W213, subwoofer upgrade possible?

[John]

I’m beginning to think I’ll have to bite the bullet and take it to an installer. Sounds as if it’s going to be expensive

You need to be quite adept at removing trim and nimble to access that area. It's the time taken to access it and install it properly that does make it a more expensive proposition, yes. The area may need soundproofing with sound deadening mat to stop resonance.

The good news is though that it's not wasted if you decide to carry on upgrading. Even if you end up adding an amp and DSP, it can still use whatever speakers you install / get installed.

The rainbow that I’ve just bought from Germany is an 8. I’ve been assured it’s a straight swap. Problem is how do I do it? I never had this problem with my RS2000 L.O.L.

I'm sure I read the 213 used a 6" woofer but having looked, I can only find evidence that supports the 8" is the correct driver. So it sounds like you have the correct replacement driver in that case thankfully!

I’m also waiting forACR Car Audio to get back to me and confirm the Rainbow 5.25 speakers will fit in the back doors. I’ll then get a price for fitting speakers + amp.

You should consider replacing the tweeters and mids in the front doors if you are going to the trouble of doing the woofers, rear doors and adding a sub. Rainbow do replacements for those as well although you could leave those to see if you are happy with the results.

I still wonder if you are going to achieve a good sound without a DSP but try it and see!

RS2000? ...yes, I too remember the old days of installing upgraded ICE. Having done my own in the 90s and early 00s for an 87 Opel Manta GTE, 89/90 Astra GTE 16V x 2, 90 XR3i, 93 E36 325i, 97 E36 M3 Evo, 97 E36 328i, I remember how easy it was despite the gradual incline in complexity in what I installed. I even had the seats out in the XR3i to mount the amps underneath!

If you adept at removing trim, it's probably a lot quicker.

My problems these days are not being the most nimble any more, not being the youngest any more and just the time it takes a novice to remove the correct trim, and knowing the pitfalls of what you are putting where.

Also the kit and safety in cars is a lot more complicated than back then - you don't want to interfere with anything that might not work as it should... not to mention you can't just remove the headunit, replace and run some RCAs and other cables front to back so easily as it's all on a fibre-optic "MOST" ring until after the factory AGW. Also having diagnostics is helpful to ensure you've not messed anything up when refitting everything.

It's a nightmare for the amateur!

I'm not an expert nor professional btw, just an amateur with some experience and a personal interest in it.

Be interesting to hear what you think though...

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

I’m also waiting forACR Car Audio to get back to me and confirm the Rainbow 5.25 speakers will fit in the back doors. I’ll then get a price for fitting speakers + amp.

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

Hi john it all sounds above my pay grade. I’ve already changed the front doors with rainbows Took a couple of hours. I only wish the rest was that easy

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

Update. This is getting frustrating. No one has come back with a quote. That’s 4 installers and two suppliers. Autosounds (the biggest in the northeast of England)has ignored 2 emails and haven’t returned 4 phone calls. In the mean time I’ve just got my hands on a Rainbow 12 inch sub to add to the installation.

 

[John]

Update. This is getting frustrating. No one has come back with a quote. That’s 4 installers and two suppliers. Autosounds (the biggest in the northeast of England)has ignored 2 emails and haven’t returned 4 phone calls. In the mean time I’ve just got my hands on a Rainbow 12 inch sub to add to the installation.

I've been there myself with my own vehicle. It seems as if most companies are not interested in doing the work.

Saying that, I find this to be the case with the trade in general actually.

I'm sure they couldn't care less but on a level as a fellow human being, I'd have more respect for them if they just took 5 seconds of their life to say they aren't interested.

Fine, no problem.

But saying nothing and you waste your time chasing them. Perhaps they have enough work to cherry-pick what they want to do or presume because you've emailed / phoned them that you are some secret timewaster.

Although I only give one chance now to avoid wasting my own time as they are timewasters.

Those who aren't do come back and normally I find them to be the best companies to work with and build a working relationship with. Things change of course but generally it works.

Try Comand Online on here (see post #2). I've found Richard and the team to be very helpful. They are also very well-regarded on here.

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

‘It’s a shocking way to do business. After ringing “ Autosounds” for the 4th time I finally got an estimate of £38.00 an hour plus parts and approximately 10 hrs work
I’ll ring COMAND and get their views. At the end of the day all I want is some BL#%*Y speakers fitted in my car

 

[John]

It's not a cheap game this one but if you enjoy your music as much as I do, it is worth some outlay.

It takes time and skill to remove multiple trim parts and fit the new speakers properly.

So I would say keep an open mind on the cost.

The alternative is getting access to WIS yourself and having a go.

Had there been more than just a video on how to remove my door cards out there I might have had a go but as it was, I couldn't find one and nor did I have access to WIS.

Once I'd reached that stage I'd lost inclination and motivation.

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

The story is getting interesting. Give me a few days and I may have some really interesting news that could help a lot of people.

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

One company came back and quoted £5000 and other £2000. Two more came back and said they wouldn’t fit used gear and declined the job (I didn’t press the 0 to many times but I think they must have.)
Then a minor miracle. Three miles from where I live is an an online business called Allwoodsaudio. The guys who work there come from a background that I am familiar with (designing and installing high end demonstration and competitions car audio systems.)
After 2/3 emails I spoke to them on the phone. Hugely knowledgeable,friendly and listened to my budget and requirements. Their can do attitude has left me very confident they can put together a system for me.
They have to check some things out and then they’ll get back to me. I’ll give an update as things progress so everyone please cross your fingers

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

Very quick update. All woods audio are installing tomorrow. Two 8 inch woofers in foot wells and an amplifier. They’ve advised me to deer sub in boot until I hear results. They reckon I’ll be blown away.
Watch this space.

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

Wow,I collected my car late afternoon and I’m blown away by the fantastic quality that has been created in my car. My new system is all plug and play. Relatively easy to install,relatively easy to take out ready for my next car. Allwoods really are leaps and bounds ahead of the pack. I’m told it’s all new technology for Mercedes and I am the first to have this German designed system installed in a right hand drive car. The sound is incredible with everything upfront where it should be. Mids and highs in doors and subs in foot wells. The rear door speakers are retained but only used for fill Everything in factory positions and nothing tampered with. The clarity,sound stage and fullness of sound has to be heard to be believed. Although everything is set up for listening in the drivers seat a flick of a switch and the settings change to passenger seat. After two months of searching and tearing my hair out I am now one very happy bunny. Allwoods by the way have contacts around the u,k.that can install products they supply.

 

[John]

Lol, sounds like you work for them now!

That's a great result - shame you can't capture sound quality to send it on.

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

Hi John, I’ve just re read my post. Your right they should be paying me commission l.o.l.
I’m certainly enthusiastic. Plug and play is the way forward. Modern cars are incredibly hard to work with and the less the car is interfered with the better. Plus the savings in labour are enormous,the job took 4 hours total. People were talking about 3 hours labour just to get the cable through the firewall.

 

[Doncius]

I had the same experience with my W213. Standart sound - awfull. Zero bass. I installed Helix sub 12'+Helix amp. Now the sound is just Perfect. Everything cost ~700eur.

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

Hi Doncius, how easy did you find the wiring

 

[Doncius]

I left to the guys who knows how to do this

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

Yep that’s what I did lol

 

[Drinksjdalot]

Hi everyone

Sorry if I'm hi-jacking this thread but I too have been desperately searching for an audio upgrade for my 2019 W213 - and stumbled upon this thread. I've owned a number of 5 series for around twenty years and became used to DIY upgrades of poor car audio. Now I face the same challenge for a different car.
Over the years I got to know Alan (sales manager) at midbass.com and Gary (owner) at Audiofile-Incar. Both were extremely helpful and honest in my quest for 'proper' car audio. However, what these two extremely helpful people offer differs greatly. Midbass offer good quality plug and play equipment whereas Audiofile-Incar offer bespoke/custom setups - mainly for BMW but they will tackle any car I am sure.

Before I start babbling on too much, I recently contacted Midbass.com who offered the following Audiotec Fischer 'plug and play' upgrade options to a 2019 W213...

Stage 1 – standard sound system:

Stage 1.1: 660 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH M 5DSP MK2 + PP-MQS 1.4 + UP W8MB-S4 single (single co-driver firewall subwoofer / available from January)

Or

Stage 1.2: 800 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH M 5DSP MK2 + PP-MQS 1.4 + UP W8MB-S4 (both connected in parallel to the mono output of the M 5DSP MK2 / 1 x 2 Ohms)

Stage 2 – standard sound system:

Stage 2.1: 800 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH M 5DSP MK2 + PP-MQS 1.4 + UP W8MB-S4 (both connected in parallel to the mono output of the M 5DSP MK2 / 1 x 2 Ohms)
+ UP C42MB-FRT (or UP X4MB-FRT)

Or

Stage 2.2: 800 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH M 5DSP MK2 + PP-MQS 1.4

+ UP W8MB-S4 (both connected in parallel to the mono output of the M 5DSP MK2 / 1 x 2 Ohms) + UP C42MB-FRT (or UP X4MB-FRT)

+ UP X4MB-FRT

Stage 3 – standard sound system:

Stage 3.1: 1290 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH UP 7DSP + PP-MQS 1.4

+ UP W8MB-S4 (each connected to an individual subwoofer output of the UP 7DSP) + UP C42MB-FRT (or UP X4MB-FRT)

+ UP S4MB-CTR

Or

Stage 3.2: 1290 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH UP 7DSP + PP-MQS 1.4 + UP W8MB-S4 (each connected to an individual subwoofer output of the UP 7DSP)

+ UP C42MB-FRT (or UP X4MB-FRT) + UP X4MB-FRT + UP S4MB-CTR


Also, please remember, it's not just the speakers and amp that can make a huge difference. Also consider some sound deadening material like Dynamat Xtreme or Skinz. You are after all, basically, sitting in a tin box which will resonate. It takes a little more effort and can be time consuming but the effect will transform your system. Trust me... I found this out the hard way after years of experience. In addition to this, think about a proper DSP (digital signal processor). Unlike the HiFi in your house you are sitting to one side in your car. You will need a proper DSP to even out the balance and timing so that a proper soundstage and imagery can be attained. Some amps come with their own whilst other DSPs come on their own. A favourite of mine is the Audison Bit Ten.

After doing this for years I am becoming tired of ripping my new car apart so I am going to opt for an easier path and go with the 3.2 plug and play option. Granted the quality will not be as good as a bespoke system from Audiofile-Incar but I still get a kick out of saying... I did that (and not feeling so clever when friends as if I can do the same to their car !).

Just food for thought...

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

Hi everyone

Sorry if I'm hi-jacking this thread but I too have been desperately searching for an audio upgrade for my 2019 W213 - and stumbled upon this thread. I've owned a number of 5 series for around twenty years and became used to DIY upgrades of poor car audio. Now I face the same challenge for a different car.
Over the years I got to know Alan (sales manager) at midbass.com and Gary (owner) at Audiofile-Incar. Both were extremely helpful and honest in my quest for 'proper' car audio. However, what these two extremely helpful people offer differs greatly. Midbass offer good quality plug and play equipment whereas Audiofile-Incar offer bespoke/custom setups - mainly for BMW but they will tackle any car I am sure.

Before I start babbling on too much, I recently contacted Midbass.com who offered the following Audiotec Fischer 'plug and play' upgrade options to a 2019 W213...

Stage 1 – standard sound system:

Stage 1.1: 660 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH M 5DSP MK2 + PP-MQS 1.4 + UP W8MB-S4 single (single co-driver firewall subwoofer / available from January)

Or

Stage 1.2: 800 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH M 5DSP MK2 + PP-MQS 1.4 + UP W8MB-S4 (both connected in parallel to the mono output of the M 5DSP MK2 / 1 x 2 Ohms)

Stage 2 – standard sound system:

Stage 2.1: 800 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH M 5DSP MK2 + PP-MQS 1.4 + UP W8MB-S4 (both connected in parallel to the mono output of the M 5DSP MK2 / 1 x 2 Ohms)
+ UP C42MB-FRT (or UP X4MB-FRT)

Or

Stage 2.2: 800 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH M 5DSP MK2 + PP-MQS 1.4

+ UP W8MB-S4 (both connected in parallel to the mono output of the M 5DSP MK2 / 1 x 2 Ohms) + UP C42MB-FRT (or UP X4MB-FRT)

+ UP X4MB-FRT

Stage 3 – standard sound system:

Stage 3.1: 1290 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH UP 7DSP + PP-MQS 1.4

+ UP W8MB-S4 (each connected to an individual subwoofer output of the UP 7DSP) + UP C42MB-FRT (or UP X4MB-FRT)

+ UP S4MB-CTR

Or

Stage 3.2: 1290 Watts sound upgrade

• MATCH UP 7DSP + PP-MQS 1.4 + UP W8MB-S4 (each connected to an individual subwoofer output of the UP 7DSP)

+ UP C42MB-FRT (or UP X4MB-FRT) + UP X4MB-FRT + UP S4MB-CTR


Also, please remember, it's not just the speakers and amp that can make a huge difference. Also consider some sound deadening material like Dynamat Xtreme or Skinz. You are after all, basically, sitting in a tin box which will resonate. It takes a little more effort and can be time consuming but the effect will transform your system. Trust me... I found this out the hard way after years of experience. In addition to this, think about a proper DSP (digital signal processor). Unlike the HiFi in your house you are sitting to one side in your car. You will need a proper DSP to even out the balance and timing so that a proper soundstage and imagery can be attained. Some amps come with their own whilst other DSPs come on their own. A favourite of mine is the Audison Bit Ten.

After doing this for years I am becoming tired of ripping my new car apart so I am going to opt for an easier path and go with the 3.2 plug and play option. Granted the quality will not be as good as a bespoke system from Audiofile-Incar but I still get a kick out of saying... I did that (and not feeling so clever when friends as if I can do the same to their car !).

Just food for thought...

 

[Mrrickenbacher]

The other big advantage with plug and play is it can easily be swapped out when you buy a new car. The car goes back to factory speck and you can sell or reuse your expensive gear.