What polish after clay cloth. First time detailing

[nixy]

Hi could someone recommend a polish to use after using a clay cloth. Its my first attempt as a newbie.

I have this cloth from Halfords
Farecla G3 Body Prep Clay Mitt

But I'v read thats not the end of the process. You have to apply a polish and can't jump straight to waxing.

Also how do I apply the polish? Do I need a radom orbit finisher or can it be done by hand.

In summary.
1) What polish?
2) Do I need a electric polishing tool? Is there a budget version to buy.
3) What polishing pads do I need to buy.Hand or electric?
4) Possibly recommend a wax for after use (though I do have some Meguiars liquid wax)

Already have a bottle of this Meguiars liquid wax.
Meguiars Gold Class Liquid Car Wax....

Btw... I also have a wood working random orbit sander with velcro attachment + variable speed. If that helps.

Edit - colour is Mercedes Obsidian Black

Thanks

 

[whitenemesis]

You can apply a wax finish (by hand) now, without further processes. You don't need a power polisher

Personally I would, after claying, apply a couple of coats of a sealant such as Carlack'68 to help protect the paint. Finish off with a nice coat or two of Collinite 915 The Meg's you already have is also a fine wax)

ETA - A polish is not a finish but a compound used to remove swirls/scratches etc..

 

[Chappie350]

Hi,

There's loads of decent polishes out there you can try and i'm sure there will be someone along who knows more than me about it.

What worked for me was firstly using Autoglym Paint Cleanser after clay bar / mitt to give a really clean surface to polish onto. Then used good old Autoglym Super Resin Polish (although Ultra Deep Shine might work better on black) and then sealed it with 2 coats of Finishkare sealant....all by hand.

I only use machine polish if trying to remove swirls and would do this ahead of applying any wax etc.

Cheers

 

[tanuie]

I have just bought some Colinite 915, yet to try it but will do so in the next couple of days, mine is also obsidian black so hopefully it should look good.

 

[Sanke]

If starting out, I'd recommend Autoglym Super Resin Polish, you can do it by hand after the clay. It's not wholly aggressive and should remove and fill minor defects.

Then a sealent or long life wax. Presently Fusso Soft 99 is a favourite of mine.

Steve

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[Chrishazle]

I'm not keen on AG SRP as it has a lot of chalk filler in it (to mask swirls etc) so it leaves white marks along any places like seal edges etc. OK, it's a lot more expensive, but I prefer 3M Perfect-it.

 

[Sanke]

True, but the OP is looking at a newbie first effort. I use 3M too, Ultrafina is perfect.

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[Chrishazle]

Guess it depends on the state of play after claying. If there's lots of microscratches, swirls etc then a paint correction comes first, then a polish that does not have loads of filler (as it will not then need filler!) then a good wax.

Do it once, do it right!

 

[nixy]

Thanks all for advice so far.

It sounds like I don't need a power polish unless my paint is really bad. It generally looks ok in terms of no-swirl marks. Just a few weird looking marks of dull paint about the size of a 20p coin. Also a patch of slightly rougher feeling paint by the front wheel arch (perhaps from wheel spray).

Was thinking this could be just surface paint contaminants.

In summary I was going to do the following.

1. Wash with microfiber mitt (water+ shampoo)
2. Clay mitt any bad or dull looking areas with clean water+shampoo as lubricant.
3. Apply AutoGlym Super Resin Polish by hand as its easy to apply for a newbie
4. Meguiars Gold Class liquid wax with sponge - then hand buff with microfiber cloths. (Hopefully 2 coats for a tougher finish)

I'm hopping this sounds right as I'm not sure about the chemistry combinations of various liquids e.g one stripping off the other or mixing brands in the right sequence.

 

[daveenty]

In summary I was going to do the following.

1. Wash with microfiber mitt (water+ shampoo)

2 Buckets, 1 soapy with shampoo, 1 clean for rinsing the mitt.

2. Clay mitt any bad or dull looking areas with clean water+shampoo as lubricant.

Do it all, not just bits. You'll appreciate this at the end though it will take a bit longer. Just keep the mitt well lubricated, which the shampoo should do.

3. Apply AutoGlym Super Resin Polish by hand as its easy to apply for a newbie.

Before this, I'd give it a quick wash again then, when dry, go over it with something like Lime Prime Lite which is a cleaner. No comment on the polish as it's each to their own.

4. Meguiars Gold Class liquid wax with sponge - then hand buff with microfiber cloths. (Hopefully 2 coats for a tougher finish)

Again, no comment on the wax, different strokes and all that, though I do prefer a hard wax. Try to leave at least a day between coats if possible, though if not and you have to use it, wash it again before the second coat.

I'm hopping this sounds right as I'm not sure about the chemistry combinations of various liquids e.g one stripping off the other or mixing brands in the right sequence.

You should be fine with the above. After all, theoretically the worst that can happen is you won't get the finish you want, in which case just start again from step 3 onwards.

 

[Chrishazle]

Don't just clay the dull areas, do all the paintwork, you'll be surprised how much crap it takes off, especially first time! My clay bar only needs water as the lubricant, so I do not need to re-wash after claying. If you use shampoo in the lubricant I'd suggest re-washing the car after claying to remove any shampoo residue before polishing and waxing.

Edit - Dave beat me to it by 1 minute! I agree with his comment about wash and pre-clean between clay and polish!

 

[Alf Barnet]

Super resin is very forgiving, and coupled the Colinite you will get a good hard wearing result. Good luck!

 

[Jason1145]

What a good thread, I'm in the same boat as the OP so will take a lot of this on board too.
I Thought Super Resin Polish was laying down a protective coat all this time.... doh!
I now need to get a wax instead to protect it... any good waxes to recommend too?

 

[Chrishazle]

I find AG HD wax is good value for money - works as well or better than the Swissvax Onyx (£70 a pot!!) I tried. However, wax threads are a bit like oil threads, everyone has their view of what is best - a friend at PCGB, does a lot of concourses, will only use Swissvax Scaffenhausen or Best In Show, at about £150 a pot!! Collinite always gets a good write-up, although it's one I have not tried - over the years I've tried Mer (never again!), a couple of Meguires ones and a few others.

 

[Smw]

Join detailingworld forum and you'll have it all at your finger tips. If you're going to do it then do it properly.

Basic system for you could be

Snow foam

Rinse

Shampoo using 2 bucket method to prevent scratching

Rinse

Clay

Shampoo again

Rinse

Polish (this is what will give your paint the shine)

Wax or sealant (this is what protects the shiny paint)

Clean wheels and seal.

Never use a sponge, only a good quality wash mitt and buy decent drying towels and microfiber cloths. Buy seamless ones for anything to do with your painted surfaces as cheap, stitched edged ones will mark and leave fine scratches. If you want to actually remove any swirls and light scratches you'll need a machine. Doing it by hand will take weeks and destroy your limbs!

Most importantly is don't wash with dirty water and never, ever take your pride and joy to a £6 car wash or how ever much as they're terrible and will leave dozens of light swirls and scratches.

 

[Sanke]

Have to agree with Chris re the AG HD Wax vs more expensive wax.

There are a million combinations of wax, sealent, spray wax, spray sealent, quartz coating etc etc that you could try and never be happy with.

Personal favourite sealent is dodo supernatural nano hybrid, with Fusso light over the top and a weekly top up of 50/50 sonax bsd and CG V7.

Steve


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[CaptainRAVE]

Autoglym super resin polish followed by HDwax. Few better products out there.

 

[Chrishazle]

As I've said before, AG SRP is OK until you get to edges. It has lots of chalk filler that gets into nooks and crannies so you end up with white lines round the windscreen seals etc.

 

[Dinnie]

You can use the clay mitt on the glass areas too.

 

[stagwcb]

Just did my SLK 172 , it's got the smart titanium paint protection . Told by the sales man don't need to do anything other than wash it for a showroom finish, I asked if I could wax it if I wanted too he said yes . I contacted smart finish to check they did not bother to reply .
So I washed the car with a high quality shampoo . The paint dragged as you ran your hand on it . I then polished it with poor boys wax . Very easy to apply does not chalk or mark black trim and is very easy to polish off . The finish was great you could see your face in it and it is not expensive.

Works for me .

Michael.