w210 e320 cdi injector removal trouble

[blitz-diesel]

Hi, I started a thread a month or so ago. Im having fueling problem with said car.

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/136662-e320-cdi-fueling-problem.html

Drove it to a mate to remove the injectors, so i could get them tested and replace the seals. My engine was hot by the time i got to his. The first five came out no problem at all. The last was a B**CH! We could not remove it. So the plan was to put it all back to gether. Order an injector pull and a seat cutter. And attack next week.

Once it was all complete the car would not start. we kept going over everything we done just incase we missed something. In the end the AA had to come out to take me home

I removed the fuel pipe going to the fuel filter. Cranked it over and was expecting loads of diesel to squirt out. It was more like a dribble. So i dont thing the high pressure pump in getting enough fuel. This is confusing me because we only touch the injectors and the pipes going from the injectors to the rail.

Any ideas would be great. The injectors should be tested by next week.
Thanks lads

 

[blitz-diesel]

Oh and is it a good idea to buy the slightly thicker copper seal?

 

[Danny DeVito]

CDI must have all pipes closed and tight in order to build pressure. You don't bleed them you just crank until it starts. My car last time took about a minute and a half cranking before it fired. If it's only the first seat cutting then a standard washer is fine. I'm not sure how many cuts you'd get away with but usually the normal washer does the job.

 

[mersum1es]

Sorry to hear your problems, especially when I stated that there is no problem to remove injector if no black death...

Check out all injector connectors carefully, if weak contact somewhere, it won't start. Like said above, it may require many start attempts to fire up when fuel lines has been loosen.

 

[blitz-diesel]

Hey mersum1es its not your flaut. The first 5 came out with a gently pull. The one that was giving trouble has black tar everywhere. At least when the injector puller comes all injectors should be out real quick
So hopefully when i've replaced all copper seal it should be fine. To be honest i could hear like an air type leak coming from the top of the head, that i've never heard before. I'll let yours know how i get on next week.
Thanks lads

 

[Danny DeVito]

I found that twisting the injector first made it far easier to pull out and its easier to get pressure on to twist that to pull. After removing as much black stuff as possible first and vacuum around it before pulling out altogether. And don't use the house hoover though that can get cross wifeys due to the stink of it for weeks after lol !

 

[blitz-diesel]

i couldnt get it to move at all. my worry now that i wont beable to use the heat of the engine. but i see next week

 

[blitz-diesel]

hi today im trying to remove that injector. ive brought a puller set but dont know how to use it.

Do i still have to take apart the top of the injector?

 

[Danny DeVito]

I'm not familiar with these but you may get away with just using the hook piece at the top which the slide hammer screws into. Otherwise it looks like the injector top and insides have to be removed and insert one of the adapters top left and use maybe the bottom left to attach the hammer ? Can't be too many combinations. Be careful though with the little tiny pieces inside the injector

 

[mersum1es]

yep, like above. That 'fork' located in upper in the briefcase is attached same slot than fastening clamp of the injector. I can't see for sure if there is also threaded puller included (that silver part on the up right maybe), it is attached instead of the injector solenoid (thread). And don't loose those tiny parts, second warning!

 

[blitz-diesel]

I've took the injectors to be tested. he has just phoned saying 4 of them are slightly below spec. if he rebuilds them it might not fix my problem. I don't what do to.

 

[renault12ts]

So, you were able to remove the injector with the kit? How much did it cost?

 

[blitz-diesel]

I think £29 from eBay.

 

[blitz-diesel]

The reading from the back leakage test are :
6.8
7.66
9.66
8.41
7.03
6.8
specification 15.0 plus
border line 8.0 plus.
the man a the injector place thinks this is not my problem. He has given me a small o ring for the sensor at the front of the fuel rail. he said he have seen these to fail. Will try have a look at that sensor in the morning.

Put all injectors back in. the one that was hard to get out is leaking. Im going to have to get a air gun tomorrow and try clean and to recut the seat again. But the car did fire up after a while cranking.

 

[whitefang]

hi all, if this is a old topic, then sorry to bring it back up.

i have a thread open about the injectors, but was looking threw some of the others, i found this 1 intresting..

i have the w211 320 cdi monster. haha...i love her power, its like storm in the film xmen, lovely looking but with powers that are amazing...but any way...

i got a injector puller tool coming, its the same as the 1 that blitz-diesel shows.

so is the only way of using this unit as discribed by you mersum1es.?

& how did you get on with the using the tool blitz-diesel.?

im a mechanic, now days i just do the familys cars (wife's, son, daughter, there partners cars.. seldom il do car for few quid.)
i no my way around the cars, but i have my weakness.. w211 injectors is 1 , along with few others. (never done before).

cheers all.

o...quick other little thing, the copper washer / seal, is it tapper going onto the engine.?

cheers...........

 

[mersum1es]

I would use fork puller, it's strongest part of the injector anyway... and you need to clean up injector around to get it out.

I cannot confirm are those threaded parts in picture are suitable for job (I don't have kit of my own), but in general one adapter fits to solenoid thread (minimum amount of parts required to disassembled, but thread is fine tough larger diameter) and another to inside the injector body (more parts out plus little bit special tool needed to detach the nut where adapter goes).

Be sure engine is hot when starting the job!

 

[themorg]

hiya pal
don't no whether you got sorted yet ,but try a little easy start , i had same problem not starting on the key just cranking over ,give it a shot of easy start and it fired up,turned out to be i had 2 injectors not spilling of properly ,so she was,nt holding fuel pressure ,hope this helps,ste

 

[Martyn_n]

Rather start a new thread (Which I may still fall back on) I thought I'd add to this resurrected one.
This morning I decided to sort the two injectors on my ML270 that appear to have been leaking. I have bought all the right tools and parts for the job so was expecting it to be a doddle; how wrong could I be.
The alarm bells started to ring when I found that the existing retaining bolts were hex and not torx, when I removed the first one it became evident that someone has threaded the head and instead of helicoiling it (as Olly recommends in his "excellent how to") they have drilled it out and tapped it for an M6 bolt.
The front injector came out easy enough so I've recut the seat and fitted a new seal but unfortunately I cannot use the correct M5? stretch bolts to ensure that I have the correct tension on the fork that holds the injector in place.
I have no idea what sort of torque I should set the bolt to as it is not a stretch type bolt so the xNm plus X degrees is irrelevant as there is no stretch and the thread pitch is different. I have done it up as tight as I dare but now I am worried I have a big failure waiting to happen.
I'm supposed to be using the car to tow our caravan touring around France in three weeks and I intend to take tools with me and nip the bolts up a few times en-route, does anyone think that this is adequate to fend off failure?

Cheers,

Martyn

Edit; the second injector wouldn't budge even with a huge slide hammer so I'm not worried about that popping out regardless of the type of bolt holding it down!!

 

[bob6600]

Original are M6 so it can't have been tapped out to M6. Mine was repaired badly in the past and has been drilled to an M10, for which I bought a hex-headed bolt and it has not failed in around 3 years. Maybe not ideal but it will hold if done correctly.

I did mine (again) earlier this year and tightened it until it felt secure (sorry I know this doesnt help)