W211 stubborn lower ball joint

[Nicebutdim]

I received an advisory at last MOT. Slight play front NS lower ball joint.

i decided to tackle it today. The ball joint separated from the control arm without difficulty.

I purchased the large G clamp type tool to remove the ball joint from the hub. The joint won’t budge. I’ve applied a lot of force through the tool using opposing three foot breaker bars/levers. I’m concerned that i may break the tool if i apply much more torque.

i havent applied heat yet. Is this the way forward or are there other things which may help?

 

[Jobsworth]

I don't recommend using heat. These ball joints can explode if you heat them. I always do these the long way, remove the whole knuckle and use the press, but I do own a garage. If you take the knuckle off and ask a local garage to press it out, press the new one in it'll only cost you a drink.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

Are you fitting the cups correctly.

 

[Jockcl500]

I would normally remove the ball joint out of the hub first, that way you can shock the ball joint with a hammer, and use a long bar as a lever to help it to come out, then separate from the control arm.

 

[MrGreedy]

When it's all tightened up with the tool, are you giving the general area some good sharp taps with the hammer to help 'shock' the stud free?
I wouldn't usually expect it to budge through tightening alone (although sometimes it does). Usually it 'pops' out with a few knocks around the stud, on the tool down in the direction of the stud, on the outside of the arm etc

 

[Nicebutdim]

I don't recommend using heat. These ball joints can explode if you heat them. I always do these the long way, remove the whole knuckle and use the press, but I do own a garage. If you take the knuckle off and ask a local garage to press it out, press the new one in it'll only cost you a drink.

Thanks for that. I feel it's early days to go down that route just yet but it may be necessary in the end. We’ll see.....

 

[Nicebutdim]

Are you fitting the cups correctly.

Yes, it’s difficult to get wrong. The tool isn’t one of those with multiple cup options. Just enough parts to do the specific job.

 

[Nicebutdim]

I would normally remove the ball joint out of the hub first, that way you can shock the ball joint with a hammer, and use a long bar as a lever to help it to come out, then separate from the control arm.

sorry don’t understand this. The joint is pressed into the hub and must be pressed out.

 

[Nicebutdim]

When it's all tightened up with the tool, are you giving the general area some good sharp taps with the hammer to help 'shock' the stud free?
I wouldn't usually expect it to budge through tightening alone (although sometimes it does). Usually it 'pops' out with a few knocks around the stud, on the tool down in the direction of the stud, on the outside of the arm etc

Thanks. Good advice. I haven’t tried the shock tactics yet. I’ll give it a try.

 

[jasonh]

You need to soak with penetrating fluid. Then fit the tool and wind up the pressure to as much as you think is safe. Leaving the pressure on start hitting the joint with a hammer. If you're lucky it'll pop after a while.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

Yes, it’s difficult to get wrong. The tool isn’t one of those with multiple cup options. Just enough parts to do the specific job.

Ok. I did both sides on an 08 Cls using a welded up 2 foot long torque wrench . They can be tight. Once they start to shift you have to be quick and keep on turning .

Some of these replies are in connection to ball joint on the end of an arm I think.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

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[Nicebutdim]

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That’s pretty much the way i approached the task. i note that this guy had to resort to heat.

 

[MrGreedy]

Edit:

Ah, I see now. Actually replacing the ball joint in the arm itself.

Agreed on the penetrating fluid soaking over 24 hours.
I like this from Toolstation currently under £4

Action Can RP-90 Penetrating Oil

Releases seized and corroded fasteners and assists in reassembly. Loosens and protects against rust and corrosion.RP-90 is a professional grade penetrating oil fortified with MoS2 (“moly”). Fast acting, excellent penetration into hard to reach areas, seeping through rust and corrosion for...

www.toolstation.com

I think the shocks with the hammer will help. I also wouldn't be too concerned with a little heat on the arm to help break it free. The ball joint will be tossed in the scrap bin afterwards.

 

[pmcgsmurf]

You need a good quality tool and big bar, also a large friend can be useful depending on your own size.

If you have bought the tool recently just use it and if it fails return it.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

Stick a gas paint remover , over the area for 5 minutes , it'll not explode. If you get it to shift ,then you might get some spray inside ? Couple of steak pies and a tin of spinach down ya neck . You'll soon pop it out .

 

[Gazwould]

 

[Nicebutdim]

On the subject of heat and exploding ball joints. I’m not doubting it happens but can’t understand why.

The swivelly ball bit cant explode, its solid steel. A knackered one flops about in its housing so not gas tight so can’t build up pressure under heat. Which bit explodes & why?

 

[Nicebutdim]

You need a good quality tool and big bar, also a large friend can be useful depending on your own size.

If you have bought the tool recently just use it and if it fails return it.

The tool appears well made and well designed. The receiving cup even has a light chamfer to guide the moving joint. It‘s difficult to judge just how much force to apply. I don’t like the idea of sudden failure of items that are under extreme load.

 

[Jobsworth]

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