W211 front suspension rattle noise when driving over rough road surface

[Welby]

Hi all

Got the above which has appeared over recent weeks on the off side/driver's side. 118k miles on the E320 CDI 2006 V6. I've replaced before this both top and bottom ball joints on both front sides (last year with Lemforder units). Thought it was the wheel bearing as all other bits seem at home and nothing obvious to be worn. I have Airmatic too btw but I doubt this the cause. Changed the inner and outer wheels bearings out last night and gutted to find no improvement, the rattle remains the same on rough road surface. So antiroll bar or control arms are the only original items left, oh and the airmatic strut top.

Can anyone shed some light on what it is? Antiroll bar sway links do these rattle when worn or does the control arm?

Any help much appreciated

Many thanks


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[Iceviolet]

I had a rattle on my cls with airmatic also, thought it was ball joints but it turned out to be the caster arm. It was hard to diagnose as i could not see anything wrong with it until removed from the car, the large bushings were shot and tapping against its mounting when driving over rough road, more so under braking.
There should be a date stamp on the arm which could give you a clue to if they are original or not. If so they are at the cery end of their life.

 

[Welby]

Oh right, I'd better look at that then. When you say driving on rough road mine rattles over the slightest imperfection in the road surface and is does make any noise over large bumps, sleeping policemen etc. Under breaking also no noise. They'll be original units without doubt. I drove over a cattle grid yesterday very slowly and that is perfect for generating the rattle yet the suspension isn't being used much of travelling much. I'll search for some pic of the caster arm. Thanks Iceviolet


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[camerafodder]

The drop links make a really irritating ticking noise when worn. Easy fix if that's the problem.

 

[Welby]

Okay great, will investigate that and replace with it being that easy, thanks v much


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[Auto-mobile]

As above, look at he castor arm, sometimes you really have to hang off it to feel any play, if it is anti roll bar it won't be links it will be a lower arm as that is where the ball joint is.
Shame you changed the wheel bearings, there adjustable.

 

[Welby]

Okay Auto-mobile as you say I'll take a look at the castor then as the ball joint I replaced last year because of play in the lower arm. The wheel bearing isn't a biggy, grease was dry in the hub anyway and very black on the inner most bearing, thanks v much


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[Alps]

when mine rattled it was the brake pads come away from its backing and was sitting at the bottom of the caliper rattling on all bumps, easy to spot with wheel off.

crowbar and a ramp to check all bushes properly

 

[Welby]

Cheers Alps, I had the pads out to change the bearing and they were new last year too. A ramp is the one thing I don't have! Will get it up the air somehow with a crowbar. thanks v much


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[WG M-B]

As above, look at he castor arm, sometimes you really have to hang off it to feel any play, if it is anti roll bar it won't be links it will be a lower arm as that is where the ball joint is.
Shame you changed the wheel bearings, there adjustable.

As above with regards to the roll bar link lower ball joint.

Easy way to check is to remove the drop link and drive it

 

[Welby]

Auto-mobile you were 100% correct, the castor arm it was, the ball joint was worn, got a Lemforder replacement from ECP is now fitted and no noises at all! ECP supplied the wrong part at first, had to put the old one back in to return to ECP and collect the right part. On inspection of the worn part, the rubber seal had a small hole around the base letting moisture in. May do the near side in a few months. Only the track rod end ball joints are original now. Very feeble suspension components from MB I have to say. All good though


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[badmoon]

I have got the same problem, took it to a MB specialist who said there were 2 worn ball joints, they replaced all 4 although they were all less that 2 yrs and 10k mls old. Rattle and bang still there no improvement at all have i just wasted £450? So what next?

 

[Welby]

The top ball joints also cause rattles, as do both bottom ball joints, so there are 6 in total across both sides. Also just because they are new doesn't mean the replacement quality is up to the job, I saw bottom ball joints for as little as £11 online, these are the pressed in one's and not the castor arm ball joints that is fixed to the castor arm. I bought the most expensive ones I could get to have longevity out of them, Lemforder seem to be about the most you'll pay for a replacement. If its not any of the ball joints then look at the anti roll bar link ends or the control arm itself (the link ends and shock attach to the control arm). There isn't anything else left then. Jack the car up and use a crow bar to check for play. My W211 is a 56 plate with 122K. Both top ball joints, both bottom control arm ball joints and one castor arm on the drivers side. I replaced them all myself. Try another indie if you don't want to do it yourself. Good luck


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[Reamer]

Also do not rule out the top strut mount. I changed mine after changing everything else! Bingo! However I used the ECP own brand and now changing again but using original parts.

When I jack up the front in the middle I can see the shock bolt is sagging well below the other side. It as if the rubber has delaminated and allows the shock to bounce up and down. Causes a little rattle over uneven surfaces but fine over big bumps.

I live in Shocklach near Chester and have a sealeys hydraulic spring compressor as well as a ball joint press. If any needs assistance I am more than willing to help, as I have replaced everything on the front end now, so I can offer my experience and tools.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

I have got the same problem, took it to a MB specialist who said there were 2 worn ball joints, they replaced all 4 although they were all less that 2 yrs and 10k mls old. Rattle and bang still there no improvement at all have i just wasted £450? So what next?

start with the cheapest parts ie the anti roll bar links and work your way through , if you remove the link and go for a drive and noise goes away then you have your answer. which 4 ball joints did they replace , only ones i can think of are 1 in each hub and the small one in the lower rear arm that the roll bar link attaches to ??

 

[badmoon]

Hi One for the road they said both top and bottom ball joints. When I took it back the next day they said it was the shocks. I will try the disconnecting the anti roll ball and see if that stops the noise

 

[OneForTheRoad]

so they are just guessing then

 

[J4CKO]

Mine is making a load of noises, at parking speeds, drives me insane, nothing wrong with it as far as I can see.

Might be worth getting all the parts as can get a full kit, bte the bullet and replace it all, just not sure about the ARB bushes, its a CLS and they look a pig to get at.