W211 E320 CDI - P0244 Turbo Wastegate Solenoid

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

manoffunk

New Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2016
Messages
8
Car
e320cdi
Firstly, hello everyone - and sorry for the abrupt joining of these threads.

Having seen a few similar posts I thought I'd see if anyone can help? I have a 2006 E320 CDI, which has been absolutely spot on. It has now unfortunately, thrown up the above error and is not a happy budgie.

Now all search results I've seen have not revealed any actual fixes. Am I looking at a new/recon turbo here, or is this something that is repairable?

Presuming it IS the w/g solenoid, which is electronic and accessible - has anyone had the same issue and/or successes?

As expected, one can get a new Turbo from EuroCarParts for the usual German price tag, or something which looks exactly the same for half the price with an exchange surcharge.

I've also found various MB specialists with warranted used ones.......

I'm just outside of Leicester, and have provisionally booked in a with a new MB Indy - but am not overly confident. Any thoughts or advice very much appreciated! I'm booked in for diagnostics on Monday morn, but that's not to say they will actually do anything once diagnosed, so we shall see.....


Best regards, Dave
 
I believe it is turbo controller box which is playing up. Not sold separately but lotsa 2nd hand available in ebay. Do you have inline or v engine?
 
Thanks for the reply mersum1es, it is the V engine. It did strike me as odd when it went (as it has been running great only seconds before).....

However, yes I've found those on EBay, so not so frightening - it would appear that the connector sits at the bottom of the installation, closest to the heat source, and also in line of any oil residue, of which there is some, but not much. I'll clean that up and see if I can get to the plug to check that contacts are good.


Best regards, Dave
 
Hi I got the same car and had similar problems, I eventually replaced the turbo actuator found on eBay, cost approx 180 as a recon unit and an exchange it's simple to replace with 4 bolts and a plug then all was good
Hope this helps
 
Thanks 837richardt, it's in with an independant Merc dealer today, so will see what pearls of wisdom they come up with..........I suspect I'll be doing just what you have suggested.....
 
Mine is playing up again constantly in limp mode, I'm looking at the wiring loom which goes under the turbo again as this was the cause in the first place,
 
A friend of mine also bought a actuator from ebay and all was good after fitting, his was a 3.0 cdi v6 s211
 
I understood that the reason MB don`t sell them separate was because each actuator is set up for each turbo and engine spec. etc.

Although some have used the ebay ones they will not give the same performance as the one supplied with the turbo or even which ECU map is on the car!

When the actuators are repaired by return of post by some companies only the mechanical parts are renewed and not the software within which to me is the best way of sorting the error code out and still get max. performance.

Any others have more info ?
 
I understood that the reason MB don`t sell them separate was because each actuator is set up for each turbo and engine spec. etc.

Although some have used the ebay ones they will not give the same performance as the one supplied with the turbo or even which ECU map is on the car!

When the actuators are repaired by return of post by some companies only the mechanical parts are renewed and not the software within which to me is the best way of sorting the error code out and still get max. performance.

Any others have more info ?

I agree entirely with this information above and for that reason alone our company will only repair the customers original Actuator.

Alfie
 
Surly if the refurb actuator engine size and spec eg 3.0 v6 in a e280 is the same as what its going tobe fitted to there shouldnt be a issue?

We did have a look inside his actuator and it has a nylon gear and circuit board. They are not coded to the car so i cant see there being any issue. My friends car performs better if anything to what it was before.

I may of course be incorrect i dont know.
 
Premier diesel in Leicester refurbish these for £90 in 24hr turn around. I did mine last year,very easy to take off and replace and does NOT need to be recoded
 
Premier diesel in Leicester refurbish these for £90 in 24hr turn around. I did mine last year,very easy to take off and replace and does NOT need to be recoded
t-dawg1, that's good to know - see next post, as I might have to visit later....
 
Just a quick update:

Took car in last Monday to independant Mercedes specialist in Leicester, and was told that the turbo needed to be replaced for a reconditioned unit. This was done, and car returned on Friday - only to find that in fact the problem is still there.

Car was not road tested due to some very dodgy tyres (which I hadn't noticed (shame on me)). Tyres replaced (you try getting tyres locally overnight) - and car back in today.

My ODBII reader clearly shows the return of P0244, but now worryingly - P2015 - intage manifold runner position sensor/switch circuit range/performance.....

This is a big blow -although I do suspect as someone has mentioned previously, that wiring could be the problem here (and may have been all along). Apparently the turbo was "inspected", and was deemed to have a "stuck wastegate". I can believe that, but it clearly wasn't the only problem.....

Also the actuator as previous posts state, is indeed a worm gear, eletronically controlled unit. It is quite basic, and I believe that the ECU would need to train itself to the position of the motor. Once that has happened, it will be self governing. So in theory these are interchangeable. I believe the unit is made by Valeo? There are youtube videos of rebuild companies doing their thing, and it's not a difficult job - you just need the parts, which is where the monopoly is.

Oh well, wish me luck - am a few pounds in the hole at the moment, so am hoping this is going to be the last of it for a while.....

Thanks everyone for your words of wisdom so far - it has been very helpful!
 
Surly if the refurb actuator engine size and spec eg 3.0 v6 in a e280 is the same as what its going tobe fitted to there shouldnt be a issue?

We did have a look inside his actuator and it has a nylon gear and circuit board. They are not coded to the car so i cant see there being any issue. My friends car performs better if anything to what it was before.

I may of course be incorrect i dont know.

Thing is Gav remember the Volvo`s T5 they could run forever but were very forgiving on worn parts and one would not know when something was worn as it wears at a slow rate which is not noticeable.

However when something packs right up and is replaced that is when one realises how bad the part was before.

Just like my 7g box just revived with the whole new Valve Electroplate it was in the wrong gear it should be in but still was quick and drove faultess except once a year went tit`s up and stuck in 2nd gear!......it still kicked down when i wanted it too but it was overreacting all the time with too many changes.

Now it is the correct gear every time despite what i want to do with less gear changes but better performance.

I suppose that is what is meant by speed sensor ....lol... in the correct gear according to the speed?...except of course when no load cruising it is in the higher gear.
 
Last edited:
These thing are kinda chained - turbo, inlet manifold and EGR... fault in any of them may trigger a fault code also somewhere else, and universal readers cannot always pinpoint it, all are more or less boost related.

Harness is one culprit yes, but also often turbo leaks oil on manifold swirl flap motor which damages it as well. Is you car limp mode all the time now? See fuses, often faults above blow a fuse too.
 
Surly if the refurb actuator engine size and spec eg 3.0 v6 in a e280 is the same as what its going tobe fitted to there shouldnt be a issue?

We did have a look inside his actuator and it has a nylon gear and circuit board. They are not coded to the car so i cant see there being any issue. My friends car performs better if anything to what it was before.

I may of course be incorrect i dont know.

We have repaired many of these Hella /Garrett Electronic Actuators and can tell you that the nylon worm drive gear has only ever failed when the Turbo Vanes have jammed due to carbon build up as this puts load on the worm gear and also the motor and although rare can strip the drive or burn out the motor.

The circuit board also has its own problems that cause it to fail to move the Vanes intermittently which will flag up a MIL and there is also the Sensor control ring failure. so you see they are not just a simple unit in fact they are pretty complex.

I would also like to add that the components within the actuator are static sensitive devices and therefore can be damaged by touching them without static precautions being taken.


The 1st thing to do prior to sending the Actuator away for repair is to remove the Actuator rod from the Turbo and make sure the Vanes move freely back and forth this will ensure that the fault lays within the Actuator and not the Turbo itself.

Never attempt to move the Actuator rod whilst its connected to the Actuator or damage to the drive gear will result.

Alfie
 
I don't seem to be having a good run of luck with all this, but I'll soldier on. Intake manifold is not good - the motor was damaged, so both being replaced.
 
Last edited:
mersum1es, this seems to be exactly what has happened with mine. Oil does appear to have leaked (there's an oil feed pipe which is apparently a known protagonist, and should be replaced with aluminium pipe if it does) - the turbo wastegate was stuck, and all sorts of horrors with the inlet manifold.

I have seen the diagram and descriptions of regular faults with that, and it seems to be a path well trodden.

Wish me luck, as I'll be busking to pay for this lot, at this rate! :-(
 
I believe it is turbo controller box which is playing up. Not sold separately but lotsa 2nd hand available in ebay. Do you have inline or v engine?

Sorry to resurrect this thread, having a similar issue on my I6, intermittent loss of boost car still drives fine but even with foot down won’t ‘kick down’ turning off and on it will resolve

Code showering for boost pressure regulator

How hard is it to replace just the actuator on the i6 320?
 
Sorry to resurrect this thread, having a similar issue on my I6, intermittent loss of boost car still drives fine but even with foot down won’t ‘kick down’ turning off and on it will resolve

Code showering for boost pressure regulator

How hard is it to replace just the actuator on the i6 320?

Sorry never changed mine so no idea... try search 'OM648 turbo actuator'...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom