whats the strongest glue to fix plastic?

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SilverSaloon

MB Enthusiast
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Mar 16, 2004
Messages
7,758
Car
1994 W124 E300D Estate, 1985 R107 280SL
hi

i need to glue a clip onto a bit of plastic trim that you move (its a seat switch). Unfortunatly, i've tried Araldite and the repair just breaks after a few uses.

can anyone recommend a stronger glue? the new part is over £50 new and probably £20 2nd hand if i can get one so i'd like to fix my existing switch if possible

TIA

derek
 
hi

i need to glue a clip onto a bit of plastic trim that you move (its a seat switch). Unfortunatly, i've tried Araldite and the repair just breaks after a few uses.

can anyone recommend a stronger glue? the new part is over £50 new and probably £20 2nd hand if i can get one so i'd like to fix my existing switch if possible

TIA

derek

It'll be the one they use to stick the wings on the euro fighter!

Dont know its name though.
 
hi

i need to glue a clip onto a bit of plastic trim that you move (its a seat switch). Unfortunatly, i've tried Araldite and the repair just breaks after a few uses.

can anyone recommend a stronger glue? the new part is over £50 new and probably £20 2nd hand if i can get one so i'd like to fix my existing switch if possible

TIA

derek

Teroson metal to metal sticks anything, it's what MB bodyshops use to stick Sprinter side panels on with.
 
Araldite or epoxy resin is a reasonable choice, but the surfaces need to be totally grease-free (meths is good) and abraded slightly if smooth / shiny. Once degreased even a finger touch is enough to contaminate the surface.

Thick (gap filling) cyanoacrylate (super glue) also works well with some plastics, but can cause white 'blooming'. Epoxy is a safer option.
 
the trim that is being repaired is hidden so dis-colour is not a problem (the switch clips onto the repair bit). Its the W124 electric seat switch (base) that i'm fixing. The bit i am fixing is very small and fiddly and the plastic to plastic contact isnt great - the bit that has broken is basically a plastic hollow "box" and its broken at the end so very little to stick to.
 
Most of the plastic parts in a car will be ABS (acrylobutylstearate) which is very hard to glue. Superglue and Araldite, as you've discovered, won't do it. The best adhesive I have found is the horribly messy stuff that plumbers use for joining plastic pipes. It takes a long time to set, during which the parts need to be supported in their final position.
 
Last edited:
the part identified below in GREEN is the bit that needs gluing:

seat_switch_id.gif
 
Part of getting a successful repair is the preparation prior to joining the 2 surfaces together. e.g. a plastic superglue I bought recently had a surface primer to prepare the surfaces prior to joining. It appeared to be pentane which is a hydrocarbon solvent. I know that metal glued with epoxy is often etched prior to being bonded so surface preparation is very important. The preview pages of this book are worth a look.-- http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=...+formaldehyde+glue&source=gbs_summary_s&cad=0
 
With a very small surface area you will probably struggle to get a sound repair.

The solvent/weld type adhesives are the best for plastics as they basically dissolve the surface layer of each piece allowing them to fuse together, but they are usually specific to the type of plastic and (as mentioned) they are not that easy to use.

If you go to a local model shop they will probably have a range of glues designed for different plastics (r/c car bodies, helicopter canopies, fuselage mouldings, etc.).
 
I repaired my freezer compartment the other week with model glue for airfix kits melts the plastic together, poss same stuff as mentioned above, still okay:)



Lynall
 
The other point to bear in mind is that your attempted repair has already contaminated the plastic surface - this may be impossible to remove completely.
 
Hi

thanks for everyone's replies and ideas. I look into each one of them!

Problem i have is that the part is very fiddily and also i have to be careful not to also bond the plastic in such a way the bit doesnt move anymore as it needs to move to move the seat so its tricky.

i think i can get the bit completely out if i remove the metal trim surrounding it but i've also put a wanted advert up on here to see if i can get a replacement.
 
If you can find it I'd use whatever the dishwasher monkeys use to glue the bits of Weetabix to the bowl.
 
I never knew that this forum had so many people with sticking skills:)
 
For £20 (maybe less) I'd just keep an eye out for a secondhand replacement one :)

By the time you've faffed about with it and spent a few £ on special glues, you'll have wished you just got another one :eek:

Will
 
For £20 (maybe less) I'd just keep an eye out for a secondhand replacement one :)

By the time you've faffed about with it and spent a few £ on special glues, you'll have wished you just got another one :eek:

Will

yeah i agree this is probably the best route. I think i will fix it again like i did before (maybe try and bond it better/rub it down/clean it well 1st etc) and then try to avoid using the switch until i can source a replacement part.

I think the fix was ok when used by someone (ie me) who knows it has been repaired and handle with great care...... someone else broke the repair as i guess they put too much pressure on it.
 
Have you thought of a glue gun? This is quite strong and with the heat of the glue it might melt into the plastic for a good bond.
 
Glue gun wouldn't cut it. The glue peels off plastic so easily, it's used for fixing cables in PC bezels a lot of the time.

I'd try the stealership. Chances are they can source a genuine MB replacement for a couple of quid if my experience with stuff like that is anything to go by. :)
 
Sometimes using a soldering iron and some additional plastic melted onto the joint - sort of plastic welding - will work. Great when the tabs break off. Not pretty.
 

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