W210 2002 Estate Vibration / Shaking

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datripsta

Active Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2012
Messages
127
Location
UK & Hungary
Car
E320 CDI ( S210 & S211 )
Hi there,

I'm reasonably new to MB and my w210 but have a lot of DIY experience with SAAB 900T 16, the real SAABs not the GM rubbish. IF you know these cars you know to own one you need to be prepared to get your hand dirty. I've done everything to tans exchange to full engine over hall as well as full bush and suspension overall on these. Very different beat to the E320 CDI but I would say I know my way around them and can carry out most jobs to a good standard.

Anyhow I bought a 2002 W201 E320 CDI Estate Avantgarde with all the trimmings a month or so back. It had a few minor faults; warped discs, UK drivers side roll bar bush on its way out as well as the same side drop link not looking its best. The car sat for a few weeks as work meant I had no time to fix these probs, The car drove perfect with a negligible pull to the left when cruising on the motorway and slight vibration when breaking.his is expected given the above however no noticeable vibration on acceleration, hard or standard or when letting of the pedal. No clonks unless i hit a BI pot hole which I put down to the worn bush and drop link. Nothing to note as just as smooth as it should be. Like being on air, I cant say that about the old bone shaker 900 t16. T but the do go like stink.

This weekend I had to do an emergency 1200 mile trip across Europe to get a stranded friend. Drive over was fine but on the way back vibration started and got progressively worse and worse. The speed of the vibration point decreased from around mph to 80mph and when braking it was dreadful at speeds of 50 or over. Naturally I slowed down and cruised home doing 50 or so. The few occasions I had no choice to over take ( hills etc... ) there were a few clunks on very hard acceleration which weren't present before. this was after about 900 miles. No grinding, no notice of any whining etc..... the few times it happened it was a sweet short clunk. Cars permanence was fine just the vibration at time was so bad it shook the whole car. there was a sweet spot for this to happened, for the better use of a term, which progressively got to slower and slower speeds. If I went over the speed it happened by around 10 mph it stopped but I didn't want to risk it.

I've been all over the forums and I am thinking I have the original problems I bought the car with but these look no worse than before the journey as well as a diff donut gone + wheel bearing.

All vibration feel like its front right but I'm new to these cars so it could be a red herring. the last 200 miles I turned off the stereo so I could listen out for anything nasty and stop.

Only other worthwhile comment is the thermostat is defo shot as the running temp never got above 60 with most of the trip running at 45 to 50.

Gear changes are so smooth I cant really tell its changed gear other than engine tine and seeing revs drop. Self leveling works as it should and shock tests seem good. New shocks were put on the front by last owner 3 yrs ago at 150k

I don't have time to go to where the car is stored again due to work and need to order parts sop I can do the work this coming weekend. The parts to fix the above aren't that expensive and if they are not needed its not a bad thing to replace anyway. I just want to make sure I'm on the right track and haven't missed anything obvious from reading well over 200 posts on vibration and the effect of a defective thermostat on these cars.

Car has done 180k now and been serviced regularly however no paperwork to cover the past 6 months. No rust, body damage, 8 stamps in service book then all MB specialist etc.. and seems well looked after with correct services done and correct interval up to a recent point.

I'm now to MB and this forum so want to say thanks in advance to any helpers and I look forward to contributing where I can.


Cheers,

DT
 
I had a dreadful vibration from my car this time last year. It was the off side front tyre.
 
Tyres checked, wheels balanced etc.... Continental 235/35/18 front 265/40/18 back good tread etc.....

I will get them checked again.
 
My wifes w203 has the same thing vibration over 60 mph nor i or the local mot station can find a fault
 
Is the vibration reaching a point the car shakes where you think its too much to drive it or just a small vibration. Mine is not the latter that's for sure hence why I need to get it sorted before I drive it again.

I think I am going to go and replace what I know is bad, get the wheels checked as the balancing weight may have come off and go form three. The things know combined with maybe bad wheel alignment and unbalanced tyre could be all it is. Just thought its worth asking if I've missed anything obvious.

I think having a good look around when the wheels are of is going to help.

Whats wheel bearing replacement like to do on these ? looks straight forward enough but any tips are always welcome.
 
Tyres checked, wheels balanced etc.... Continental 235/35/18 front 265/40/18 back good tread etc.....

I will get them checked again.

Those tyres are entirely wrong. The diameter of the rears is much bigger than the fronts. You should have 235/40 on the front and 265/35 on the rear. I am surprised your cruise control works...or maybe it was a typo?
 
You're right, its the other way round. 40 on the back, 35 on front - just been out to the car to take a look.
 
Ok so I defo did a typo

Just been to the car - it 40 front 34 back

Update

No parts turned up so I too the time to do the checks instead.

Both wheel bearings shot at the front

Both sway bar bushes on their way out, off side (uk) more than near side.

Both drops links on their way out, off side a lot more than near side

Breaks look ok, nothing like I was expecting, but will replace discs and pads too as well as front shocks.

All other joints and bushes look reasonably new expect shocks. Off side lower shock bush is starting to dry out . All joints tested and showing as good, no movement apparent.

I took the car for a short run down some bumpy road at slow speed to check exactly where the clonk is coming from. Its got the feel of a worn ball joint but my mate nor or I could not get either side to show any slack in the joint.

Checked rear prop doughnut and looks good, I couldn't get to the front with what we had to lift the car up with.

Are there recommended shocks for the Avangarde or should I start a new thread for this. I've seen a lot of people mention blinstine HD's....
 
The drop links and roll bar bushes are the usual cause of clunks on these cars.

The wheel bearings are easy to adjust...why do you think they are shot?
 
Ok, I did not know they are adjustable.

Off side has lot of play, its around 8mm. Near side about half that. I just did the top to bottom of wheel test with wheel jacked up. With the windows open on a quiet road its easy to hear the bearings whining. I thought it was just road noise but I guess I didn't really know how quiet these cars really are.

I'll look for a DIY on adjusting the bearings but if they have been left this loose for so long would they not be shot ? I've just done 1200 miles like it which cant a have done any good. I'll be chuffed if I can adjust them.
 
update

so not to leave this thread hanging - here is a recent update which hasn't solved the problem - more advice needed

Late last week I redid all engine and trans mounts - Idle is much better but nothing improved on vibration Today I replaced the front wheel bearings myself =- followed the DIY - its not to bad of a job - huge difference even after having my bearing adjusted last week. not just vibration but the whole feel when driving the car is much better - not the slightest tram-lining, man hole covers or road bumps don't feedback and move car off track like they were and I had no movement that could be felt at the wheels when checking - but when then bearings where removed they were burnt to s#@t. 80% of vibration is gone and 95 % of front vibration gone. I had all wheels balanced and checked for out of round but given every bush, control arm and ball joint is less almost new other than rear dif mounts which were left as is I think its now either bent wheels or prop shaft related - I've rebuilt all calipers, cleaned off dics and hubs before putting all back together which made a big difference to stopping but also did help for less vibration.

I am running monoblock II - are these prone to being out of shape - TBH some of the roads round here are morel like "off roading" so I hope its a out of round rim otherwise the search goes on and next is a replacement prop.

Dont get me wrong - car is now butter smooth at the steering wheel all the way up till very fast - I do feel a tiny bit of vibration but I do also have a wood steering wheel which translates every road inconstancy. Compared to how it was its like a new car but my test passenger says the ride in the back seats is the same - like being in a blender being made into milkshake.

I've read about the diif mount shim trick - I'll try this ( how hard is it to undo that rust old bolt ? ) but short of this and yet another rim check at a shop that gives a s#@t it has to be diff related, either balancing, bearings or alignment.

There is literally very little, if nothing, left to renew bush/ drivetrain / transmission / mount wise.

Any help is really appreciated - I have a 1200 mile drive starting in 48 hrs and I'd sooner do it without the vibration even if it means an all nighter to sort it !

I have access to a known good drive shaft within 24 hrs

2 questions - I already have the under engine plastic splash guards off.

1 how much work is it to get the propshaft off / on

2 whats the procedure to take prop apart - realign and mount back onto flex disks. - what if mine doesn't have any marks or will all factory fitted props have markings which I can use to check alignment


TIA
 
Whew...thank goodness for this...I was really waiting for this one.:D:D:D
 
Interesting thread - I'm fairly new to W210 ownership and find my car isn't quite as 'butter smooth' as I'd like it to be. Some good points for me to check. Thanks for sharing datripsta.
 
I can't help much with your problem, except to comment that it's surely easier to get all the wheels checked for being out of round before changing prop shafts etc.?
 
wheels checked by 2 wheel specialists - all ok. Both balanced the wheels after checking.

I did the shim trick plus changed the bushes on the mounting where the shim sits and its almost got it to zero vibration. When I removed shim I did notice the rear diff doghnuts - there are 2 not 1 and I supplied only 1 for the rear to the guys who changed mine. why they didn't tell me at the time I cant answer but the doughnut connected to the drive shaft at the diff end has a couple of tiny cracks and showing age - its not too bad but could well be the culprit of what remains. The trouble is EPC shows just one and I don't know if the part number is the same or not - I have no time to get under the car - local parts shops see only 1 doughnut but I moist definitely have 2 at the diff end. Can anyone help me with the paret number ?
 
Is the vibration there when cold or hot? Is it worse (or more noticeable) when hot?

I had a "similar" thing with mine.

New suspension entirely all round
New wheels
New tyres
New propshaft bearing & donuts
New discs and pads

Then the gearbox went (glycol issue). It had had a new radiator and gearbox flush a year before with the previous owner, but flushing the box after glycol contamination does not fix it-the damage has been done and will get worse.

Anyway, full gearbox rebuilt and hey presto, no more vibration :bannana:

This car has not been a cheap car so far :eek:
 
same all the time but its really small now. Its just after all the effort I want it perfect now.

Given the state of the fluid when I changed it I do have a fear of the gearbox being bad but really I don't think its TC shudder now. After the shim was removed I feel vibration on acceleration and deceleration but when cruising its almost unnoticeable. Vibration starts now at about 50 and above. Its 100% rear only I've had passengers come with me and sit in different spots.

I'm not sure the W210 CDI has the glycol issue due to different cooler for trans fluid.
 
Just got a call from Merc dealer - hes sees the same - EPC shows 2 flex discs but part A2104100647 could be the one I need. EPC shows not applicable for the car but mine defo has 3 dics - 1 at the front and 2 at the rear.
 

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