W211 E55 - some essential questions

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jimmyca69

Active Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2012
Messages
146
Location
Carmarthen
Car
Looking for new one
Hi all

Have been trying to research this more and more so as not to be the noob who asks the same questions and I believe I have answered most of my queries - however there are a couple I am not 100% sure on: So here goes:

1) Warranty - are Warranty Direct any good for this car? will it cover the main issues? They quoted £800 a year for their prestige coverage which apparently will cover wear and tear items.

2) Star software - used to vagcom so wondering what costs are like in comparison?

3) Test drives - what to look out for, additional tests above the usual for a e55, suspension pump - best way to test? - SBC failure? what to check? Linked to above is it a good idea to source Star software for any visit?

Thanks all :thumb:
 
1. mayube worth having warranty for the first year, get the one that covers everything, you need to read the policy document really and compare to mercedes tier 1.

2. costs vary and is VERY different to VAGCOM, software, multiplexor and cables together wit ha sau[pported laptop and knowledge on how to use it.

3. just make sure everything works! usual things to check are that all service extras like spark plugs have been changed, brakes look ok, etc etc, theres a comprahensive list on the forum somewhere where its all been asked before!

good luck!
 
Thanks

I have searched a lot but struggling to find specifics - will keep looking though
 
No such thing as a stupid question! He says speaking from experience!

I've found everyone on here so helpful and happy to repeat things.

We all enjoy our cars and understand that in each other. Don't need to explain the difference when you talk to someone who sees their car as just a method if getting from a to b.

The worst thing we would want to happen to ourselves is to buy a car and have that nightmare experience of it going really wrong!!!!!

Good luck. Hope you find the car you want!
 
Budget would help if you can tell us your ballpark then it will help in working out what to look for. You could pay anything from £6k up to £27k (if you want Acid's), the next question is modified or standard?
 
Budget will be around 10k - ideally for a 54 plate facelift as read the electrics can be slightly dodgy on earlier models.

Not bothered about mileage as long as FSH and good condition.

Standard will do me just fine :) wouldn't be keen on any modified models if im honest.
 
I got my inde to check mine out. Initially I made sure the electronics worked.

In hindsight, I would also check the 'RAISE CAR' button does (it's subtle but you can feel and see it raising), and check the suspension change button changes it during a drive (it shows you in the speedo what you've selected and you should feel it change - at least between SPORT II and COMFORT).
 
actually that is one point, try and go for one that has 805 or 806 on the data card, these have later electrical modules and some of the gremlins gone. The rad issue is also gone on the later ones. Also makes some of the upgrades easier.

these start at late 04` onwards, but dont always assume as i have seen 2005 05 plates with an 804 build.

these codes will be at the back of the service books.
 
Budget will be around 10k - ideally for a 54 plate facelift as read the electrics can be slightly dodgy on earlier models.

Not bothered about mileage as long as FSH and good condition.

Standard will do me just fine :) wouldn't be keen on any modified models if im honest.

Forget what you perceive about 54 plates onwards being devoid of electrical gremlins, the best way to tell is where the speaker is in the middle of the dashboard; if it's mesh then it's the 'updated' electrics and if the grille is slatted then it's the earlier one with a slightly higher probability of 'gremlins'.

If I were you, I'd do my best to persuade one of the rabble on here that own a W211 E55 to sell theirs because even if it costs a tad more than you'd have liked, at least you can trust* them to a degree. These cars can soon wrack up some big bills. there's a bit of a saying on this forum that goes;

There's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes.

Good luck in your search.
 
For standard cars then specification is important. Comand, Heated and Ventilated memory seats, Keyless Go and Parktronic. If you can Dynamic Seats and Distronic.

Some of the trader guys on here may be able to correct but I would have thought for a 04/05 at around 10k you will be looking at 90-110k miles so you should check

SBC- has it been replaced you are getting to the sort of mileage where it could flag up. £1500-2000 bill

Door mirrors check they work a lot have motor issues and are £250 to replace

Airmatic - pump, relay shocks are they OK. Does the car rise when asked, don’t be to alarmed if the car raises slightly when started but it can also be a sign that there is a leak. For some reason drivers rear can sit slightly lower. Check when or if they have been replaced. Big bills here each strut is more than £1k.

Brakes - check for heat cracks and spot sure sign its had a hard time. Once the cracks get to big you will need to replace. Front disks and pads are about £300-400 fitted depending on labour rates.

Tyres - check rears on inside edge of the car an issue on many W211's but with hard launched the car squats and can cause additional wear. Front look for uneven wear these cars seem to throw themselves out very easily.
Set of rears are approx £420 fitted and front £380.

Check gearbox has had fluid changes every 37k and that torque converter does not step in and out. £ 250-275 for fluid change and at least £1200-1800 if your unlucky to have a TC problem.

Check the Radiator for earlier 2002 and 2003 cars for Valeo issue but even on later ones check for damage as it’s an £800 part.

At 100k you can also hit O2 sensor and Cat issues if you are really unlucky. O2 sensors are £170 and there are 4 of them with 4 cats to match.

Spark plugs when were they changed, they are at least £250 -350 bill. £160 DIY fix

Idler pulleys, listen to all the engine pulleys bearings can start to play up. £150-250 to replace idler and tensioner.

Check for oil leaks around left and right valve covers, easy DIY fix.

Check AC works and listen for noises behind dash if the flaps get stuck its a dash out fix.

Rust and accident damage check carefully everywhere particularly inner edge of rear arch.

If possible get someone with Star to come along and plug it in but at very least I would take an ODB2 reader and make sure your test drive is more than 20 mins this will give the sensors a chance to register any problems and will flag up the obvious ones.
Bad news is it won’t deal with SBC or Airmatic which for me at the most likely to bring you the big bills.
 
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I bought my 53 plate, one owner, FMBSH with 56K miles in Oct 2011, and dealer offered me an RAC warranty for £450 with a total max payout of £1K. W/Dir quoted £994 for a limited policy with total max payout of £2K and £300 excess. When I tried to negotiate a better deal on the phone with them I was told an AMG Merc over six years old was a high risk hence the high premium.

I decided to take the risk and not bother with a warranty, and so far so good. despite spending £1600 on a C service, new front discs and pads, a crankshaft position sensor, and new diff seals, none of which the warranties would have paid out for. The rear diff seals hurt as it is a five hour job to fit two £8 rubber rings, but keeping the servicing 100% gives me peace of mind and help keep the residual value.
 
Most expensive fix for mine was front airmatic shock, as they get done in pairs at around £1500 each. Check for leaks.

Great cars ! Good luck.

Marc
 
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Forget what you perceive about 54 plates onwards being devoid of electrical gremlins, the best way to tell is where the speaker is in the middle of the dashboard; if it's mesh then it's the 'updated' electrics and if the grille is slatted then it's the earlier one with a slightly higher probability of 'gremlins'.

Yeah - mine has the mesh and is code 805 at the back but I've also seen slats on a 54.

I decided to take the risk and not bother with a warranty, and so far so good. despite spending £1600 on a C service, new front discs and pads, a crankshaft position sensor, and new diff seals, none of which the warranties would have paid out for. The rear diff seals hurt as it is a five hour job to fit two £8 rubber rings, but keeping the servicing 100% gives me peace of mind and help keep the residual value.


I just had a 'G' service, rear discs, rear pads, front pads, ball joint and came in at £1450.

This is exceptional though I would venture, because other services I've had have been less.

I would also argue that whilst these cars are not cheap to run, a lot of saloons of the same era can run into similar big bills sometimes - as per my previous 2004 Saab 9-5 Aero HOT, which proved it wasn't cheap either.

I share the same attitude as you - and to be fair, the car drives like new.
 
One more I forgot check the gearbox cooler pipes where they enter the Radiator on the drivers side, you will probably need to get the front lower tray off. The rust like hell and if not watched will corrode into the radiator which means on top of the gearbox oil and new pipes you will need a new radiator. So expect a £1k bill if you catch it early its only about £300!
 
My E55 had been put away for the winter but this thread while reminding me of all the bad things that can go wrong also stirred my memories of the good things. Quickly unplugged the battery conditioner and fired it up. Went for a spirited little run and came back all smiles it had only been 8 days but forgot about that rush as the supercharger starts to spin. Put it back away again I wonder if I will last more than 8 days this time?
 
oh that reminds me, if you have Active xenon lights make sure they work and no errors on the dash. they are about £600 per unit to replace!

mines sitting in pieces in the garage whilst the lights are being sorted, too cold to tinker!
 
Collated info so far below - cant edit original thread to add this but those who contributed can use below to look to get a sticky or something that would help others.

E55 W211 Buyers Guide

For standard cars then specification is important. Comand, Heated and Ventilated memory seats, Keyless Go and Parktronic. If you can Dynamic Seats and Distronic.

Facelift - the best way to tell is where the speaker is in the middle of the dashboard; if it's mesh then it's the 'updated' electrics and if the grille is slatted then it's the earlier one with a slightly higher probability of 'gremlins'. Facelifts also have 805 or 806 on the data card. The rad issue is also gone on the later ones. Also makes some of the upgrades easier. These start at late 04` onwards, but don’t always assume as there are 2005 05 plates with an 804 build.


For high mileage cars (90k +)
  • SBC - has it been replaced you are getting to the sort of mileage where it could flag up. £1500-2000 bill
  • Door mirrors - check they work a lot have motor issues and are £250 to replace
  • Airmatic - pump, relay shocks are they OK. Does the car rise when asked, don’t be to alarmed if the car raises slightly when started but it can also be a sign that there is a leak. For some reason drivers rear can sit slightly lower. Check when or if they have been replaced. Big bills here each strut is more than £1k.
  • Brakes - check for heat cracks and spot sure sign it’s had a hard time. Once the cracks get to big you will need to replace. Front disks and pads are about £300-400 fitted depending on labour rates.
  • Tyres - check rears on inside edge of the car an issue on many W211's but with hard launched the car squats and can cause additional wear. Front look for uneven wear these cars seem to throw themselves out very easily. Set of rears are approx. £420 fitted and front £380.
  • Check gearbox has had fluid changes every 37k and that torque converter does not step in and out. £ 250-275 for fluid change and at least £1200-1800 if your unlucky to have a TC problem.
  • Check the Radiator for earlier 2002 and 2003 cars for Valeo issue but even on later ones check for damage as it’s an £800 part.
  • At 100k you can also hit O2 sensor and Cat issues if you are really unlucky. O2 sensors are £170 and there are 4 of them with 4 cats to match.
  • Spark plugs when were they changed, they are at least £250 -350 bill. £160 DIY fix
  • Idler pulleys, listen to all the engine pulleys bearings can start to play up. £150-250 to replace idler and tensioner.
  • Check for oil leaks around left and right valve covers, easy DIY fix.
  • Check AC works and listen for noises behind dash if the flaps get stuck it’s a dash out fix.
  • Rust and accident damage check carefully everywhere particularly inner edge of rear arch.
  • If possible get someone with Star to come along and plug it in but at very least I would take an ODB2 reader and make sure your test drive is more than 20 mins this will give the sensors a chance to register any problems and will flag up the obvious ones. Bad news is it won’t deal with SBC or Airmatic which for me at the most likely to bring you the big bills.
  • Check the gearbox cooler pipes where they enter the Radiator on the driver’s side, you will probably need to get the front lower tray off. The rust like hell and if not watched will corrode into the radiator which means on top of the gearbox oil and new pipes you will need a new radiator. So expect a £1k bill if you catch it early it’s only about £300
  • If you have Active xenon lights make sure they work and no errors on the dash. they are about £600 per unit to replace!
 

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