaking noise is your car flexing when it shouldn't.
I don't think silicone or draught excluder is advisable at all.
 
chris846 said:
have a look in the bottom of the spare wheel well, under the spare wheel - that's where the bolts fall, maybe it was just too much trouble for the guy who removed/replaced the panel to fish them out.
Failing that just use M6 bolts (standard thread). Star washers if you must. Anything's better than nothing - the creaking noise is your car flexing when it shouldn't.
I don't think silicone or draught excluder is advisable at all.
Click to expand...

They're 10mm bolts so I assume M10's will be okay? I think they're 20mm long too.
 
Sorry - thought they were M6 - I know there's about a million of them and it's only when you've put the last one in that you remember you forgot to plug the roof module in. Just borrow one of the remaining ones and take it into bolts r us (or similar real shop). Whatever you do don't pay MB 1.30 each!
 
You're right, the are M6's. Just bought a bag of 100 for £3.50 from screwfix! :-)
 
So, all the bolts are in and are nice and tight but the fecker still creaks!! :mad:

Take the panel out and the creaking stops! :wallbash:

Maybe my expectations of a 10 year old MB convertible are too high. Should I expect a certain amount of creaking?

I don't notice any of it when the roof is down, so maybe it's just something I have to live with. Shame that the roof is up 95% of the time though! :doh:
 
tpwuk said:
So, all the bolts are in and are nice and tight but the fecker still creaks!! :mad:

Take the panel out and the creaking stops! :wallbash:

Maybe my expectations of a 10 year old MB convertible are too high. Should I expect a certain amount of creaking?

I don't notice any of it when the roof is down, so maybe it's just something I have to live with. Shame that the roof is up 95% of the time though! :doh:
Click to expand...

Can't help, sorry, but sympathise with your situation. I HATE a creaker.
 
Are you sure it's the panel?
You mention no creaking when the roof is down - the worst creak on the cabrio is from movement between the roof/rear window and the base of the bow.
Try wedging a duster or something in the finger-sized gaps between the bottom corners of the rear window surround and the base.
If that stops the creak - THEN - you can use the draught excluder!
 
chris846 said:
Are you sure it's the panel?
You mention no creaking when the roof is down - the worst creak on the cabrio is from movement between the roof/rear window and the base of the bow.
Try wedging a duster or something in the finger-sized gaps between the bottom corners of the rear window surround and the base.
If that stops the creak - THEN - you can use the draught excluder!
Click to expand...

It's not that the creaking stops when the roof is down, it's just not as easy to hear. I think the roof folding into the void dampens a lot of it and the rest of the noise just disappears into the air.
 
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