W212 2014 E-Class Power for Roadangel

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Frankor

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2014
Messages
31
Location
Buckie, Scotland
Car
MB E220 AMG Line Premium (W213)
Looking for some advice on an ignition live supply for my Road Angel: -
I don't want to have to penetrate the forward bulkhead, so would like to pick up an ignition live supply from either the power socket in the centre console, or the overhead console.
Problem is I cannot see how to gain access to either, so I am hoping any of you knowledgeable ladies/gentlemen can advise.

ba53e263-96a3-4120-a37c-4a82244acd60.jpg
Centre Console with closed and opened sliding lid
d8bbc57e-81c3-4cb2-93c9-45a0c857f7b1.jpg
Inner trays and divider removed, but not enough clearance to detach the power socket module.
Anyone know how to remove the sliding lid, or is there an alternative way to gain access? :dk:



Alternatively: Can anyone advise on how to detach the overhead console?


Thanks in advance.
 
Is there ign switched power in the overhead? There wasn't in the 211 when I went looking for the exact same reason. Sparky ended up taking feed from ign switch and running it up A pillar to unit mounted on bracket attached to mirror.




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Druk said:
Is there ign switched power in the overhead? There wasn't in the 211 when I went looking for the exact same reason. Sparky ended up taking feed from ign switch and running it up A pillar to unit mounted on bracket attached to mirror. .

That's the way I always do it if I can't pick up the feed from the 12v accessory socket
 
Is there ign switched power in the overhead? There wasn't in the 211 when I went looking for the exact same reason. Sparky ended up taking feed from ign switch and running it up A pillar to unit mounted on bracket attached to mirror.




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Won't know until I can gain access -- but on my last car (Jag XF) I was able to tap into the electrics for the non-existent sunroof. I think it is quite likely the wiring for a sunroof or blinds will have been pre-installed in the Merc.
 
Ah yes, the sunroof, I'd forgotten about that :doh:. I've pre-ordered this http://cheetahgps.co.uk/Cheetah_C150.php due to be released in mid Feb so will be looking closely at any replies you get.





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Looking for some advice on an ignition live supply for my Road Angel:


A further thought. Road Angel Gem and Gem+ work off a 5volt mini USB supplied from the cigarette lighter adaptor. You would have to have this male/female socket hidden somewhere behind the RVM. You can't wire the unit directly to 12v.
 
w211 had a fuse box on the right hand side or the dash which you could tap into.

there will be an accessible fuse box somewhere
 
A further thought. Road Angel Gem and Gem+ work off a 5volt mini USB supplied from the cigarette lighter adaptor. You would have to have this male/female socket hidden somewhere behind the RVM. You can't wire the unit directly to 12v.

Absolutely correct. An acquaintance managed to fry his unit by wiring directly to the 12v supply. For that reason I will again be using the supplied cable & adaptor taped up and secured to an extension somewhere behind the dash.
 
w211 had a fuse box on the right hand side or the dash which you could tap into.

there will be an accessible fuse box somewhere

That was my first option, and the documentation that came with the car clearly shows a mid chassis fuse box in the dash area.
I have had the end panels off the dash and raked around as far as I can, but this fuse box doesn't appear to exist. I can't even find a way to remove the glovebox to see if I can pick up a feed from somewhere else.

Might have to ask a friendly MB Tech :eek:
 
Absolutely correct. An acquaintance managed to fry his unit by wiring directly to the 12v supply. For that reason I will again be using the supplied cable & adaptor taped up and secured to an extension somewhere behind the dash.

I've opened a 12v - 5v plug and rescued the circuit board. When my new Cheetah unit arrives later this month I'm going to try and incorporate this CB into a small Maplin box, solder a mini USB onto the output wires and hardwire everything into the car.
 
Looking for some advice on an ignition live supply for my Road Angel: -
I don't want to have to penetrate the forward bulkhead, so would like to pick up an ignition live supply from either the power socket in the centre console, or the overhead console.
Problem is I cannot see how to gain access to either, so I am hoping any of you knowledgeable ladies/gentlemen can advise.

ba53e263-96a3-4120-a37c-4a82244acd60.jpg
Centre Console with closed and opened sliding lid
d8bbc57e-81c3-4cb2-93c9-45a0c857f7b1.jpg
Inner trays and divider removed, but not enough clearance to detach the power socket module.
Anyone know how to remove the sliding lid, or is there an alternative way to gain access? :dk:



Alternatively: Can anyone advise on how to detach the overhead console?


Thanks in advance.

I have just done exactly the same thing to get a power source. You will need to remove the entire sliding ashtray unit and not just the covers. To do this you need to firstly remove the button that opens the armrest. Do this by opening the overs, put a flat blade screwdriver into the rear slot of the button/handle and it will ping and then tilt up and pull forward. Next remove the two long, thin trim pieces either side of the ashtray covers buy pulling up hard at the front of them. Then remove the panel that the silver Command know is fixed to. to do this, pull up hard from the front edge and slide it forward. This is quite tricky to do and will require a bit of force, whilst being careful not to damage the silver knob. Put your little finger under the bottom corners of the heater control panel and this will hinge upwards giving you more room to remove the ashtray unit. Once this is out you will see four torx screws. Remove these and lift the ashtray unit up form the back and towards you. You will then see the wires feeding the cigar lighter socket. From memory, the thick brown wire was the negative and the black and green striped wore was the positive. Re-fitting is a reversal, but be careful not to damage the two black plastic locator pins at the bottom rear of the unit. It is apparent where these slot in, once the unit is out. If running a wire to the cigar lighter wires, be careful to route it correctly so as the unti sits back down properly as if it is under any pressure the sliding door will not operate correctly. Be careful when handling the unit as the tracks/runners can easily become disconnected if you handle it by the sides. Good luck
 
Brilliant … thank you for that Reflexboy.
I hope to have an opportunity to give this a go at the weekend.
 
I have just done exactly the same thing to get a power source. You will need to remove the entire sliding ashtray unit and not just the covers. To do this you need to firstly remove the button that opens the armrest. Do this by opening the overs, put a flat blade screwdriver into the rear slot of the button/handle and it will ping and then tilt up and pull forward. Next remove the two long, thin trim pieces either side of the ashtray covers buy pulling up hard at the front of them. Then remove the panel that the silver Command know is fixed to. to do this, pull up hard from the front edge and slide it forward. This is quite tricky to do and will require a bit of force, whilst being careful not to damage the silver knob. Put your little finger under the bottom corners of the heater control panel and this will hinge upwards giving you more room to remove the ashtray unit. Once this is out you will see four torx screws. Remove these and lift the ashtray unit up form the back and towards you. You will then see the wires feeding the cigar lighter socket. From memory, the thick brown wire was the negative and the black and green striped wore was the positive. Re-fitting is a reversal, but be careful not to damage the two black plastic locator pins at the bottom rear of the unit. It is apparent where these slot in, once the unit is out. If running a wire to the cigar lighter wires, be careful to route it correctly so as the unti sits back down properly as if it is under any pressure the sliding door will not operate correctly. Be careful when handling the unit as the tracks/runners can easily become disconnected if you handle it by the sides. Good luck

All done and working perfectly - grateful thanks to Reflexboy.
I did take some pictures of the process, but the photo's were very poor.

The only adjustment I would make to the instructions are
- using my little fingers to hinge up the heater control panel proved almost impossible (due to my not so little little fingers, and the retaining clips were also very tight). I used a couple of padded right angle screwdrivers to give me the purchase needed.

- The Red wire is the live and the Brown neutral. - I soldered connector tails on to the back of the power socket.

I located an extension socket in the void space in the right hand end of the dashboard and ran the cable inside the lower dash after removing three T25 Torx screws holding up the underpanel.
I then taped the Road Angel supplied adaptor into the new socket and ran the wire up the door seal to the dashboard top where the Roadangel sits.:D
 
I would like to thank reflexboy and Frankor for their posts which enabled me to wire my NextBase dash cam discretely.
I would like to add my experiences which others who attempt it may find useful and stop them giving up as I nearly did on two or three occasions.
The heater control panel I managed to pull out at the bottom by hooking under the bottom two old L shaped bicycle tyre levers I had and attach a photo of them. I also found out later in the operation that there is a trim panel under the hazard warning switch panel which can be unclipped and it exposes two screws which hold the heater control panel at the top and if these are unscrewed this panel can be moved to one side out of the way.
The chrome trim panels were indeed difficult to remove and I couldn't do it with just my fingers. I managed to move them enough to get my tyre levers underneath but even with these assisting my finger force they still took a lot of force to remove which at first I was reluctant to exert in case I damaged them. I have attached a picture of the back of the trims so that you can see the spring clips at the front and the middle which cause all the problems and a prong at the back with a square hole in it which slots into a peg.
I brought a twin USB power socket which I mounted alongside the cigarette lighter and soldered the wires on the lighter contacts. I have attached a picture of the socket.
The reassembly is relatively straight forward as long as you don't drop any torx screws, but that is another story. Just remember the ashtray cover has to be shut to enable reassembly.
I don't think I left any visible signs of what I had been doing apart from the USB socket when the ashtray is open.
I had already installed the dash cam and run the wire under the roof lining and behind the A post trim but hadn't been able to work out how I could route it behind the centre console and hardwire my socket so thanks for the contributors to this post for the information.
 

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Thanks Reflexboy and Frankor

Thanks Reflexboy and Frankor.
I followed your instructions, I was able to gain power to my Mivue dashcam :) :thumb: :bannana:
 
No problem guys. Glad it all worked out ok for you. I personally love discreet installs like these and hate seeing power cables swinging about all over the dash. I may call on you guys for help one day.
 
Also a rather good video here on how to gain access
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