W212 E220 timing chain replacement in place

Quadpr5

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Oct 25, 2020
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Lancashire
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W212 220 CDI
Hi,

I have a 2013 E220 CDI with 60k on the clock and it rattles on startup firtst thing for about 2 seconds.
It's coming from the rear of the engine where the timing chain is.

I plan to change the chain and tensioner in place rather than removing the engine as I'm assuming the guides with be OK, I at least think it's worth a shot.

Has any one done this job themselves? The issues I forsee are;
1, getting the correct chain splitter so I can split the old chain, attach new to old, then re-connect the new one.
2, Injector seals and seats- will I need to re-cut the seats?
3, Camshaft locking tool- will I need one?

Many thanks for any responses.
 

gianton

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Thessaloniki, Greece
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S204 C250 CDI 4Matic Avantgarde - 2013
With such a low mileage I would change just the tensioner first and see if it gets fixed.
 

Tonygw

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C250 CDI AMG Blue efficiency diesel
Does seem very low for this issue, mine went at 90K.

I didnt do mine, my local indy did it. But as far as I am aware , yes you need the correct tool to split the chain, My indy bought one in specially for the job from Germany, The injector seals do need to be replaced in the recommended procedure.
Not sure about camshaft locking tool, but I would imagine this is essential given the timing chain is removed.

Let us know how it goes,
cheers
 

Datadogie

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C180 Komp 2005
Why would you need a specialist tool to break the chain? Yes to put in a new rivet on the new chain. But you could grind the old rivet off the old chain.
 
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Quadpr5

New Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Lancashire
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W212 220 CDI
Does seem very low for this issue, mine went at 90K.

I didnt do mine, my local indy did it. But as far as I am aware , yes you need the correct tool to split the chain, My indy bought one in specially for the job from Germany, The injector seals do need to be replaced in the recommended procedure.
Not sure about camshaft locking tool, but I would imagine this is essential given the timing chain is removed.

Let us know how it goes,
cheers
Cheers to everyone that chimed in.

I went ahead (today) and changed the tensioner. Very fiddly as two or three bolts are difficult to get to. As a precaution I changed the oil & oil filter that had been in for 5k
and after idling for 5 minutes I dipped and found the oil had stayed almost like new- nice and clear. I then did the tensioner. All in all took me about 3 1/2 hours.

First start was a bit scary as the chain clattered until the oil pressure hit full.
The engine now sounds mint on every start. These tensioners work in a similar fashion to a hydralic tappet and I've discovered that the old tensioner wasn't even using 40% of it's range
so I'm pretty sure the chain hasn't stretched a lot if at all, I can't see such a short chain stretching that much either. My theory is the mode of failure is either sprocket wear and thus chain wear or tensioner failure causing
the guides to break. I imagine the former would be caused by poor maintainance. The latter just bad luck as most folk won't notice a startup rattle as the cabin is well insulated.

I guess time will tell when I see if my intermittent startup chain rattle has gone. It tended to be worse the higher the ambient temp. On cold very mornings it rarely did the startup rattle.

Quick foot note. I bought the tensioner from the local MB dealer who informed me the part had a 2 year warranty, he then informed me that if I thought the part was faulty I would have to pay a £195 diagnostic fee
which would be refunded if in their opinion the part was faulty! The part cost £100.
I think in future I'll get my parts elsewhere.
 

Tonygw

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593
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Leicestershire
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C250 CDI AMG Blue efficiency diesel
Good result then? Keep us posted.
I think the tensioner was revised to a newer design some time ago. So there is some advantage to buy OEM parts :)
 
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Quadpr5

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Joined
Oct 25, 2020
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Location
Lancashire
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W212 220 CDI
Good result then? Keep us posted.
I think the tensioner was revised to a newer design some time ago. So there is some advantage to buy OEM parts :)
I hope so! I started it this morning and it's quiet as a mouse so to speak I guess time will tell however I'm fairly sure it will be fine. Going forward I'm going to do oil and filter changes at 7.2k whick is half of the recommended interval which will go some way to prevent premature chain and guide wear. I have done this with every car I've ever owned and it's worked well for me. I have a berlingo van and have done the same routine on thats done 185k and it's still on the original turbo and sounds as sweet as a nut.
 

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