W210 live wire ?

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bennesspipers

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
1,539
Location
boston,lincs
Car
'95 W202 C220 Elegance saloon & 2001 C240 V6 Sport Estate
I need to find a live (All the time) cable under the bonnet of my W210. Anyone know where there is one ? Will need to know the cable colour(s) of course.
 
Could you explain your application? The fuse box with an appropriate fuse would be the best approach.
 
I'm installing pos & neg terminals under the front of car so that if i ever get a flat battery, all i'll have to do is connect a battery charger to these terminals & i'll be able to get in the car even if the fob isnt working. Seen & heard of many MB owners who have been unable to get in their own cars. Already done my C class, but cant find a connection to use on the E.
 
Sorry, i put that wrong. Instead of 'even if key fob isnt working' read ' even if key wont work manually
 
What about the big jump start post under the bonnet:D

Nice big earth point right next to pos post as well, so should be a doddle, w203 same.



Lynall
 
Last edited:
The ground/negative post is attached to the inner wing right in front of it:)
 
Eh ? Under that box lid on mine is a pipe connection , i assumed it was for the air-con ?
 
It should be a brass coloured tube. The reason it has a red cross on top of the cover is because it is the Positive/Live terminal.
 
I cant check that till tomorrow,but yes, it is a brass tube
 
yes, there is a brass tube, i don't if you charge from there, but thats where you jump it from. if you have a look in your hand book. if your battery does go flat why not use the key to open the drivers door
 
Cos at the mo the keys for my E class dont fit the door & it wont even enter the boot lock. My C class has only got 1 key. Even when iv got keys & locks that fit i shant be really happy because its obviously an ongoing problem on MB's with locks sticking,& batteries going flat for no reason,even on much newer cars than mine.
 
Cos at the mo the keys for my E class dont fit the door & it wont even enter the boot lock. My C class has only got 1 key. Even when iv got keys & locks that fit i shant be really happy because its obviously an ongoing problem on MB's with locks sticking,& batteries going flat for no reason,even on much newer cars than mine.

I don't think that is exactly accurate. There is always a reason if the battery goes flat, sometimes it is difficult to find (usually easy to fix). But I believe you mean "this happens rather frequently" which I agree.

The locks work OK in all of my cars, they have to be serviced (lubricated). But if you don't have the right key, service would not help unless you change the locks or if you order a new metal key to match the current locks.

Having the charger wires installed could be a good idea anyway, just be sure to install a fuse (large enough to handle your charger current) if you pick up power from a jump start pole or anything similar.
 
Never tried the door key on mine might give it a try maybe ish:D.

What are you using to finish the cables at the free end?



Lynall
 
Lynall & EDZ649, yes you're right, & it is live (tested), minor detail, mine's not got a red cross on it. I'v now removed the plastic box revealing the cables below it, JOB SORTED & iv just bought a model of my C class on e-bay for £5.70 ! Thanks Guys
 
Lynall, on my C, I'v mounted a mini exhaust bobbin to the bottom of the rad carrier, then fixed the live connection to the lower (insulated) stud. On my E, drilled 2 holes through the plastic tray (under rad) then 1 cable to this post,& the other cable to a body hole tween rad & inner h/lamp.
 
Regarding the locks, it is unlikely that you have the wrong key, most people jump to the conclusion that the must have the wrong key if it won’t work in two of the cars lock, seizure of the lock barrel is very common simply because of a lack of usage of the key in the lock. The use of key fobs means it is a rare event that the key is ever put into the lock.
Occasional oiling and working the key in the lock is the best prevention of seizure of the lock barrel.

The best way to free the boot lock is with the boot in the fully open position, this allows the penetrating oil to better reach the levers and mechanisms of the lock barrel.
Put the straw of the penetrating oil can inside the lock and flood it with oil. Get a ladies hair pin and open it out and work one end into the lock, pushing up and down as you work it all the way into the lock barrel, allow time for the oil to penetrate, working the hair pin will eventually free the lock and allow the key blade to enter the barrel. The hair pin is much smaller than the key blade so it can be worked all the way into the lock barrel.

The door lock can be treated in the same way and if necessary can be easily removed from the door to aid flooding with penetrating oil.

Dec
 
Thanx for that Dec,in good time i will try all that, but, i am suspicious that the door handle has been changed, & that the boot lock might have a broken key in it ! quite how im gonna prove that (let alone remove it) im not sure yet.
 
I would follow the seized lock theory first as that is the most likely cause of the problem, and requires the least amount of effort from yourself, a broken key is less likely unless you fail to insert a hairpin into the lock to the same depth that the key would go, i.e. the length of the key blade.

It can be a slow process freeing up a lock that perhaps hasn’t had a key in it for several years. A daily drenching with WD40 and a bit of a wiggle might free it up over several? days.

Dec
 

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