W211 stubborn lower ball joint

[Nicebutdim]

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Thanks for that. As i said, i don’t doubt it happens but don’t understand why. If heat becomes necessary it does seem a sensible precaution to drill a relief hole. Anyway im going out to play now with renewed enthusiasm and some different thoughts on how to tackle the job. I’ll report back later today with my experiences. Thanks

 

[toolman1954]

Exploding Ball Joints.......
Some ( long ) time ago, I had to replace the front lower ball joint on my Sprinter 312, the ball joint is almost identical to the 211 one, bar the fact that it is fitted upside down and you have to remove it downwards. It is a right pig of a job, space is restricted, and I did not have one of the removal tools. I see you can now buy a ( expensive ) hydraulic tool which removes them in minutes.
The lad at the MOT Garage warned me that he had had them explode in the past and so to be careful.
Anyway, I tackled the job, and some time later after I had my big propane burner on the ball joint and it was glowing red, the ball joint exploded with a big bang, driving the pin an inch into the tarmac and frightening the life out of me. I thought that the propane bottle had gone bang ! , and It was a good job my foot was not in the way at the time. At least I was able to bash the joint out easily after that. However, I was told afterwards that it is easier to remove the arm and do the job off the van. Not only but also, a new ball joint from Mercedes was as cheap as a foreign part off of Ebay !.

Steve.

 

[Jobsworth]

It happens because grease is sealed inside a closed unit with no air space. When heated the grease expands, and as it has nowhere to go the pressure will increase. The power of hydraulics should never be underestimated. I suspect you know this really. I only mentioned it in the first place because I worry about the risks of personal injury. If you didn’t know I’d hate to see you hurt when I could have said something

 

[Tuercas viejas]

Caution
This joint is common on many vehicles not just MB products , Jeep, Landrover, and of course Ford VW..
You need a special tool to press it in and out.
The developed force can be as much as 50 tonnes to budge it.
If you take the control arm above black heat wth torch you will wreck the arm.
Pickavant makes a hydraulic tool for the job and at a pinch, use a hydraulic press to remove and place it.

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You might be able to find /rent this kit :-

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If you use the press option proceed with care, it can fly out of the press bed or shatter .
Then it can be a quick trip to what is called the Emergency Room here or A & E on your side.
Pain will be accompanied in both situations, except in the US you will get a bill after being patched up for more than $1000 in most cases so proceed with care.
Con cuidado.
Tuercas Viejas

 

[MrGreedy]

This is looking like for a DIY the best option is arm off and trip to local garage at lunchtime and ask them to do the swap for a 4 pack of decent beer and a £20 note secured to one of the cans with an elastic band....


Or ask for an invoice, whichever works.

 

[Nicebutdim]

Just back in for lunch. Im working on the drive with the car on axle stands so space is limited. Anyway, no joy with special tool and hub in place on car. So ive removed the whole assembly so i can have a go with it off the car. More later.

 

[Tuercas viejas]

A tip.
If the tool will get enough pressure on that corroded specimen, and its more than just tickling it, give the knuckle a sharp tap with a good BFH (like a 2 to 3 lb engineer's ball pein) ON THE FLANK of the ball joint location. The shock will often make the ball joint shudder or jump and start to come out.
As always. use eye protection.
All the best
Tuercas Viejas

 

[ChipChop]

If your press tool cannot remove the lower ball joints there is always the nuclear option to consider. The base of lower ball joints is made of soft metal. Hammer a chisel through the base a good few times and the actual ball can be removed. Then use a junior hacksaw (blade in hole where ball joint socket used to be then connect to hacksaw) to saw through the ball joints metal body in two locations. It will then come out easily. Plusgas is your friend.

Best of luck.

 

[Nicebutdim]

Thanks everybody for your suggestions. The item is now removed.
Once the assembly was off the car i drilled a hole in the bottom of the balljoint to relieve any pressure when i applied bags of heat from a large propane torch. Then tightened up the tool as much as possible and gave the tool’s threaded shaft some hefty whacks with a lump hammer. Eventually the joint moved slightly, then more heat more tightening and more whacks.

i was surprised just how much force was required. I would have never managed it with the assembly still bolted to the car. Not enough room to swing the hammer and manhandle the breakers.

And something went bang when applying heat. I suspect the inside of joint is lined with nylon/plastic which melted and bunged up the hole I’d drilled. Hence the pop. In any case the joint is encased in the tool so can’t go anywhere.

A benefit of removing the hub was that i discovered the upper ball joint was also knackered so waiting for my spares now before i put it all back together.

a few pics of the tool and progress as it moved towards coming out. Also hole drilled in base.

Thanks again everybody.
Tool slackened off to reveal movement above and hole drilled below.

 

[BlackC55]

I have used that tool and they are time consuming and if the joint is tight it wont budge them at all. The threads do give way too. We have an hydraulic one that is great but the kit is £2500.

We charge about £140 including the joint to do one. Make sure you buy a quality joint too. The cheap ones last 5 mins....literally.

 

[Nicebutdim]

I have used that tool and they are time consuming and if the joint is tight it wont budge them at all.

I watched a few videos on youtube showing this type of tool in use which lead you to believe that they make the job easy and your own ball joint will glide out with a minimum of fuss and effort.

The reality was different. I had to get brutal and use all my strength to get it to budge even a small amount.

I have access to a workshop press but the arm and hub are an awkward shape and i don’t know how easy it would be to position it safely.

 

[pmcgsmurf]

....
We charge about £140 including the joint to do one. Make sure you buy a quality joint too. The cheap ones last 5 mins....literally.

Good point, I've seen some from the motor factors lasting only a few thousand miles.
We now only fit OEM ones of these due to the labour involved.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

A knackered

Just back in for lunch. Im working on the drive with the car on axle stands so space is limited. Anyway, no joy with special tool and hub in place on car. So ive removed the whole assembly so i

I watched a few videos on youtube showing this type of tool in use which lead you to believe that they make the job easy and your own ball joint will glide out with a minimum of fuss and effort.

The reality was different. I had to get brutal and use all my strength to get it to budge even a small amount.

I have access to a workshop press but the arm and hub are an awkward shape and i don’t know how easy it would be to position it safely.

Tbf mate , your joint looks like it's been installed for a good number of years . It's very rusty.

 

[Nicebutdim]

A knackered



Tbf mate , your joint looks like it's been installed for a good number of years . It's very rusty.

Too true. Some of the videos on youtube originate from countries that have hot dry climates and no road salt. No doubt this makes removal a lot easier.