W210/E320CDi Cruise Control failure

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BigYin

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Joined
Mar 30, 2004
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3
The cruise control became intermittent over a period of a few weeks and now won't work at all.

I've learned through the forums and the web that a common cause is the ABS speed sensors on the wheels stopping working as they pick up magnetised rubbish.

I want to clean the sensors before paying a garage £££ to sort it, so can anyone help with more info?

Which wheels have the sensors, front, back or both?

I think they are located on the inboard side of the brake caliper, near the leading edge. Can anyone confirm this?

What's the best cleaning method?

Is it best to detach the sensor for cleaning or clean in situ?

I think the sensor is fixed with allen screws. Does anyone know the size?


Any other info or leads would be much appreciated.
 
Could be the control stork itself. Just had to replace mine on a W210. A common component failure on W210s, apparently.
 
If your ABS sensors were failing to the degree where Cruise control is inoperative, then you'd be getting ABS / ESP warning lights up too, so I believe you can rule those out as a cause.

The dash control stalk does sound likely though.

Ian.
 
Thanks for the constructive inputs, Guys.

Just to confirm, I'm not getting ABS/ESP warning lights.

Assuming it's the control stalk, is replacement a DIY job? (I'm a retired electronics engineer and am happy to tackle most car-related work.) Are there any 'gotchas' to be aware of?

TIA for any more info.
 
stalk is very easy to replace!
 
It's fixed!!!, and in a most unexpected way.

It's fixed!!!, and in a most unexpected way.

Since the cold weather early this year, the battery has not been holding charge and I've been nursing it by frequent trickle-charging until I had the opportunity to change it. I tried the cruise control after the change and it worked perfectly and has continued to do so for the thousand or so miles since the battery change.

I can only assume that the cruise control electrics are rather voltage-sensitive, and that the bad battery was producing a lower output voltage than normal. The only corroborating evidence I can offer is that the engine cranks more vigorously when cold started at the same temperature as before.

So guys & gals, if your cruise control stops working properly, check that your battery is good.
 
Alternatively, perhaps it simply enjoyed having the power removed for a while during the swap...

Glad it's sorted.

Ian.
 
Hi guys,
Strangely enough last week when i was using cruise control, i have 2 malfunctions reported on the dash, something along the line ABS and ESP fault and ask me to visit workshop.
Anyway, i stopped the car and restart it, the malfunctions weren't there anymore!
I am confused now.

IANT,
If your ABS sensors were failing to the degree where Cruise control is inoperative, then you'd be getting ABS / ESP warning lights up too
Should i bring it to workshop or just leave it as it is?
Any advices/comments are welcome.
Thanks
Eric
 
MyFirstMerc said:
Strangely enough last week when i was using cruise control, i have 2 malfunctions reported on the dash, something along the line ABS and ESP fault and ask me to visit workshop.
Anyway, i stopped the car and restart it, the malfunctions weren't there anymore!
That sounds like one of the sensors or the brake switch is giving up I'm afraid! The brake switch failed on my previous w202 and it produced warning lights for BAS/ASR, ABS and the cruise control stopped working.
 
MyFirstMerc said:
Hi guys,
Strangely enough last week when i was using cruise control, i have 2 malfunctions reported on the dash, something along the line ABS and ESP fault and ask me to visit workshop.
Anyway, i stopped the car and restart it, the malfunctions weren't there anymore!
I am confused now.

IANT,

Should i bring it to workshop or just leave it as it is?
Any advices/comments are welcome.
Thanks
Eric

I agree with Shude, the brake switch failed on my E210 and it had the same effect. See if your brake lights are working, or is it intermittent?
 
biggest failt is incorrect idle setting/faulty iac/dirty throttle body/incorect setting of the cable, if the reves are pitchy up and down the susspect the idle air control valve "iacv"
 
teky said:
biggest failt is incorrect idle setting/faulty iac/dirty throttle body/incorect setting of the cable, if the reves are pitchy up and down the susspect the idle air control valve "iacv"

:confused: :confused: Whatever your on I want some. :confused: :confused:

What has this to do with Cruise control and ABS/ESP fault. :confused:
 
LOL @ Brian ;)

In general I would not go to the garage on the first activation of a fault lamp on the dashboard, simpley because all software (like it or not) finds a way to go wrong some time and a simple reset usually works wonders. If the fault recurs then it really should be attended to.

Whan I had my C250 the EDC lamp came on during the test drive and limited the power available for about 10 seconds, then went out and never came back on in all the time I owned the car. No dealer visit necessary (they'll be gutted to hear that I'm sure ;))

Ian.
 
Brian WH said:
See if your brake lights are working, or is it intermittent?

The cruise control is working fine and brake lights are okay when i tested them yesterday. Everything seemed normal. Will take Ian advise and leave it as it is for the time being. Maybe mention to the dealer when the B service is due next month as the car is 20 months old and still under warranty.

Thanks alot everyone.
Eric
 

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