Wheel Aligment

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Jordan12291257

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Joined
Mar 20, 2020
Messages
25
Location
England
Car
Mercedes CLA
I have recently hit a kerb in my car which buckled the wheel and caused some damage to plastics. I have had the buckled wheel straightened however I’ve taken my car to kwik fit and they have shown me a picture of the wheel alignement (see attached). After speaking with a family friend who owns a garage he tells me I can only have my wheels aligned at Mercedes themselves as Mercedes do not release the information? Not sure how correct this is hopefully someone can help. Would prefer to take it somewhere else other than Mercedes if possible as Mercedes will most likely be extortionate. 2E2558A1-E83F-4A02-8017-10B249549D89.jpeg2E2558A1-E83F-4A02-8017-10B249549D89.jpeg
 
I don't believe that is correct. There are many tyre shops with equipment that is pre-programmed with all MB model specs..
Obviously MB can do it but in some cases the dealership will farm out the work.

Have a search for tyre shops with Hunter alignment equipment.
 
Go and see Paul at Drury Lane Services in Oldham. He has the Hunter Hawk Eye set up and really knows his stuff on chassis alignment and steering geometry.
 
The information from your garage owning friend is incorrect. There are of course different skill and experience levels from specialists like Wheels in Motion and others, I took my car to a local Kwik fit place with a view to 'get it done properly' elsewhere at a later date.

No need , they had the latest 4 wheel alignment equipment and the guy doing the work spent a long time searching his database making sure he had selected the correct programme for my car as he had never seen a C55 AMG before.

My independent MB specialist does not do wheel alignment , he sends/takes any cars that need doing to a local outfit he trusts near his premises, it's not and MB workshop.
 
My local MB dealer don't do wheel alignment.

Fortunately I have a specialist wheel and tyre shop near me with the latest hunter equipment.
 
I am in the process of renewing both front and rear suspension on my 2002 W203. Im nearly ready to re fit the rear components, the question I have is..would I be better off having the rear suspension re aligned before taking the front off. There are indentations on the subframe lugs where the Cam bolts have been so I will set the arms as close as possible to those marks. I was thinking that the front would be needed as a reference point...any advice most welcome.. PS Ive also had the subframe off..
 
When I had mine done at Merc dealer last year it was £99 including VAT
Ditto but was some years back, on my CLS55 and the dealership reset the Airmatic ride height. All-in-all took him a good couple of hours! Great value. :thumb:
 
I seem to remember that the kwik fit place I took mine to offering a 're visit' package for around £100, I can't remember the details but it offered X amount of alignment checks over the next 12 month's.
 
I remember reading that camber bolts were only available from MB and were needed for adjustment? Not sure if this is still the case but might be what they were referring to. All other adjustments can be done. @wheels-inmotion is probably best to advise on this
 
The rear has an eccentric bolt on each side, the front had a slotted hole in the bushing effectively giving 3 options for front camber depending on where you insert the slotted bolt.
 
I seem to remember that the kwik fit place I took mine to offering a 're visit' package for around £100, I can't remember the details but it offered X amount of alignment checks over the next 12 month's.
That's right. It's called GEOCARE PLAN and you get 8 alignment tests and corrections in two years. I think it was £120 when I signed up early last year. I've booked my car in for a check next week, as it happens. I have mine done every three months and it has been out of alignment every time so far - probably due to the state of the roads in Hampshire and Surrey where I mostly drive.

In answer to the original poster, Kwik Fit can do alignment for Mercedes cars.
 
That's right. It's called GEOCARE PLAN and you get 8 alignment tests and corrections in two years. I think it was £120 when I signed up early last year. I've booked my car in for a check next week, as it happens. I have mine done every three months and it has been out of alignment every time so far - probably due to the state of the roads in Hampshire and Surrey where I mostly drive.

In answer to the original poster, Kwik Fit can do alignment for Mercedes cars.
I must admit I was a bit daft not to take them up on the offer, I think I paid 40 odd quid for the alignment and for about another 60 odd I could have had regular checks done. It's only a 10 minute drive for me and the state of out roads !
 
I remember reading that camber bolts were only available from MB and were needed for adjustment? Not sure if this is still the case...

This was the case for my previous W203, and for my current W204.
 
The rear has an eccentric bolt on each side, the front had a slotted hole in the bushing effectively giving 3 options for front camber depending on where you insert the slotted bolt.

Correct, though the slotted bolt isn't fitted from the factory, it's an aftermarket part.
 
Both front bolts are available from Mercedes Benz , A2203330171 has the slot and A2203330071 does not. The elsastomer bushing has ridges to suit either.
On my car the old bolt that came out had no slots in it so it was simply a case of the bolt could have only have come out from the centre position on the bushing so thats where the new one went in on re assembly.
 
I am in the process of renewing both front and rear suspension on my 2002 W203. Im nearly ready to re fit the rear components, the question I have is..would I be better off having the rear suspension re aligned before taking the front off. There are indentations on the subframe lugs where the Cam bolts have been so I will set the arms as close as possible to those marks. I was thinking that the front would be needed as a reference point...any advice most welcome.. PS Ive also had the subframe off..

If you go to a place with full computer alignment I think you'll be fine doing it all in one hit. If you go somewhere using old school tracking equipment they will be using the rear wheels as a reference for the front wheels and the front wheels as a reference for the rears. Even then with a bit of thought and skill you should be able to get everything set correctly as long as you set the camber before the toe.

You can set the camber yourself really quite accurately with a spirit level and some maths, for example on 17" rims a negative camber of 1 deg 20 min is 10mm gap at the top from vertical.

You can get an approximate front and rear toe angle (zero degrees) with a piece of string. You can wrap it round the middle of the rear tyre and put it taught alongside the front tyre and get the front tyre almost touching the string both sides of the wheel (with steering wheel straight ahead). That will allow you to get a reasonably approximate setting, and the steering wheel centred, if you've completely stripped the front end down. I've done it this way and it's been in spec when checked!
 
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If you go to a place with full computer alignment I think you'll be fine doing it all in one hit. If you go somewhere using old school tracking equipment they will be using the rear wheels as a reference for the front wheels and the front wheels as a reference for the rears. Even then with a bit of thought and skill you should be able to get everything set correctly as long as you set the camber before the toe.

You can set the camber yourself really quite accurately with a spirit level and some maths, for example on 17" rims a negative camber of 1 deg 20 min is 10mm gap at the top from vertical.

You can get an approximate front and rear toe angle (zero degrees) with a piece of string. You can wrap it round the middle of the rear tyre and put it taught alongside the front tyre and get the front tyre almost touching the string both sides of the wheel (with steering wheel straight ahead). That will allow you to get a reasonably approximate setting, and the steering wheel centred, if you've completely stripped the front end down. I've done it this way and it's been in spec when checked!
Thanks Jasonh..I was thinking of buying one of those Levels for the Camber where it has markings from Zero at the centre line...then degree markings right and left from that line...My Problem is my drive is not level whatsoever..but Im sure I could level the car out...the rear is about 3 foot off the ground but the front is wheels down so a bit of blocking should sort that out...I ant really mess it up more than it is right now can I...lol..
 
You can set the camber perfectly with just spirit level and a steel rule. Instead of the ruler some people find a socket with the desired diameter and that tends to nestle into the rim nicely.
 
Have you been given an after printout?
 

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