Wheel bearing advice

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momomo

MB Enthusiast
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Hi guys,

It's been a while. Hope everyone is safe and keeping well.

Looking for some advice. Car is a W212 E350cdi.

I think a wheel bearing on the front has had it or needs adjusting- there is a droning/humming sound above 40mph and a quite evident change in sound at 75mph without fail, every time.

I will be getting the car on a ramp this weekend and see how much play there is with the wheel and turn the wheels etc to confirm bearing being the issue. Now, the car has 130k+ miles and as far as I know, it has never had the wheel bearings replaced, adjusted or repacked with grease.

There are couple of options going forward and I'm looking for advise on what makes most sense.

1) I confirm the sound is due to wheel bearings. I pull the hub off. If the bearings look ok and don't have discolouration, markings, damage, all move freely and the races are all good inside the hub, I clean old grease out as best I can, pack OLD bearings with new MB grease and refit into hub etc. I will only be able to remove outside bearing and repack as the inner bearing has a seal on back which should not be reused I believe? And Im not sure if I can just purchase a new seal on its own.

Is this a false economy as they don't cost much and I should just replace with new bearings. If I'm correct, MB do not sell these and I would need to get a very good aftermarket bearings. MB only sell a complete hub with bearings already fitted I believe.

For reference:
Complete hub from MB is £210 each side.
Complete hub from Febi is £110 each side
New inner and outer bearings with seals kit from FAG, SKF, Febi £27 each side

2) Same as above but I get NEW bearings and seals, pack with new MB grease and fit into hub.

3) I should not reuse the old races due to mileage they've done and I should replace these as well if I'm replacing the bearings? If this is the case, I think I would just replace the whole hub with bearings and races already fitted to ensure no issues with removing and replacing the races. These will also come packed with new grease so a simple job.

4) Is all the above overkill and I just simply need to adjust the bearings as first port of call with the original bearings and the original grease lasting much longer than this mileage (I have no idea how long the bearings and grease last)- as mentioned above, they have never been adjusted. Should I use a dial indicator or follow the 'by feel' method a lot of people use when I adjust?

What ever is decided, I will be doing both sides.

As a final point, am I correct in thinking that rear bearings are non maintenance and sealed so there is no adjustment or greasing ever done on these.

Sorry for the long post, bad habit.

Thanks
 
Is this a false economy as they don't cost much and I should just replace with new bearings. If I'm correct, MB do not sell these and I would need to get a very good aftermarket bearings. MB only sell a complete hub with bearings already fitted I believe.

I was misinformed it seems. MB do sell the bearings separately without need to buy whole hub.
 
If there's a noise from the wheel bearing... then it's too late for and adjustment. You'll need a new one.

The time to adjust it is when you feel the play, but it's still quiet. This is why they need to be checked regularly and adjusted as soon as there's excessive play. BTW, if there was excessive play, then this should have come up as an advisory on the MOT.

That said... at 130k miles, it may have come to the end of its service life anyway, regardless of any adjustments. At this point I would replace both sides.
 
If there's a noise from the wheel bearing... then it's too late for and adjustment. You'll need a new one.

The time to adjust it is when you feel the play, but it's still quiet. This is why they need to be checked regularly and adjusted as soon as there's excessive play. BTW, if there was excessive play, then this should have come up as an advisory on the MOT.

That said... at 130k miles, it may have come to the end of its service life anyway, regardless of any adjustments. At this point I would replace both sides.

Thank you for the reply. Ok yes that makes sense. Is it bad practice to not replace the races if fitting new bearings? I have heard conflicting things. I would of thought, if the races are not scoured or show any signs of damage, then it would be ok. But someone with experience would know better.
 
You can buy high quality bearings from any bearing and seal store, save some money
 
Thank you for the reply. Ok yes that makes sense. Is it bad practice to not replace the races if fitting new bearings? I have heard conflicting things. I would of thought, if the races are not scoured or show any signs of damage, then it would be ok. But someone with experience would know better.

Did some more reading, it seems if replacing the bearings, it’s best to replace the races. That’s decided then.

Now just need to decide if I’ll tackle replacing the races as the rest of the job is fairly simple OR just get a complete hub.
 
You never change a bearing without changing the race, matched pair, don’t get a complete hub, all you need is a punch and a hammer to get races out, look on YouTube how to grease bearings properly, bearings have to be set correctly, basically the hardest part, if you’ve not set a lot of roller bearings you might struggle with this, ask questions and take your time
 
Your best bet is to find a bearing and seal shop, go there with a removed bearing and race, plus seal, ask for two off everything, while there get grease, ask the guy to show you how to grease the bearing properly, and then to explain how to set a roller bearing with end float as per usual, if all that happens your in a good position
 
Id buy a seal/abs pick up ring from mb. Aftermarket seals just seam to cause faults.
 
Wasn’t aware tone ring was in seal
 
Your best bet is to find a bearing and seal shop, go there with a removed bearing and race, plus seal, ask for two off everything, while there get grease, ask the guy to show you how to grease the bearing properly, and then to explain how to set a roller bearing with end float as per usual, if all that happens your in a good position

As above. If not buying genuine, make sure the bearings are made by a reputable brand, e.g. SKF of Timken. And use correct type of grease.
 
You never change a bearing without changing the race, matched pair, don’t get a complete hub, all you need is a punch and a hammer to get races out, look on YouTube how to grease bearings properly, bearings have to be set correctly, basically the hardest part, if you’ve not set a lot of roller bearings you might struggle with this, ask questions and take your time

Thank you for the advice. I know how to pack the bearings correctly and removal and assembly does not seem an issue but I was dubious about being able to get the races out without damaging the hub as never done this before but having seen a few MB hubs with races being removed, I don't think it'll be too hard.

For setting them, I will use a dial gauge and watch a few guides on how to use as never adjusted bearings with a gauge before and have done by feel.

Just occurred to me does your car have SBC??

No my car doesn't have SBC.

Your best bet is to find a bearing and seal shop, go there with a removed bearing and race, plus seal, ask for two off everything, while there get grease, ask the guy to show you how to grease the bearing properly, and then to explain how to set a roller bearing with end float as per usual, if all that happens your in a good position

Don't think I have one near me I'm afraid.

Id buy a seal/abs pick up ring from mb. Aftermarket seals just seam to cause faults.

I have read in a few places that after market ones do seem to cause issues- throwing up errors etc. I presume they were using a poor aftermarket option? Do you have any experience with this?

Most aftermarket bearing kits come with the seal/abs ring in the kit. I wonder if I use a reputable brand like SKF etc if I would face any issues. For example this kit (just for illustration purposes):


This includes the abs sensor ring, am I correct?

MB said they will do the abs/seal rings for £24 each. I always use genuine parts and don't mind the cost but it just doesn't make sense for me but a kit from a reputable brand complete with the ring (as most places only sell a complete kit, not single bearings), as MB don't do bearings separately and then throw the rings away and buy rings from MB. Quite annoying.

As above. If not buying genuine, make sure the bearings are made by a reputable brand, e.g. SKF of Timken. And use correct type of grease.

I was going to use MB grease. And agreed, genuine or a reputable brand.

I spoke to MB today and they don't sell the bearings for this model separately, although they do other models made at a similar time- only a complete hub for this car. So I stand corrected again.
 
Thank you for the advice. I know how to pack the bearings correctly and removal and assembly does not seem an issue but I was dubious about being able to get the races out without damaging the hub as never done this before but having seen a few MB hubs with races being removed, I don't think it'll be too hard.

For setting them, I will use a dial gauge and watch a few guides on how to use as never adjusted bearings with a gauge before and have done by feel.



No my car doesn't have SBC.



Don't think I have one near me I'm afraid.



I have read in a few places that after market ones do seem to cause issues- throwing up errors etc. I presume they were using a poor aftermarket option? Do you have any experience with this?

Most aftermarket bearing kits come with the seal/abs ring in the kit. I wonder if I use a reputable brand like SKF etc if I would face any issues. For example this kit (just for illustration purposes):

...I spoke to MB today and they don't sell the bearings for this model separately, although they do other models made at a similar time- only a complete hub for this car. So I stand corrected again.

I found this to be the case for my Vauxhaull Omega a few years back, front wheel bearing only available as complete hub assembly, so I bought genuine units (GM-branded, made by Toyo in Japan). Luckily they were very reasonably priced. BTW I also replaced the discs and pads at the same time.
 
I found this to be the case for my Vauxhaull Omega a few years back, front wheel bearing only available as complete hub assembly, so I bought genuine units (GM-branded, made by Toyo in Japan). Luckily they were very reasonably priced. BTW I also replaced the discs and pads at the same time.

Nice! I did my brakes (pads) not long ago unfortunately. Its nice when you can get the whole lot done in one go while you have everything removed and taken apart already.
 
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I think a mod will have to remove this member. He’s a new account going around posting on threads offering data and reports on car parts lol
 

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