weird electrics problems w202

[LCN]

Hello,

I have a couple of electronic issues with my update w202:


1.

A few days ago I noticed the BAS light flickering to the beat of my sub woofers lol. And the coolant light was coming on and flicking off every so often. I read that it has something to do with low voltage in the system so it is turning itself on and off.

I don't know what would have caused the coolant light to come on every so often? It was a pretty hot night and was in bumper to bumper traffic for atleast 2 hours but the coolant tank is full.

Also I disconnected the battery the other day and had to get into the boot via the engine bay with jumper cables, no problem just reconnected the battery, reset the windows but forgot to do the full lock to lock steering reset. After I did the lock to lock reset of the steering wheel the bas light didn't seem to flicker and I didn't see the coolant light again but by this time I was out of the traffic.


2.

At the moment I have the left door panel off as I was running the wires from the sill to the door for the w210 mirror install. I had the indicator wire tapped already but it wasn't hooked up to the mirror yet, was just taped up on the door (just waiting on some plugs from the dealership, was originally going to cut wires on the mirror but will wait now).

Now when I lock the car with the remote the indicator lights don't flash. But when I unlock the car with the remote the indicator lights do flash.

I remember the indicator lights don't flash when you are locking the car with the remote if a door isn't closed properly, is the door panel being off somehow causing this? How does it know that the door panel is off?

And another thing, in the upper console where the lock and unlock / warning lights / head rest dropper buttons are, the lock button doesn't work on this anymore. But the unlock function does work on this button. Is this related to the door panel being off?

All the locking and unlocking functions have been acting like this since the door panel has been off, this never happened before.

Thanks.

 

[i8000]

Well DRM, those bass units certainly suck some power, and it has been mentioned that a drop in voltage can cause the BAS/ESP light to flicker.

Do you know what your water temperature guage was reading when the warning light came on? If it stays on I'd be concerned, but if it goes off maybe it's not too critical.

Perhaps if you're still having problems with the waterr temperature then your cooling system may need to be flushed (if possible)

I'd say that's your answer for number 1.

As for number 2, maybe someone else can help....

 

[evdok]

Me think loose wire, but me might be wrong!

 

[richard]

Sounds like an inability for the battery/charging system to supply enough current for the car's needs.

Check the battery contacts, follow the negative wire from the battery and make sure where it attaches to the chassis isn't corroded

Check the alternator is working, put a voltmeter set on AC on the battery while engine is running, should show 0, switch it to DC should show just below 14V.

Also have the local kwikfit do a battery test with their electronic battery tester


R

 

[LCN]

thanks for the posts guys.

i8000, the water temperature guage seemed to be normal for the temperature I was in and I haven't seen the lights come up since?

richard, yeah I better take the car and get them to do a test, I had the stereo blaring for about two hours so maybe in bumper to bumper traffic the car wasn't charging the battery enough to keep up with the huge drain?

And any thoughts on number 2? I wonder why the central locking isn't locking with the button on the console, yet when I click on it to unlock it unlocks the car? I think it would have to be related to the door panel being off but still I would prefer to know that before I put it back on and then have to take it off again to fix it

 

[Only me]

Hi,

Your door panel being removed is probably your No 2. problem
I can confirm that removing the rear door panel on my w202 (I was messing around changing speakers etc,) caused the indicators to not flash when locking the doors with the remote.
The doors locked OK but the indicators didn't flash.
On unlocking, they did flash as normal.

Removing the door panel meant the door switch was not depressed so far - I guess that made the car think the doors were open.
All went back to normal after the door panel was replaced.


Good luck

GB

 

[LCN]

Hey GB,

Thanks for the reply mate! I was hoping it had something to do with the panel being removed .

Thanks!

 

[Howard]

Hi DRM ,

Just a question , how powerful are your amps ?

I only ask as a pal of mine had an old rover a few years back and he had two Kenwood KAC1021's in it at a 1000w a piece.....

This used to make the headlights flash when up loud , big amps draw lots of current , and if you are just ticking over in traffic , i imagine they are pulling more than you are charging .....

Good luck

H

 

[LCN]

Hi DRM ,

Just a question , how powerful are your amps ?

I only ask as a pal of mine had an old rover a few years back and he had two Kenwood KAC1021's in it at a 1000w a piece.....

This used to make the headlights flash when up loud , big amps draw lots of current , and if you are just ticking over in traffic , i imagine they are pulling more than you are charging .....

Good luck

H

Hello Howard,

Yes my amps together are 1500. I think that's what the problem was, a couple of hours with that running . Sometimes I can see the drain in the headlights, interior lights and rear lights but usually it is okay!

In the near future I might invest in a optima yellow top battery! Does anyone by chance happen to know the part number for the Optima Yellow Top that will fit into an update W202?

Thanks.

 

[Howard]

Might be better to put a second battery in and a split charge system if you are keeping the car for a while .....

 

[stuboy]

Number 2!

I can definitely confirm that the lack door trim causes the problem, its the little plastic bits around the lock can you believe!
I have installed a pretty sizable stereo in my W202 estate with an 18" 800W (real watts not car imaginary watts!) sub that sits just inside the spare wheel on a baffle i made to replace the original, tweeters in the top od the dash and i managed to squeeze 8" drivers in the doors with a bit of help from some MDF.
I built a 10 channel 3 way active amp to power it all and it sounds ok

Cheers
Stuart

 

[LCN]

Thanks for the confirmation Stuart. Wow that's huge, how does the 18" sub sound? And 8" in the door, nice work . Have you got any pictures you could post up?

 

[Dieselman]

Hello Howard,

Yes my amps together are 1500. I think that's what the problem was, a couple of hours with that running . Sometimes I can see the drain in the headlights, interior lights and rear lights but usually it is okay!

In the near future I might invest in a optima yellow top battery! Does anyone by chance happen to know the part number for the Optima Yellow Top that will fit into an update W202?

Thanks.

I don't think a new battery will help here, you need a higher rated alternator. Fit one of a high output engine or turbodiesel as they have much beefier jobbies.

 

[LCN]

I don't think a new battery will help here, you need a higher rated alternator. Fit one of a high output engine or turbodiesel as they have much beefier jobbies.

Okay I am kind of confused.

So an optima yellow top wouldn't do the job? Is it better to get a bigger alternator and keep the battery that is in there at the moment?

So the rotation of the alternator depend on the engine and if this doesn't change how will the alternator generate more electricity if I am stuck in traffic like last time?

And to put a second battery in and a split charge system wouldn't this also depend on the alternator so I assume this battery drain might just take twice as longer? How does this system work?

Thanks.

 

[tim.100]

I had the stereo blaring for about two hours so maybe in bumper to bumper traffic the car wasn't charging the battery enough to keep up with the huge drain?

Well I hope everyone enjoyed your music. I'm glad I wasn't stuck with you there!

Killjoy!

 

[LCN]

lol! grumpy old man anyone?

 

[lexie]

i guess the power available from the alternator will vary depending on:

1) rotation speed
2) number/amount of windings and type of wire used within
3) magnets