Waxoyl drying time?

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KLP 92

MB Enthusiast
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I wonder if anyone can help me.

I purchased some waxoyl some time ago, the stuff that come in the 5 litre can. I wanted to waxoyl the boot of the SEC so i checked the can and made sure its suitable.

Anyway i waxoyled the entire boot, but 10 hours later there is no sign of this stuff drying! Does anyone know how long it takes for it to dry? there is nothing written on the can for drying time and i hoped to have everything put back today!

Is there any way to speed the process up?

Thanks
 
It should have all dried within 10hrs...:crazy:

Prior to use did you leave the waxoyl container in a bucket of warm water so that it was nice and runny to use/apply prior to use?
 
It never sets/dries totally.
Always stays waxy/slightly sticky.
Whenever I use it I warm the can up & use it as sparingly as possible.
The smell is the worse part in a car it can linger for weeks.
 
It should have all dried within 10hrs...:crazy:

Prior to use did you leave the waxoyl container in a bucket of warm water so that it was nice and runny to use/apply prior to use?


Yep, followed the instructions! It was thin enough when i used it.
 
It never sets/dries totally.
Always stays waxy/slightly sticky.
Whenever I use it I warm the can up & use it as sparingly as possible.
The smell is the worse part in a car it can linger for weeks.

My garage stinks of it! I'm leaving the boot open till it clears, i don't want the new leather smelling of it!

Should have used a tin of Hammerite of something that actually dries!

Do you know how longs it takes to get past the wet touch phase?
 
My garage stinks of it! I'm leaving the boot open till it clears, i don't want the new leather smelling of it!

About 6 weeks then:crazy:

When I used to do it, I had a low bake oven that I used to warm the cars up in first, then take them out to spray them, then pop them back in for an hour.
Bone dry.
 
About 6 weeks then:crazy:

When I used to do it, I had a low bake oven that I used to warm the cars up in first, then take them out to spray them, then pop them back in for an hour.
Bone dry.

I tried putting a heater in the boot, but as i shut the bootlid i noticed the smells travel into the cabin of the car :crazy:

I was meant to finish my boot install today, well looks like its being delayed a few weeks.
 
Waxoyling is really a job best done in summer to allow the liquid to creep into joints and seams without "freezing" on cold metal and also to speed up the white spirit fuming off. Even then it takes a week for the pong reduce to a faint-ish whiff.

If you do it in cool or cold weather may find the patches where the wax is thicker "slumps" in warmer weather.
 
Waxoyling is really a job best done in summer to allow the liquid to creep into joints and seams without "freezing" on cold metal and also to speed up the white spirit fuming off. Even then it takes a week for the pong reduce to a faint-ish whiff.

If you do it in cool or cold weather may find the patches where the wax is thicker "slumps" in warmer weather.

Yep, we learn form our mistakes!

The prob was that the caprets had to come out to reinstall the system, once installed i won't take it out again due to the sheer wiring involved!

Well looks like a heater is going into the garage!
 
A few years ago when I bought my first brand new car I decided to give it the full waxoyl treatment when it was just days old.
Only problem with that was I sprayed the underside, inside doors/quarters, wheel arches & even took the seats & carpet out.

The car didn't smell like a new car for at least a month or two.
I did the waxoyling in august (when the new reg used to come out) & every sunny warm day you could tell where it was parked in the company car park as it left puddles of melted waxoyl from the drain holes etc.

Surprisingly enough the car stayed rust free when all the rest of the same year had started to rust quite badly, in fact I would probably still have owned it now (as a second car), if it hadn't been written off.

I am a firm believer in waxoyl & will continue to use it on all my cars.
 
KLP
Just leave it to dry off naturally. The longer it has to dry the better it works and creeps.
Don't worry about the smell it won't affect anything as it's just the spirit vapours, there are no particles to get into any other material.

If you REALLY want waxoyl to work long therm mix it with Millers Rust Oil about 5-10%. This creates avery fine coating that works much better than Waxoyl and won't ever peel or slump off.
 
Mte i waxoyled the boot in my W123 in 1999 and it still hasnt dried... my black gym trainers are living proof (they used to be white)...
 
My main concern would be the smell....it lingers and lingers and lingers....if it were me, I would get the stuff off and only use it externally on the car
 
My main concern would be the smell....it lingers and lingers and lingers....if it were me, I would get the stuff off and only use it externally on the car

Your right, I can't image why people are using it internally when there are more modern formulations with no smell.

adam
 
Your right, I can't image why people are using it internally when there are more modern formulations with no smell.

adam

Such as, please?
 
I used it in the boot as anyone that know the SEC or any W126 suffer from leaking rear screens which results in standing water in the boot area.

Yes you can get modern formulas but they are not as good as the original waxoyl.

Anyway, its getting to the touch dry phase, i reckon it will be dry enough in a few days to refit the booth trim and amps. Smell isn't too bad either, its just in the boot area.

I used a another spray type for the internals of the car, but it literally was black spray paint. The waxoyl stuff looks likes its more effective, time will tell.
 
Navs , i know this is a bit late now that you've done it , and if it's a dumb idea, i apologise ...

Could you have sprayed the internal panels with underseal , like people used to on old cars ....

Dries a bit textured and rubbery ... you know what i mean ...
 
Navs , i know this is a bit late now that you've done it , and if it's a dumb idea, i apologise ...

Could you have sprayed the internal panels with underseal , like people used to on old cars ....

Dries a bit textured and rubbery ... you know what i mean ...


I used a spray i got from Halfords. Its actually a sound deadener with built in rust inhibitor/sealant taht i used in the doors and under the seats while the interior was out. Thought might as well, restored the rest of the car so it made sense to recoat the inside as well.

There wasn't any rust in the car, just some surface rust in the boot which i removed with a wire brush. The spray i used for the interior didn't really look effective against rust so i decided to stick with the original stuff.
 

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