W211 E320cdi limp mode,codes

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MORGANpl

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Nov 9, 2014
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186
Car
Mercedes W212 E350 AMG Bluetec Night Edition Premium Plus
From time to time( not often) the car was entering limp mode. Stop the engine and start was "solving" the problem but last time i been stuck in traffic for almost 1.5h and the car went in limp mode but this time the engine light come on (first time since i own the car :eek: ) so this time the stop/start didn't work. I get home and when i begin to park the car the gearbox star to jerk while changing gear from D to R and R to D. Reading with cheap scanner I got the code P2015. Ive plug the car to snap on tool and got those codes show 2510,2513,2616. So what could be the problem? Swirl actuator , turbo actuator , boost sensor ? Can one problem cause to other? I mean if the swirl motor is not working can this show the turbo actuator error etc? I don't think that suddenly all those 3 things gone wrong?? And now the gearbox... Those errors would have something to do with the gearbox jerking?
 

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This is a problem that does crop up on om642’s and the forums . If you Google the problems there is a fair bit of reading . My car has had it
The swirl flap/inlet port motor , turbo actuator and I believe the exhaust back pressure sensor are all controlled by the same fuse in the engine bay fuse box . F44 , 15amp fuse I believe .
It would help to have a Star diagnostics at an MB specialist (or an icarsoft code reader ) . Do you have an MB specialist nearby ?
From my experience (I’m not a mechanic)
it will either be the actuator being gunged up or having a break inside on the electrical wires .
The swirl flaps sticking in the gunged up inlet manifolds or the inlet port motor being affected by dripping oil from the orange seal by the front of the turbo .
 
If it were me I would
remove the actuator and spray clean the gunk out with electrical cleaner and put a tiny tab of high temp grease on the moving worm gear thingy inside . Check the small wires that leave the electrical board inside the actuator , they can develop breaks .
Spray clean the inside of the exhaust back pressure sensor , there is a small hole that can block up inside .
If these two jobs don’t fix it , I would try fitting a 4.7k ohm resistor (£1) into the electrical feed to the inlet port motor to see if it’s the swirl flaps which are sticking .
These are nearly all free jobs with basic tools if you are handy .
 
If it were me I would
remove the actuator and spray clean the gunk out with electrical cleaner and put a tiny tab of high temp grease on the moving worm gear thingy inside . Check the small wires that leave the electrical board inside the actuator , they can develop breaks .
Spray clean the inside of the exhaust back pressure sensor , there is a small hole that can block up inside .
If these two jobs don’t fix it , I would try fitting a 4.7k ohm resistor (£1) into the electrical feed to the inlet port motor to see if it’s the swirl flaps which are sticking .
These are nearly all free jobs with basic tools if you are handy .
The fuse is ok and the turbo actuator been repaired once already maybe around 3 years ago... Maybe I should just buy new one or should I start from buying the flaps actuator plug ?
 
The fuse is ok and the turbo actuator been repaired once already maybe around 3 years ago... Maybe I should just buy new one or should I start from buying the flaps actuator plug ?
This is an easy plug purchase for the resistor on the inlet port motor .

The exhaust back pressure sensors don’t last forever either so if yours is original I think they are £50 new .
 
This is an easy plug purchase for the resistor on the inlet port motor .

The exhaust back pressure sensors don’t last forever either so if yours is original I think they are £50 new .
Plug fitted ,car have power back just lots of smoke from exhaust... I believe because i was driving week or so in limp mode so need a good blast.
 
Thanks for reporting the outcome 👍
 
Hope it stays sorted!
 

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