Which oil

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There's light at the end of the tunnel: when finally everyone has an EV... this will be the end of oil threads :D
 
Hard to say unless it's on that list , but in short here is what he found .


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He had done just a psi wear test. Not longevity, cleaning ability, or storage. His test is merely based on one parameter, that is the film strength. How do we know how such oils perform after 3000 to 5000 mileage later? This is the reason dealership oils are a safe bet. Regardless of what we choose, manufacturer recommended standards are applied for various factors. As long as the engine does not blow up, I'm not looking around.

To add more I've watched videos from piotr over YouTube, and he tested most oils for a duration of 1 minute to 10 minute, this is not how long we use new oil, nor is it how long we drive. None of these testers have used oils for 5K to 15K mileage intervals and then sent them to labs for analysis or opened up their engined to inspect for damage.

I like simple matters so MB 229.5x is enough. If anything happens there will be a recall. If we add something else we are in for a loss of warranty.
 
And, EVs still have tyres.........
EVs have major coolant reservoirs for Ac, and batteries, its all about the best cooling liquids for now. Our eV has motors to run, backed up batteries, there is nothing mentioned as an oil change or any sort of synthetic greese for maintenance. I hope its not use and replace sort or discard able motor.
 
not another oil thread, use the MB spec for engine, end of.
The first time I was recommended to use 0w20, from 5w40, I was shocked. 10 years later, our engines are still running, fuel efficiency has remained the same, no extra noises, acceleration is good for its age. Now I see 0w16 oils in the market for certain American Cars. So yes, stick to only manufacturer recommended standard, there is a reason a group of engineers vs 1 odd engineer is the reason we all stick to dealership and manufacturer recommendation.

Unless we are pushing the cars on the track, we don't require these extreme oils. That extreme oil has a short life limited to a few hours on the track FYI for the OP.

There are break fluids from Castrol and motul with the highest temperature resistance, but they are not rated to last as long as passenger car versions.

Even though these so called oils made it to the top of this list, they were tested at 2 temperatures and pushed to deformation. Again never tested in a car engine, and driven for a distance. How can you be certain these racing oils last your regular service intervals?

Manufacturers test oils in engines, and then create a standard to which we adhere. These standards are not specific to only engine wear, but catalytic converters, emissions, stop/go traffic, cars in storage, fuel efficiency, engine noise, and recycling is considered. And engineers spend countless billed hours to run such tests to create a standard. How Can 1 lunatic engineer challenge them all? Just based on film strength? That too on a short duration?

My first project car had 2 piston rings deformed, leaking/burning oil in excess of 1 Litre per 100 kilometer. I used wurth 5w40 hydro cracked synthetic, read it on team hp forum to be a solid performer and some nonsense about better acceleration, after adding this junk oil, it caused the said oil leak and burning, after a few laps of hard driving. Later based on the recommended stuff by the dealer I used 10w40 mobil to find out half oil was being wasted. When I got the piston rings replaced a month later, stayed with 10w40 Indian Made mobil semi synthetic. And till date after 190K milage its never leaked again.

*Bottom line: I pick MB229. 5, I check the oils which can have the highest flash point and Hths of 3.6 or more, and flow rate at 100 degree Celsius and 150 degree Celsius to be high. Once I have this the rest of the additive package is conformed to 229.5 standard and other stuff is a plus point and I add the items to cart and go to bed.

NO matter what you pick, if its not MB standard, you will surely get extra bills for failing components due to your over confidence towards MB engineers.

When you know high performance oils exist with MB standard approvals, go for those. There are high wear resistant oils with same mb standards go for those. Not some single engineer recommend oil, because it resists wear the best, we don't know for how long it will continue to resist wear without any standard. And more over we don't know how it performs in a car engine that does not demand such psi levels. It may even do adverse damage in the process of real world driving.
 
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For the OP read this: Oil consumption M157 | Engine

If you don't use mb spec oils, turbos will not like it. This fellow had the best 5w40 he thought. Proper maintenance and recommended fluids will keep things running, doing self assessment and adding snake oils and skipping maintenance will attract unnecessary bills.
 
EVs have major coolant reservoirs for Ac, and batteries, its all about the best cooling liquids for now. Our eV has motors to run, backed up batteries, there is nothing mentioned as an oil change or any sort of synthetic greese for maintenance. I hope its not use and replace sort or discard able motor.
Correction: Our EV has motors which are powered by the battery. This said motor does not have any oil change or greese requirement. I've asked the dealer several times, but apart from coolant, brake fluid, nothing was mentioned yet. I'm yet to find out how the transmission is serviced? Strange how the motor and transmission do not have listed service requirements. Yet coolant checks and battery checks are up to Mark. In our 5 year package, apparently everything is covered. But the dealer is uncertain if the transmission and motor require any zf fluid or greese. I hope this doesn't turn out to be an issue like the headlight and tail light condensation issue.
 
The ones where oil money fuels human rights violations, public executions, persecution of gays, and subjugation of women, obviously... :D

Is it still a factor?
Not really. You have a point. I like getting premium mb229.5x so I do. For generic use any 229.5 is a good choice. But getting the extra additives helps me sleep better so I opt for it. I dont even know if it works but I have the option so why not get it. We all opted for extra options in our cars, which we hardly ever used after a few weeks. Greed is human nature, anyone lacking greed is very unsuccessful in life. This is a debate we should have instead of the oils.
 
And the answer is to purchase those approved Mercedes genuine oils .

You can take information from all perspectives and make your choice .


I have taken another route because of some other information from two sources on a similar angle , now personal long term use , 9 years in a high mileage 1.9 Pumpe Duse with it's, vulnerable narrow camshaft lobes that normally see a camshaft kit replacement by 150K , skipped services , constant LongLife intervals or a incorrect semi synthetic and it will need a kit sooner .


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So non approved , super market supplied oil blender Tetrosyl was used .

At sometimes some incredible prices .


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With import duty
So non approved , super market supplied oil blender Tetrosyl was used .

At sometimes some incredible prices .


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You are lucky.
 
I think Ravenol VST 5w40 MB 229. 5 is a good choice. What do you think.
 
To clarify, what Blackstone are saying is that the brand does not matter, but they are not actually advocating using oil spec that isn't recommended by the car manufacture.

In the context of this thread, what Blackstone are saying in effect is that "any oil that is approved to the recommended MB Spec Sheet is fine, regardless of the brand".
 
It's a little grey where Blackstone say " store brands" and refer to Walmart etc .

Whereas Mick's Garage clearly state about independent oil blenders unapproved oil meeting a manufacturers specification because of a predetermined set of ingredients .

Armed with the Blackstone angle I began buying Asda's own which is made by independent oil blender Tetrosyl who are responsible for a plethora of car care products .

Ethos_GRP.pngtetrosyl-pic.jpg


And also blend own brand engine oil for Euro Car Parts Triple QX , Carlube Triple R , Tesco , G Force and Sainsbury's .

Halfords own oil is Mobil 1 produced .


9 years down the line in a high mileage
19 year old 1.9 Pumpe Duse I'm not looking back .

Now we are told to use the correct manufacturer spec oil because it will contain the right additives , so why do I use this VW spec oil in a Merc ?

Because of two things , it is ment to be stable for silly long intervals .
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To be this stable it has to have the top two oil basestocks PAO and Esters which is confirmed elsewhere , more antioxidants , detergents , dispersants , friction modifiers etc .

And a very high level of anti wear performance for the vulnerable narrow camshaft lobes which is nicely summarised by 190 here .

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There's the lubrizol relative performance comparison tool spider web .

Relative Performance Tools


Then more recently coming across the Mick's Garage article .

So there we have it .


Lubrizol relative performance comparison tool

Blackstone laboratories

Mick's Garage

And my 9 year practical .
 
Haven't seen those random prices for a long time , I used to say " When the Asda manager has a bump on the head...."
We pay exorbitant prices for labor, oil, parts, tires and fuel here. But insurance is cheaper compared to you. Customs, duties, and taxes are very high. Customs and duty at 100%, state tax at 9% and federal tax at 9%.
 
I think Ravenol VST 5w40 MB 229. 5 is a good choice. What do you think.
Go for it. It has Mercedes-Benz specific testing approval, and a bonus of 2 other additive packages to slow engine wear. Buy it and Call it a day now. This forum will continue with this topic until you've God willing changed 2 cars.
 
PO, anything meeting the MB spec will be fine, and quite possibly if it meets VW 505.00/507.00 it will be a little better. Spend as much as you like, or as little as you can get away with; your choice.
 

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