W209 clk500 brake lines replacement help pls

[astamir]

Hi everyone!
Help with WIZ needed pls the rear offside brake line gone rusty and started leaking jacked it up and was thinking to replace the both rear brake lines to the rear calipers. At this stage it looks to me I need to drop down a bit or remove the petrol tank? Drop down a bit or remove the rear subframe? My old computer is down and cant access the WIZ. Can anyone help me please with the method from WIZ or if you know the best way to do it pls.
Thanks in advance

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[DSM10000]

No access to WIS but when I had the rear brake lines replaced on my W203 my Indie certainly dropped the fuel tank down. The MB book time was around 8 hours!

 

[astamir]

No access to WIS but when I had the rear brake lines replaced on my W203 my Indie certainly dropped the fuel tank down. The MB book time was around 8 hours!

Thanks for the reply
Do you know if he dropped the rear subframe to get it out

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[DSM10000]

Thanks for the reply
Do you know if he dropped the rear subframe to get it out

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He (from memory) was thinking he may have to do that but I do not think he did. Cost (3 years ago) was £599.99 inc VAT, parts were around £33.

 

[rf065]

When MB did my CLK, they said both subframe & tank had to be dropped. Just noticed yours is a W208, mine was W209.

 

[astamir]

When MB did my CLK, they said both subframe & tank had to be dropped. Just noticed yours is a W208, mine was W209.

Thanks for the reply. The lines I'm doing are on w209 clk500. So its right then that the rear subframe and petrol tank has to be dropped down. I'm just wondering do they have to cone off or droping down would get the line out

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[DSM10000]

Thanks for the reply. The lines I'm doing are on w209 clk500. So its right then that the rear subframe and petrol tank has to be dropped down. I'm just wondering do they have to cone off or droping down would get the line out

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My fuel tank was dropped not removed, subframe was certainly not removed, possibly lowered.

 

[astamir]

Ive being working on this a good few hours today and I dont know how this job should be done cant be this hard. Do the dealers joining the pipes somewhere in the middle? As all the heatshields in the engine bay covers all the points that holds the pipes in places
Any one with WIZ access can check this for me pls

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[Codger49]

Had a look in WIS to see what it said for my CLK500.

Not much help, I'm afraid, and have attached the WIS proc. No mention of access issues, but it does say you can have up to 2 joints.

Second doc gives some more info on couplings.

 

[astamir]

Had a look in WIS to see what it said for my CLK500.

Not much help, I'm afraid, and have attached the WIS proc. No mention of access issues, but it does say you can have up to 2 joints.

Second doc gives some more info on couplings.

I think this one is for the repair procedure.
Can I ask you to check the replacement one pls for me.
Thanks

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[Codger49]

Had another look through WIS - afraid I couldn't find anything different than the proc already posted.

This chap from another place simplified the replacement by re routing around the fuel tank:

CLK (w209) brake line insanity!!

 

[astamir]

I wanted to get original ones and thought they come already shaped and ready to fit, but they aren't anymore unfortunately as I've been told

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[astamir]

I got to the point where I need to drop the fuel tank down on passenger side I removed the 13mm and 27mm nuts on the bracket that hd the tankand still not coming down. After a further investigation) I found one side bolted to handbrake cables point right above the driveshaft.
The question now is do I need to remove the driveshaft or just lowering would be enough to undo it.
Any help would be very much appreciated

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[astamir]

What brake tubes shall I go guys? Are copper ones any good?
Thanks

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[pmcgsmurf]

What brake tubes shall I go guys? Are copper ones any good?

No, not if they are only copper, they are to soft and brittle.

Steel coated is best or Cupro Nickel (Kunifer) as an alternative.
The steel lines will be much harder to form than the Cupro ones.

 

[astamir]

No, not if they are only copper, they are to soft and brittle.

Steel coated is best or Cupro Nickel (Kunifer) as an alternative.
The steel lines will be much harder to form than the Cupro ones.

Thanks for the reply so originals from the dealer or the ones the plumber shops selling galvanised ones?
Cheers

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[pmcgsmurf]

Thanks for the reply so originals from the dealer or the ones the plumber shops selling galvanised ones?

Plumber shops.

Plenty places to buy from online, Frost, Automotec etc.