W210 220CDI Inlet manifold removal sequence

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Mervin the goat

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Mar 27, 2014
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E220 CDI W210 y2k
W210 220CDI Inlet manifold removal sequence

My apologies if this has been posted before, I could not find it and wanted to give something back to a forum (1 of 2) that has helped me greatly over the last 6 years of Merc ownership.

The CPS went faulty on my E220 CDI and I was unable to remove the E8 head bolt that holds it in place. Having previously cleaned and electrically shunted the EGR I knew how bad the inlet manifold would be gunked up so bit the bullet and decided to remove and clean the manifold at the same time as giving me clear access to replace the CPS.

The job was not as difficult as I thought it would be but would of been easier/quicker if I had the removal sequence beforehand. Tools comprised basic set of Torx sockets along with normal workshop tools.

- Remove the EGR valve
- Drain and remove the Power Steering Reservoir and set aside
- Unbolt the Fuel Filter and leave loose - no need to drain and remove
- Remove the metal plate / bracket that is attached to the inlet manifold via the 2 top front manifold torx bolts and attaches to the EGR at the front and EGR inlet cooler at the rear, 4 torx bolts in total
- Gently loosen and remove the rigid Fuel lines from each injector to the Common Fuel Rail
- Remove the 3 torx bolts that hold the Common Fuel Rail, no need to completely remove the rail
- Remove the 2 brackets that the Common Fuel Rail is attached to - 4 torx bolts in total
- Remove the Thermostat - 3 torx bolts and rubber tube underneath - I did not bother to drain down the system I just accepted the loss of fluid and re-filled on completion
- Remove the remaining Manifold torx bolts 2 top and 4 bottom and a single bolt at the rear of the inlet chamber attached to the EGR cooler. This is the most difficult part due to access to the bolts. Don't worry too much if you drop one at this stage you should be able to rescue it once the inlet is removed
- Unplug the CPS and the inlet flap motor connector. Remove the starter solenoid wire (you should disconnect the battery first) which runs down between the manifold inlets - Merc saved 1 pence here on wiring costs!
- Gently work the manifold out of the engine bay. You need to move the thermostat forwards and lift the common fuel rail a little whilst keeping the fuel filter out of the way.
- Once out loosely re-fitted the rigid fuel injection pipes to keep dirt from entering.

Re-assembly is a reversal of removal except for some reason I found it easier once I removed the oil filter and and covered it with a clean rag, replacing it once the manifold, thermostat and metal bracket / plate were back in place.
The bottom 4 manifold torx bolts can be held in place with a spot of adhesive in the manifold making assembly a lot easier. Just enough to hold them in place during re-assembly, the adhesive breaks when the socket goes on to tighten them.
No new gaskets were used, they all clean up and can be re-fitted. :thumb:

Removal without instructions took me 3 hours, refitting took me 2 hours.

I cleaned the manifold with de-greaser, acetone (no effect whatsoever) and wood burning stove / BBQ cleaner. I also took the opportunity to remove the butterflies and plug the holes with M12 bolts as described by others elsewhere. They were actually surprising tough to get out without damaging their housings.

Hope this helps someone in future, I suspect it would be similar on the W211 models.

Regards
 
Very helpful, many thanks.
 

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