Warped discs

[rayaans]

Why is it OK to not reveal faults to a dealer?

People complain about dealers not preparing care for sale properly but think it is perfectly OK to conceal faults when trading in.

Cos we're not stupid enough to not know that theyll make £3k off a 17 plate E-class and have a continengy for issues they find (which they stick in expenses anyway), yet they'll happily charge top dollar to try and flog a poorly prepared car if they could get away with it.

 

[DSM10000]

Cos we're not stupid enough to not know that theyll make £3k off a 17 plate E-class and have a continengy for issues they find (which they stick in expenses anyway), yet they'll happily charge top dollar to try and flog a poorly prepared car if they could get away with it.

Ah right . I didn't realise that you had expertise in the used car market and that you were privy to the financial dealings of that market

 

[BlackC55]

Special procedure? Can you elaborate? I thought you just cleaned the hub and slide them on, tighten the disc screw and the wheel holds them tight and square ?

The discs are very fragile hence the packaging they come in. Make sure the box is free of damage before fitting. If the disc is dropped its no longer useable. The hub has to be absolutely immaculate before fitting the new disc. The smallest raised lump of corrosion will result in the discs warping.

When the wheel is fitted back on the wheel bolts have to be wound hand tight and then torqued to 20-30NM in a star pattern firstly and then to 130NM finally. (torque settings vary depending on model)

The brake pad mounting points also have to be perfectly clean to allow even pad pressure and use top quality pad grease. Never EVER copper grease.

When the pads are bedded in be very gentle.

 

[BlackC55]

Motorway miles does not cause overheating as you hardly ever use the brakes. You say you don't do heavy braking which then suggests that a piston is sticking keeping a pad against the disc which will cause overheating & blueing. Also any competent garage can do brakes. They all work the same on all cars, Mercedes aren't magic, (there is a sequence for winding back the parking brake) but decent garages know this so you don't need a main dealer or indi

Sometimes you do as not many garages know the correct procedure.

 

[BlackC55]

Bought a clk recently, brakes were ok initially then started to get the usual brake judder which I've had on all my mercs, all pads needed replacing which was a breeze apart from the passenger side front this time (it's normally the rears in my experience) due to a sticky caliper piston. Managed to get the piston back in to get the new pads in and all was well for a couple of weeks then slowly but surely the judder started again as I expected. I do 800 miles a week in the car so the judder always returns between 1000 and 2000 miles after pads replaced. Replacing all or offending calipers is always my fix

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[BlackC55]

Oh and don't use the hold feature.

 

[Tsb1983]

I think these problems arise few and far between. More than likely a fitting issue rather than a faulty set of discs/pads

 

[chic0821]

Sometimes you do as not many garages know the correct procedure.

I did my own, (pretty much as you said) so if I can manage it, I'm sure any garage can do it. I fitted carbon ceramic pads for no dust & the break in procedure was anything but gentle according to the manufacturer. From memory 50mph, 5 hard stops down to 10mph. then same at 30mph another 5 hard stops down to 10 mph, then drive for 10-15 mins without braking to a stop to let the pads cool down. Not the easiest thing to arrange as you don't really want any cars behind when your acting like an idiot jumping on the brakes 10 times. I figured out a route & did it one Sunday morning about 6am

 

[ALFAitalia]

Much the same bedding in instructions as EBC yellow stuff pads.....

 

[geoffus]

The discs are very fragile hence the packaging they come in. Make sure the box is free of damage before fitting. If the disc is dropped its no longer useable. The hub has to be absolutely immaculate before fitting the new disc. The smallest raised lump of corrosion will result in the discs warping.

When the wheel is fitted back on the wheel bolts have to be wound hand tight and then torqued to 20-30NM in a star pattern firstly and then to 130NM finally. (torque settings vary depending on model)

The brake pad mounting points also have to be perfectly clean to allow even pad pressure and use top quality pad grease. Never EVER copper grease.

When the pads are bedded in be very gentle.

Pretty obvious for most decent capable DIY and mechanics.
Funnily enough though I had my front alloy wheel repaired recently, when the young lad refitted it he tightened the wheel nuts clockwise, not diagonally !!

 

[BlackC55]

Pretty obvious for most decent capable DIY and mechanics.
Funnily enough though I had my front alloy wheel repaired recently, when the young lad refitted it he tightened the wheel nuts clockwise, not diagonally !!

That is fine to do that. As long as the hub and wheel is spotless on your car.

 

[jaffajim0]

Motorway miles does not cause overheating as you hardly ever use the brakes. You say you don't do heavy braking which then suggests that a piston is sticking keeping a pad against the disc which will cause overheating & blueing. Also any competent garage can do brakes. They all work the same on all cars, Mercedes aren't magic, (there is a sequence for winding back the parking brake) but decent garages know this so you don't need a main dealer or indi

While there’s a problem I want to stick with the main dealer as I feel they have a responsibility if they’ve not cleared the original problem.