W210 rust (Never)

[dazzler1976]

Yo,

I was planning on tackling the rust on the car myself, more to stop it spreading, than a permamnent fix.Then in the future getting it done properly. As car nearly passed MOT got some spare cash that I had put aside just incase. All four arches and boot button area need attention, not that bad but its starting. Anyone got anyideas on how much this would cost to get repaired by a professional?

Merci

 

[wemorgan]

I think I've read it costs typically £150 per wheel arch to repair at a body shop (not MB dealer)

 

[johnsco]

My W210 E300TD is just the same.
The winter has not been kind.

Mrs J's is a little less bad (but not much)

 

[Phil Thomas]

Have you tried for a goodwill repair? Mine has a Mobilo warranty, supposedly 30 years. If MB tell you it is from the outside in, and therefore not covered, tell them they are talking rubbish. Look at various web sites and see how others fared. Have the front suspension checked too: mine was fixed free after much hassle. The MB section that deals with this likes photos taken before the repair. In fact they insist! Dealers will not volunteer goodwill repairs: you may have to be unpleasant. Avoid the Stockport dealership at all costs. Other local dealerships have indicated that my bad experiences were not unusual.

 

[dazzler1976]

The car has been regularly serviced but recently and before I bought it, it had been serviced at independent garages. Does that not invalidate the bodywork warranty?

 

[johnsco]

It's really too late to try this with my E300TD.
It's never been main-dealer serviced.
The owner before me (who is a good independent garage owner, and a good friend) should really have taken this up with MB, as the problem's been there for some time.
I also do my own service work.
I do check the structural parts of the front suspension, as I know there are "issues".
Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet

Mrs. J's was main-dealer serviced, and some work has clearly been done on the wheel arches ... Presumably by the main dealer.

Johnsco

 

[dazzler1976]

It's really too late to try this with my E300TD.
It's never been main-dealer serviced.
The owner before me (who is a good independent garage owner, and a good friend) should really have taken this up with MB, as the problem's been there for some time.
I also do my own service work.
I do check the structural parts of the front suspension, as I know there are "issues".
Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet

Mrs. J's was main-dealer serviced, and some work has clearly been done on the wheel arches ... Presumably by the main dealer.

Johnsco

I was considering doing my own service work on the car as I dont plan on selling it, are there any major difficulties? or special tools required? Did you manage to get a service manual for yours? I serviced both my previous mondeos and my wifes MX-5 as they were/are pretty straightforward. Dont know why but the merc intimidates me, lol.

Derek

 

[johnsco]

Hi Derek
Doing the basics on these cars is not difficult.
Oil changes, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, cabin filter are the regular items.
The transmissions were supposed to be "sealed for life", but a fluid-change and filter change is certainly necessary at around 100,000 miles and perhaps every 50,000 miles thereafter. Not beyond anyone who is reasonably-competent.
Differential lube change - Again at around 100,000 miles - Not difficult.

I'm just about to change the brake pads and discs on one of the cars.
Again - I'm not expecting any disasters - But you do need to know the tricks of these jobs.

Yes - You will need some special tools for some jobs.
Members of this forum will be able to steer you in the right direction.

Yes - Some of the jobs are not-for-the-faint-hearted.
It all depends how far you want to go.

The good thing is that there are always people here to ask - - Some of whom share their knowledge very generously.
I've learned a lot from this forum.
I'm still learning here every day.

I don't have a manual for my car.
They are often not available for Mercedes models.

I was warned off a few years ago from getting an MB by an MB mechanic friend of mine.
"Not a car for a do-it-yourself man" were his cautionary words.

We had a Type 126 380SE for 8 years and a Type 124 230TE for a short time prior to these E300TDs.
I needed help once with the 380SE.
Other than that, I've generally found my way round OK.

Be adventurous ... But - Be safe.
Cheers
Johnsco

 

[pete vee rod]

Recently did the bottom ball joints, a much, much easier job than on the BMW 325. Today I did the link arms on the anti roll bar, fairly straight forward [except I had to buy a set of torques,didnt know what size, doh!] and finally erradicated the clonking.
So overall I`m pretty happy about the ease of maintenance so far.

 

[Smiley]

You should not be intimidated by the MB. I had mine serviced for years by MB - similar feelings to you I guess back then. Then I discovered it was not difficult and do most things myself. They are actually good to work on because everything is solid and well put together. There are a few PITA jobs like rear wheel bearings on my 124 - the n/s one went at about 180k miles so I had that done by an indi.
Otherwise get stuck in - the diesels are especially easy to service - not much more than change the oil + filter check the brakes then bigger services the other stuff like ATF, fuel filtet etc. The service reqts are all in your handbook and you will get help on here as someone has already said.

 

[johnsco]

There were only two jobs that beat me on the 380SE (Type 126) in 8 years.
One was pressing in a replacement bottom ball joint.
I knocked the old one out OK, but pressing the new one in was a job was my local indie.
I took the suspension leg to him.
Did in in 10 minutes at NO CHARGE !!

The other job was a rear wheel bearing which came up as an advisory at MOT for excessive end-float.
A year later, it was exactly the same, so we left it.
It certainly wasn't going to fail, and would have been a pig to do.

I agree that the cars are good to work on.
They are generally well-engineered, and things do fit (unlike some cars I have worked on)

The second of our two E300TDs, we bought from a dealer with a FMBSH.
I must say that some of the things I have found have not greatly impressed me.
Evidence of one or two scruffy and bodged jobs.
Also a couple of things not attended to that really should have been done.
Also a pack of service bills which always seem to be between £600 and £900.
I look at the bills, and I seem to see a lot of padding there, but rarely much of substance.
When you do the jobs yourself, you have the time to take that bit of extra care.
You know that the work has actually been done correctly.
The main thing is to ensure that any work done on safety-critical systems is done correctly ... Brakes, steering, suspension ... Sounds obvious.
Cheers
Johnsco

 

[normanr]

I think most of the forum members will agree the electrical problems are the worst to get your head round nowdays due to the equipment needed to test it out and we have had a lot of problems on the forum that the main dealers have struggled with.

 

[Smiley]

There were only two jobs that beat me on the 380SE (Type 126) in 8 years.
One was pressing in a replacement bottom ball joint.
I knocked the old one out OK, but pressing the new one in was a job was my local indie.
I took the suspension leg to him.
Did in in 10 minutes at NO CHARGE !!

The other job was a rear wheel bearing which came up as an advisory at MOT for excessive end-float.
A year later, it was exactly the same, so we left it.
It certainly wasn't going to fail, and would have been a pig to do.

I agree that the cars are good to work on.
They are generally well-engineered, and things do fit (unlike some cars I have worked on)

The second of our two E300TDs, we bought from a dealer with a FMBSH.
I must say that some of the things I have found have not greatly impressed me.
Evidence of one or two scruffy and bodged jobs.
Also a couple of things not attended to that really should have been done.
Also a pack of service bills which always seem to be between £600 and £900.
I look at the bills, and I seem to see a lot of padding there, but rarely much of substance.
When you do the jobs yourself, you have the time to take that bit of extra care.
You know that the work has actually been done correctly.
The main thing is to ensure that any work done on safety-critical systems is done correctly ... Brakes, steering, suspension ... Sounds obvious.
Cheers
Johnsco

Entirely agree - the bills were always several hundred pounds and then you sit back and think "what did they REALLY do?" - and most times it was oil and filter change + a couple of extras like air filter (3-4 mins) or fuel filter (20mins) or brakes (bit longer but not hard).

 

[Phil Thomas]

No, the table won't go in!

 

[johnsco]

Phil
I'm interested, if you can get it to work

John

 

[maddog]

Well and truly hijacked now

 

[Phil Thomas]

John,

No, I can't get it to work. I can email it if you wish. It makes grim reading! I tried to do it without the table, but have had two power cuts lasting in total 8 hours. I nearly finished it a few minutes ago, but when I pressed 'post' it said I was disconnected! It disappeared of course.

The 210 is a disaster, but the 500 SE (in SA) is totally reliable. So is the Disco (also here), and the Xantia is arguably much better in every way than the 210, which is a super car except for the rot and reliability, and the mercedes attitude. But then the merc cost 4 times the price (OK, 3 times plus!)

Phil

Maddog,

Sorry! Actually the service history says something about the corrosion problems, so is relevant. The required inspections were not done.

Phil

 

[Smiley]

Phil,
I suspect that what you have been trying to show is that there are clearly laid out servicing recommendations that have not been followed by a series of main dealers. And that it cost a small fortune.

 

[johnsco]

Phil
Not sure how it works.
Are you able to PM me on this forum ?
If not - Can I PM you with my e-mail address ?

Thanks
John

EDIT ... JUST CHECKED ... As far as I can see, my PM is enabled.

 

[jrggino]

Rust

[my 1999 e300td had the same problem, i spent £800 5 months ago, i just noticed its starting to come through again, sad really what a let down.
Its difficult to know how good a job has been done till latter.]Yo,

I was planning on tackling the rust on the car myself, more to stop it spreading, than a permamnent fix.Then in the future getting it done properly. As car nearly passed MOT got some spare cash that I had put aside just incase. All four arches and boot button area need attention, not that bad but its starting. Anyone got anyideas on how much this would cost to get repaired by a professional?

Merci[/QUOTE]