W211 SBC brake pads: I'm going in.

[The Mirror Man]

It's brake pad time. I plan to raise the car, lock it (until it's all finished), take the wheels off and leave it for 15 minutes before dismantling the calipers to clean things up, change the pads and put it all back together.

Q: what have I missed out before disaster strikes.

Phase 2: I was planning to change the rear pads too but have been warned by an ex MB trained technician that the rear calipers are prone to lock up a few miles after a pad change?????????? I'm not too sure about doing the rears now.

 

[pmcgsmurf]

Why not just disconnect the main battery and unplug the connector to the SBC unit?

 

[OneForTheRoad]

the 1st time i did mine i took both batteries off, the 2nd time i just turned off anti jack and the alarm ,locked the car and hid the keys once i removed the wheels. i did the fronts 1st time the rears the 2nd time, i have had no issues what so ever with any caliper , as you know i also changed all the slider pins . one thing to watch out for is the small hex bolt holding the brakepad wear sensor ,they need wd40 or similar first as they snap very easily inside the caliper.

 

[AMGeed]

Q: what have I missed out before disaster strikes.

Leave the bonnet open and the brake fluid cap off. Take a little fluid out if you intend to press the pads in and not open the bleed nipples. If the fluid level is too high it will overflow out the top of the reservoir.

 

[steveq]

Hi,

I have changed the rear pads on a W211 with SBC with no issues either during or afterwards.
Make sure that the rear pads can slide in the callipers. You may need to use a wire brush to clean the slots.

Good advice on the bonnet and brake fluid cap. You may have to take some fluid out -- probably will have to if you are changing front and rear pads.

Is 15 mins adequate for SBC to "go to sleep"?
I think I left it longer before I went near it.

Good luck with it.

 

[The Mirror Man]

I left the car go to sleep for 30 minutes or more and had no issues at all on the side I have done. SWMBO has called me in for tea so Ill do the other side tomorrow morning. Although the sliders are lovely and smooth only one pad slides in the caliper. Not sure if that is going to be an issue??? I should have ordered new wear sensors too. I'll have to change those next week. Bummer!

 

[The Mirror Man]

All done without issue. Gave the calipers a good scrubbing where the pads fit and copper greased same. The check brake, visit workshop message is still up so I will be changing the rears next week.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

join the sensor wires after the plug to kill the message if its bothering you . pagid pads come with a caliper service kit btw inc sensors , new bolts and a piston shim .

 

[steveq]

Hi,

Good stuff, well done.
You don't need new wear sensors, you can just transfer them over to the new pads ---- unless the old ones are worn away.
Of course, drive gently and brake early for the first 100 miles or so.

Nice feeling to have it done and that you did it yourself.

 

[Auto-mobile]

Don't press any buttons in the remote
Don't open any doors
Don't switch on the ignition

All of the above will activate sbc when doing pads, it's no big deal changing them really.

If the dash say brake "wear" visit workshop then it's the sensor, if it says "check brake" visit workshop then there is a fault with the sbc system somewhere.

 

[The Mirror Man]

Don't press any buttons in the remote
Don't open any doors
Don't switch on the ignition

All of the above will activate sbc when doing pads, it's no big deal changing them really.

If the dash say brake "wear" visit workshop then it's the sensor, if it says "check brake" visit workshop then there is a fault with the sbc system somewhere.

Just been to check: it says "brake wear visit workshop" so that's ok.

 

[The Mirror Man]

The best bit is I'm 3-4 MPG up on after changing the pads: the best I've done on this journey is 45 and the best ever 47. A few miles earlier it was reading 49.5mpg. The old pads were binding a bit on one side, and they still are a bit but I'll put that right next week when I take them out again and give the slots the pads sit in a further clean up.

 

[johnsco]

"Don't press any buttons in the remote
Don't open any doors
Don't switch on the ignition
All of the above will activate sbc when doing pads, it's no big deal changing them really"

I'm also "going in" to do a complete refit of the brakes on my W211 E280 cdi sport estate.
Pads / discs / wear sensor(s) ... and I'm going to change the brake fluid by bleeding the brakes.
I've never done an SBC system before ........ Surely it can't be that difficult ???
I've been recommended that I can bleed them by gravity because the dot4+ fluid is low viscosity.
My usual bleed method is to use a self-sealing bleed tube and pump it thru with the pedal.
I've done plenty of W210s and a W126 in the past using this technique.
I don't have a power bleeder.
Obviously, I can't pump it with the pedal without opening the door.
Can I not bleed this car using my usual technique ?
I could use the gravity technique, but I prefer to force it thru to expel any traces of vapour.
One option is to tape down the driver's door button so that when I open the door I will fool it !!
But - Will pumping the pedal give me away ?
Advice please .....
Thanks in advance.
John

 

[pmcgsmurf]

Obviously, I can't pump it with the pedal without opening the door.
Can I not bleed this car using my usual technique ?
I could use the gravity technique, but I prefer to force it thru to expel any traces of vapour.
One option is to tape down the driver's door button so that when I open the door I will fool it !!
But - Will pumping the pedal give me away ?

That's a yes and a no.

You don't really have to concern yourself about "fooling it".
At the point you go to bleed you will have the calipers and pads all installed so the system priming itself is not a concern.

You wont though be able to bleed all the fluid in the SBC pump, for that you would need Star.

If it was me and I didn't have Star, I'd change everything that needed changed then get an Indie to do a fluid change, likely to cost maybe £60~90 assuming all the nipples are free enough.

 

[johnsco]

Thanks pmcgsmurf.
I see where you are coming from, and I think I might just do as you say.
I use Rodley Motors in Bradford for anything I can't do myself.
They are a very competent independent garage with full diagnostics.
The nipples will be free by that point.
I always slacken them off when I push back to pistons so that all the mucky fluid doesn't go back into the system.
Are there any bleed nipples actually on the SBC pump ?
Thanks again for your help.

 

[AMGeed]

That's a yes and a no.

You don't really have to concern yourself about "fooling it".
At the point you go to bleed you will have the calipers and pads all installed so the system priming itself is not a concern.

You wont though be able to bleed all the fluid in the SBC pump, for that you would need Star.

If it was me and I didn't have Star, I'd change everything that needed changed then get an Indie to do a fluid change, likely to cost maybe £60~90 assuming all the nipples are free enough.

+1

 

[johnsco]

????????????
I don't see yr post AMGeed.
Only your quote.

 

[pmcgsmurf]

????????????
I don't see yr post AMGeed.
Only your quote.

AMGeed is simply agreeing with my post.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

+1 he said.

 

[johnsco]

OK ....... Geddit Geddit !
Thanks.
John