W210 Wheel Alignment

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StevenN

Active Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Messages
437
Location
Nottingham
Car
E220 CDI 2002 W210 Auto
Just thought I would pass on some info.

I was getting some wheel wobble at about 60-65mph
Thinking the wheels just needed balancing I kept putting it off.

After taking the front wheels off to gain access to the bumper I noticed that one tyre was badly worn on the inside edge.
Both tyres had about a years wear left on them but the worn tyre was dangerous.

End result.

2 new tyres and a full laser wheel alignment.

I had the alignment done at a place in Basford Nottingham that has a Hunter system.
Full check and just the fronts needed adjusting 30mins. £40.80.
icon_biggrin.gif


Very pleased at the cost just a shame I didn't spot the danger before I needed new rubber.

Steve
 
I hope its as simple as that Steve.

This severe wear on the inside of a front tyre is typical of a w210. And usually seems to involve more than a mere alignment. Usually camber bolts are required.

Just keep a very very close eye on the wear of your new tyres to make sure all is in fact fixed.
 
I had looked for posts on alignment and some mentioned fitting camber adjustment bolts.
The guy at the workshop said that everything was fine on that score.
He did use a spring loaded bar to keep tension on the wheels while he adjusted them.
He said that it was recommended practice on MB's.
Allignment is all they do so I figure they know what to do.

We will see???????????
 
Here is an interesting theory.

As the front suspension settles with age and its spring related geometry changes, the vehicle will squat slightly lower than when new and also flex more often during normal driving into a spring compression range not as often frequented when all is tight and new.

If this were the case and the car began to sit lower as it aged, would the design geometry of the wheel 'splaying out' at the bottom under compression (done for roadholding) put more stress on the inner edge of the tyre? (this is the wear pattern I have personally seen most) This could explain why it appears on one side some times and not the other. Obviously not attributed to tracking, as there would be equal wear on both sides of the vehicle, but maybe more attributed to a weak spring saggy bottom issue! (NS tyre inner wear more than OS anyone?)

Does that hold water?

Steve
 
Here is an interesting theory.

As the front suspension settles with age and its spring related geometry changes, the vehicle will squat slightly lower than when new and also flex more often during normal driving into a spring compression range not as often frequented when all is tight and new.

If this were the case and the car began to sit lower as it aged, would the design geometry of the wheel 'splaying out' at the bottom under compression (done for roadholding) put more stress on the inner edge of the tyre? (this is the wear pattern I have personally seen most) This could explain why it appears on one side some times and not the other. Obviously not attributed to tracking, as there would be equal wear on both sides of the vehicle, but maybe more attributed to a weak spring saggy bottom issue! (NS tyre inner wear more than OS anyone?)

Does that hold water?

Steve

Probably not...I had new springs fitted, and the new tyres fitted at the same time, wore on the insides.
 
Interesting, Oh well - worth the muse.... perhaps even new springs dont correct the wrenching forces that often reposition the rust prone perches further up in the arch ! :) :)
 
Here is an interesting theory.

As the front suspension settles with age and its spring related geometry changes, the vehicle will squat slightly lower than when new and also flex more often during normal driving into a spring compression range not as often frequented when all is tight and new.

If this were the case and the car began to sit lower as it aged, would the design geometry of the wheel 'splaying out' at the bottom under compression (done for roadholding) put more stress on the inner edge of the tyre? (this is the wear pattern I have personally seen most) This could explain why it appears on one side some times and not the other. Obviously not attributed to tracking, as there would be equal wear on both sides of the vehicle, but maybe more attributed to a weak spring saggy bottom issue! (NS tyre inner wear more than OS anyone?)

Does that hold water?

Steve

Ride height is a major factor toward tyre wear and actual geometry settings. The MB requires a Romess tool to measure the perpendicular angle of the front lower control arm and the drive shafts. This measurement opens a specific geometric field for that ride height.

For example a ride height of -4.5 degrees applies a front camber position of -2 degrees 16', whereas if the measurement was -1 degree 3' the camber target position would be -1 degree 3'.
 
Ride height is a major factor toward tyre wear and actual geometry settings. The MB requires a Romess tool to measure the perpendicular angle of the front lower control arm and the drive shafts. This measurement opens a specific geometric field for that ride height.

For example a ride height of -4.5 degrees applies a front camber position of -2 degrees 16', whereas if the measurement was -1 degree 3' the camber target position would be -1 degree 3'.

Great explanation for those in the know, but unfortunately rocket science for me :eek: :crazy::D
 
On a non-rocket-science level ... Wear on the inner edge of tyres on a 210 is often the result of worn bushes on the lower suspension arm pivot bolt.
I've experienced it not so long ago for this reason.
 
Basically it's a progressive geometric table that allows the positions to be correctly set each cars ride height.
 
I guess when I fine tune the height of my c43 with the new KW suspension currently being installed, the alignment will be last thing to do on the list :)
 
Basically it's a progressive geometric table that allows the positions to be correctly set each cars ride height.

Perfectly clear now :dk:

I took my car to wheels-inmotion earlier this year, the car has never been the same since!

Even when I let go of the steering wheel the damn things goes straight down the road and as for tyre wear I used to look forward to changing my tyres regularly as I got to try out different brands every couple of months when the tyres wore prematurely. I still have the same set and there is still 5mm spread evenly across the width :confused:
 
On a non-rocket-science level ... Wear on the inner edge of tyres on a 210 is often the result of worn bushes on the lower suspension arm pivot bolt.
I've experienced it not so long ago for this reason.


+1. New lower bushes required. Bolts are non adjustable. :thumb:
 
easy way to check tracking check the temperature of of the tread and toe it toward the hotside until it is evened out 1/4 turn at a time. I made a post on this a few years back which says how to get the steering wheel centred. Had to replace bottom swivels recenlty and the same routine has worked again.

And for Johnsco, yes rusty hammerited love it
 
Last edited:
Car: E55 AMG 2001

Just been to FTC in Feltham to sort out the tracking as the front tyres seem to have worn out on the inside prematurely....So new Conti's fitted i headed to FTC, who have the Hunter laser alingnment system....

The rear Toe was out and they adjusted this, the front Toe was out as well and they attended to this also....


BUT the front camber was out and they said they were unable to do this as it is a camber bolt system...

The Front Left reading is -1.48' and the Front Right reading is -2.12', hence the need to get this done...

What is the best way to go about this?..

Go MB and get the bolts and then get someone to fit them and then go to FTC again!? or should I change the lower arm bushes, change them and then go FTC?

Just want the least amount of faffing about and the most cost effective way around this.... Having just spent £300 on tyres £63 at FTC and to learn that the main problem of the inside wearing out hasnt even been resolved.!..
 
Check the ride height is ok then fit the bolts and get it setup.
 

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