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W211 E320cdi won't move when drive selected.

boxer 01

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Oct 23, 2009
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w211 e320cdi sport g7 with paddleshift
After I have started my car and selected drive when I try to move off nothing happens the car just revs, this is the same in reverse. Once I turn off and restart everything is fine again and it won't happen all day, and sometimes it won't do it for weeks. This happened yesterday and again this morning, the transmission fluid was replaced earlier this year and the correct amount of mb fluid used. I would be interested if anyone else has experienced same issues. My car is a 2007 e320cdi with 170,000 miles and the transmission fluid has been done 3 times with no issues. People have mentioned oil wicking down some wiring would it be worth checking, any input would be appreciated.
 
Mine does that and I was told my ignition (EIS) needs replacing, I never did. I just do a restart as a new EIS is almost £5-600 on my S320cdi 2001, like yours it only happens once in a while. I usually find by waiting 5 seconds before turning the key from position 2 to 3 it seems to be fine, but if I start the car quickly it always needs a restart. Mine has covered 230k
 
Mine does that and I was told my ignition (EIS) needs replacing, I never did. I just do a restart as a new EIS is almost £5-600 on my S320cdi 2001, like yours it only happens once in a while. I usually find by waiting 5 seconds before turning the key from position 2 to 3 it seems to be fine, but if I start the car quickly it always needs a restart. Mine has covered 230k
Were you getting any codes or eml because mines do it everyday after it's been stood all night, then it's ok all day.
I think the cold weather is making matters worse.
 
Mine does that and I was told my ignition (EIS) needs replacing, I never did. I just do a restart as a new EIS is almost £5-600 on my S320cdi 2001, like yours it only happens once in a while. I usually find by waiting 5 seconds before turning the key from position 2 to 3 it seems to be fine, but if I start the car quickly it always needs a restart. Mine has covered 230k
Have you checked the basics such as the fluid level (no dipstick so a local independent is probably needed), when was the fluid last changed, have you or someone else scanned the car for codes?

Conductor plate issues can cause similar problems.
 
Fluid was changed in January and the correct amount of fluid was used.I assume the level is still ok as there are no leaks. Car drives fine after it's up and running. Is there any way I can check fluid level I have a basic scanner and an eml 327 with torque app. Does conductor plate fault throw a code.
 
Fluid was changed in January and the correct amount of fluid was used.I assume the level is still ok as there are no leaks. Car drives fine after it's up and running. Is there any way I can check fluid level I have a basic scanner and an eml 327 with torque app. Does conductor plate fault throw a code.
There is a transmission dipstick available but only MB dealers and Independents tend to have them. Also, the oil level needs to be checked at, I believe, 45 Deg C with the 7 speed gearbox.

Conductor plate problems should show a code and it can be tested with Star.

A basic code reader is unlikely to be of much help.
 
There is a transmission dipstick available but only MB dealers and Independents tend to have them. Also, the oil level needs to be checked at, I believe, 45 Deg C with the 7 speed gearbox.

Conductor plate problems should show a code and it can be tested with Star.

A basic code reader is unlikely to be of much help.
Ok thanks for replies will get codes read soon.
 

You might see if your model is listed.
I thought the ATF temperature should be 80 degrees, but I've only replaced ATF on the 5 speed so may well be wrong.
 

You might see if your model is listed.
I thought the ATF temperature should be 80 degrees, but I've only replaced ATF on the 5 speed so may well be wrong.
Mines the 722.9 transmission no dipstick I'm afraid.
 
Another thing to try is a different key if you've 2 . 👍

A hand held scanner would be very useful as it logs things like ,no signal acquisition from gearbox immobilizer, canbus faults , which can indicate a faulty key or eis .

Do you know if both keys are genuine ?
 
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You might see if your model is listed.
I thought the ATF temperature should be 80 degrees, but I've only replaced ATF on the 5 speed so may well be wrong.


The 7 and 9 are filled via the sump , at 45 degrees the level is drained until it doesn't drip , this gives you the exact amount. No dipstick tubes unfortunately.
 
I only got told about the EIS when my car would not go above 2nd gear/conductor plate, in the end it turned out to be the battery. Low voltage cause the car to activate a safe mode to ensure no major components are damaged so I guess the cold weather make the issue worse with batteries needing optimised temperature to operate fully. could be worth getting the battery checked.
 
I only got told about the EIS when my car would not go above 2nd gear/conductor plate, in the end it turned out to be the battery. Low voltage cause the car to activate a safe mode to ensure no major components are damaged so I guess the cold weather make the issue worse with batteries needing optimised temperature to operate fully. could be worth getting the battery checked.
I think the battery is ok. But I have had issues with the eis previously. The problem was when key was inserted nothing would happen but a quick wiggle or removal and reinsertion usually worked, I removed the module to check part number with a view to replacing but for nearly 12 months it's been ok. I will try my spare key tomorrow and if fault persists will look into replacing eis. I did charge the battery a couple of weeks back but will check that too. Easier fix than conductor plate.
 

You might see if your model is listed.
I thought the ATF temperature should be 80 degrees, but I've only replaced ATF on the 5 speed so may well be wrong.
80 degrees on the 5 speed. 45 degrees I thought on the 7 speed.👍
 
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I think the battery is ok. But I have had issues with the eis previously. The problem was when key was inserted nothing would happen but a quick wiggle or removal and reinsertion usually worked, I removed the module to check part number with a view to replacing but for nearly 12 months it's been ok. I will try my spare key tomorrow and if fault persists will look into replacing eis. I did charge the battery a couple of weeks back but will check that too. Easier fix than conductor plate.
There are a few companies who can repair the EIS, it’s half the cost of replacing it but not sure how long it will last, but comes with a warranty. You do need to remove the EIS module and send it to them with your keys and would probably take the best part of a week depending on postage time. I thought about using them but my intention was not to keep the car in the long run, but here I am 10 years later and it’s still running, has a few problems here and there but it has kept me busy during lockdown fixing it.
 
I've actually spoke to someone mobile who will do it on the drive. I don't know if he would replace or repair I didn't ask but the cost would be about 120 pounds. I might give him a ring when it warms up a bit. Who knows my issues might disappear again by then 😜
 
Another thing to try is a different key if you've 2 . 👍

A hand held scanner would be very useful as it logs things like ,no signal acquisition from gearbox immobilizer, canbus faults , which can indicate a faulty key or eis .

Do you know if both keys are genuine ?
For the last 3 days now I have been using my other key which is a genuine mb key and car has started and pulled away in drive no problems. The key I was using originally was done by a mobile locksmith sent by the RAC when I lost my original key and claimed on key protect cover.
So it looks like the non genuine key is not quite as good as the original especially in the cold.
 
For the last 3 days now I have been using my other key which is a genuine mb key and car has started and pulled away in drive no problems. The key I was using originally was done by a mobile locksmith sent by the RAC when I lost my original key and claimed on key protect cover.
So it looks like the non genuine key is not quite as good as the original especially in the cold.

Most likely the cheap shit Chinese keys they use to make a clone . I had the same experience,hence my reply . Glad it's working and hopefully for good.
 

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