W212 E63 AMG advice and questions

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

f17ant

Active Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2020
Messages
554
Location
London
Car
W205 C63 Saloon
Hey people

Finally taking the plunge and will be on a hunt soon for a W212 E63 AMG. I originally was going to look for a W205 C63 but the prices of the E63 i think are so good value for money. Plus that 5.5 🤤

So i have a couple of questions.

1. The S are quite rare and the thought of such a powerful car not having LSD is slightly sketchy. Does the E63 atleast have a open diff and drive both rear wheels?

2. In general how reliable are these cars (i know being a merc they should be reliable) but I mean apart from the regular servicing do these cars tend to eat through sensors or other bits and bobs.. (obviously dont care if the car is a tyre muncher 😂)

3. Anything I should look out for when I start my hunt?

4. Can you get these cars to burble on overruns like the w205 C63 (please dont shot me down for that i know its not to everyones taste)

And thanks it! Cant wait to be behind a AMG
 
Sorry cannot help you but just wanted to say we'll done. I wish I had bought one but thought I was going to be commuting so went for a more economical AMG instead. Will watch and enjoy from a far.
 
I've owned two W212 E63's, a heavily optioned pre-facelift PPP car and a facelift regular E63 with a few nice options. In aggregate I drove them for around 75,000 miles as my daily driver.
1. The S are quite rare and the thought of such a powerful car not having LSD is slightly sketchy. Does the E63 atleast have a open diff and drive both rear wheels?
Be aware that the S model has a few other differences as well as the locking diff, so if you find one with the "right" options for you, it can be worth the premium.

The regular E63 just has an open diff, which does limit traction but it's a relatively easy issue to resolve by fitting a Quaife or Wavetrac torque-biasing diff and many standard cars will already have had a previous owner who did that. My PPP car had the factory AMG Locking Diff and I fitted a Quaife to my facelift car. Of the two, for road use I preferred the feel of the Quaife.
2. In general how reliable are these cars (i know being a merc they should be reliable) but I mean apart from the regular servicing do these cars tend to eat through sensors or other bits and bobs.. (obviously dont care if the car is a tyre muncher 😂)
The W212 in general is very well screwed together and the E63 variant is no exception. At high mileage expect to need replacement of various suspension bushes. Other than that, the brakes can take a hammering and both discs and pads are expensive.
3. Anything I should look out for when I start my hunt?
Start by working out which options are important to you. The cars are pretty well spec'd to start with, but things like the Driver Assistance Package and Dynamic Multi-Contour seats are worth seeking out as they improve the driving experience.

The M157 engine is a little clattery so it's not easy to identify unusual noises unless you're really familiar with the type, but there shouldn't be any heavy knocking and run a mile from anything with any evidence of a misfire or that exhibits oil smoke. On the subject of oil, again avoid anything that looks like it has any evidence whatsoever of an oil leak to the rear of the engine as it's an expensive fix.

The gear shifts are quite fierce in Sport and Sport+ mode by design, but should be smooth in Comfort mode. The MCT 'box uses a wet clutch rather than a torque converter but it should still creep and pull away smoothly with no odd vibrations.

The suspension should stiffen noticeably if you select either of the two firmer settings, and the steering should get heavier too. If either don't, there's a fault. It's not unusual to hear the rear suspension airmatic pump run for a bit when you first set off if the car has been stood for more than a couple of hours, but if it runs continuously or for along period there's a leak somewhere.

The front tyres wear their inner edge as a characteristic of the car, so it's nothing to worry about but it's easy to look at the outer part of the tread and think the tyres have good life in them when they don't. Pirelli P-Zeros are horrible when part worn and I hated them. ContiSport 5P's are very grippy and have good life but are noisy, and the best compromise I found for grip, feel, noise and life was Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3's.

Brakes should be progressive, powerful, and easy to modulate.

On a test drive, try to find a way to put a twisting load on the bodyshell by (for example) running the left or right wheels over a speed cushion. If that causes a fairly loud "crack" sound from the rear of the car it's likely that the pano roof mounting bolts have worked loose. This is a potential issue with any W212 with a pano roof, not unique to the E63, and is an easy fix but expensive due to the time it takes to drop and re-fit the headlining.

Other than that, just make sure everything works properly.
4. Can you get these cars to burble on overruns like the w205 C63 (please dont shot me down for that i know its not to everyones taste)
Yes - they do anyway if in Sport, Sport+ or Manual mode, but if you want it more pronounced get the resonator removed from the exhaust system.

My honest opinion is that the W212 E63 is almost the perfect car. It is hugely capable and an absolute hoot to drive and I miss having one. Enjoy your search.
 
There's a well-documented issue with early M157 engines concerning a loud rattle on startup. You can search in here and on the web for it. The engine may need replacement timing chain tensioners, check valves and possibly a replacement timing chain. I think engines from mid to late 2014 onward are ok but others on here will be able to provide more detailed info.
 
There's a well-documented issue with early M157 engines concerning a loud rattle on startup.
The problem with this is that you will only hear it on first startup from stone cold when the engine hasn't been run for around 8 hours or longer, so it's incredibly difficult to know if a car you're looking at has the issue or not.
 
Double check that the gearbox ATF and filter were done on time (or when due) . Might be a negotiating point or a reason to walk away .
Not sure what the schedule is for the car you are looking at
 
I've owned two W212 E63's, a heavily optioned pre-facelift PPP car and a facelift regular E63 with a few nice options. In aggregate I drove them for around 75,000 miles as my daily driver.
Be aware that the S model has a few other differences as well as the locking diff, so if you find one with the "right" options for you, it can be worth the premium.

The regular E63 just has an open diff, which does limit traction but it's a relatively easy issue to resolve by fitting a Quaife or Wavetrac torque-biasing diff and many standard cars will already have had a previous owner who did that. My PPP car had the factory AMG Locking Diff and I fitted a Quaife to my facelift car. Of the two, for road use I preferred the feel of the Quaife.
The W212 in general is very well screwed together and the E63 variant is no exception. At high mileage expect to need replacement of various suspension bushes. Other than that, the brakes can take a hammering and both discs and pads are expensive.
Start by working out which options are important to you. The cars are pretty well spec'd to start with, but things like the Driver Assistance Package and Dynamic Multi-Contour seats are worth seeking out as they improve the driving experience.

The M157 engine is a little clattery so it's not easy to identify unusual noises unless you're really familiar with the type, but there shouldn't be any heavy knocking and run a mile from anything with any evidence of a misfire or that exhibits oil smoke. On the subject of oil, again avoid anything that looks like it has any evidence whatsoever of an oil leak to the rear of the engine as it's an expensive fix.

The gear shifts are quite fierce in Sport and Sport+ mode by design, but should be smooth in Comfort mode. The MCT 'box uses a wet clutch rather than a torque converter but it should still creep and pull away smoothly with no odd vibrations.

The suspension should stiffen noticeably if you select either of the two firmer settings, and the steering should get heavier too. If either don't, there's a fault. It's not unusual to hear the rear suspension airmatic pump run for a bit when you first set off if the car has been stood for more than a couple of hours, but if it runs continuously or for along period there's a leak somewhere.

The front tyres wear their inner edge as a characteristic of the car, so it's nothing to worry about but it's easy to look at the outer part of the tread and think the tyres have good life in them when they don't. Pirelli P-Zeros are horrible when part worn and I hated them. ContiSport 5P's are very grippy and have good life but are noisy, and the best compromise I found for grip, feel, noise and life was Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3's.

Brakes should be progressive, powerful, and easy to modulate.

On a test drive, try to find a way to put a twisting load on the bodyshell by (for example) running the left or right wheels over a speed cushion. If that causes a fairly loud "crack" sound from the rear of the car it's likely that the pano roof mounting bolts have worked loose. This is a potential issue with any W212 with a pano roof, not unique to the E63, and is an easy fix but expensive due to the time it takes to drop and re-fit the headlining.

Other than that, just make sure everything works properly.
Yes - they do anyway if in Sport, Sport+ or Manual mode, but if you want it more pronounced get the resonator removed from the exhaust system.

My honest opinion is that the W212 E63 is almost the perfect car. It is hugely capable and an absolute hoot to drive and I miss having one. Enjoy your search.

Best write up ever thank you!!

I'm 100%looking to get face-lift model
 
There's a well-documented issue with early M157 engines concerning a loud rattle on startup. You can search in here and on the web for it. The engine may need replacement timing chain tensioners, check valves and possibly a replacement timing chain. I think engines from mid to late 2014 onward are ok but others on here will be able to provide more detailed info.

Thank you looking at 2015 models so this is good to know!
 
Excellent write up from Phil in Post#3
I have had my E63 facelift for almost a year and cant add too much more to what has been said previously.

I had a few options in mind that I would not change when looking for my car and was fortunate enough to find one. The E63S does have a premium of up to £5k over the non-S and will probably hold its value that bit better due to its scarcity.
Mine has been almost faultless in my 11 month ownership barring one glitch with the Autowatch Ghost I had fitted . Brake components are not cheap, especially the S with ceramic discs, so check the pad and disc wear when looking them over.

I've had mine remapped and its probably affecting the fuel consumption somewhat, but I'm seeing 15 - 18 around town and up to 27 on a long run. But the shove in the back from any speed when you plant the throttle is well worth it.
Get the resonator removed for real smiles on the downshift in S and S+. The cold start is pretty loud though.

If you buy from the main dealers you'll get a 2 year warranty which is worth over £5k if buying it yourself for a non dealer car.
I was shocked to find its £2650 a year to get a Mercedes warranty on mine. I didn't bother and put away a decent amount nothing goes wrong.
Be careful buying a car that has been remapped previously. If pushed too far they can self destruct and misfiring is one clue all is not well. Avoid any car that does misfire is my advise. I believe post 14 models have the revised timing chain and opening the oil cap you can check if you know what the older ones look like.
A good 2015 non S model with low miles (under 30k) should be available from £27k upwards depending on spec and who is selling it.

Good luck finding the one you want.

I
 
Double check that the gearbox ATF and filter were done on time (or when due) . Might be a negotiating point or a reason to walk away .
Not sure what the schedule is for the car you are looking at

3 years or 31k mile intervals for ATF on the 7G+
 
Had myn from new for 3 years and 37k as a daily driver and not one fault. Best car ever. Does everything well. ST13phil has covered everything for you.
 
There ste
Had myn from new for 3 years and 37k as a daily driver and not one fault. Best car ever. Does everything well. ST13phil has covered everything for you.
What year did you get yours?
 
Early timing chains can be trouble. They superceded to a better chain with a fat central link rather than a two piece central link in 2014. You can see which type it has through the oil filler cap hole. Sadly updating the chain involves some new sprockets as the new chain doesn’t fit the old sprockets, and it’s a big strip. The early chains do stretch, so worth checking.
 
I am in the market for an E63 (face lift) so reading some of these replies is a bit worrying. Is a remap likely to result in issues?
 
I'll add my two penn'oth...

If there's the slightest sign of a misfire on hard throttle at high revs, walk away; if you buy one and ever get that, it's possible to bend conrods. The most likely culprit, from my (very expensive) experience (with an 88K 2012 PPP), is a faulty intercooler pump, so if you ever do get a misfire, don't use hard throttle until you've both had the codes read and cleared, and had the pump replaced as a precaution.
 
I am in the market for an E63 (face lift) so reading some of these replies is a bit worrying. Is a remap likely to result in issues?
I would of thought any remap could be an issue. More specifically a remap from a less known/experienced tuner. If I ever wanted mine remapped there would be a very short list of people I would consider. I haven't had my CLS 63 S for long (same engine) having just replaced the rear pads I can confirm they are expensive but these are premium sports cars. I had an intermittent misfire which was nothing major (ignition coil). I took it to Autoclass in MK who said that it was rare for this to happen when I questioned if I should expect the coils to need replacing.
 
I would of thought any remap could be an issue. More specifically a remap from a less known/experienced tuner. If I ever wanted mine remapped there would be a very short list of people I would consider. I haven't had my CLS 63 S for long (same engine) having just replaced the rear pads I can confirm they are expensive but these are premium sports cars. I had an intermittent misfire which was nothing major (ignition coil). I took it to Autoclass in MK who said that it was rare for this to happen when I questioned if I should expect the coils to need replacing.
I would only take it to MSL if I got one remapped. Part of the plan when getting one is to remap though.

I note you're in Bicester, not very far from me in Aylesbury.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom