which oil?

[BlackC55]

Thanks Dieselman.......... want some 15-50w fully synthethic oil for your troubles?!

How much? £

 

[wongl]

My view is let the garage professionals get on with their work, I wouldn't be too happy if a customer turned up at my work place tomorrow and asked if he could supply my chair and desk for the day to reduce his costs.

Presumably if you charged out your chair and desk to your customers by the hour, then surely they should have a say in it, no? Certainly when I ran my own consulting business a few years ago, I let my customers have a say in whether I travelled by business or economy class as they will be footing the bill directly. Needless to say I did not have any takers for business class Unfortunately I never had the foresight to charge out my desk and chair so this was never an option for my customers to get involved in!

 

[Rory]

I do feel a bit of tight-wad doing it, but I take my own oil.
One of the reasons was I couldn't get a straight answer from the dealer about which 229.x spec they used, and I was concerned they'd use lower grade and reduce the service interval.

I was pretty amazed when they told me they charge £12.95 + VAT per litre - so the 6.5L (assuming they didn't round it up) my car needs would cost near as dammit £100. I paid about £30.

What amazes me is that they cheerfully agreed. From a business point of view, I find it astonishing they can give up £70+ (£90+ if it really only does cost them £1/L) of pure profit without a murmur. They didn't even make an oil disposal charge. Made paying a fiver for the screenwash almost joyful.

 

[whitenemesis]

A slight aside..

On reading my copy of the service sheet for the "B" service my car received last week (under a Service-Plus contract) I see;

Oil Type: MB 229.5 Customer choice

I certainly didn't state a preference, I don't know what MB 229.5 type is! Could someone enlighten me?

 

[Kompressor_Dude]

How much? £

If you want it I'll bring it when i drop my car in for the work in a few weeks. The oil's no use to me so its yours!

 

[124fan]

This oil thing is very confusing, and in my opinion quite important. I've had a look on Mobil's site (rang them too), castrol's site, and Shell's site, for my vehicle I've been using a 10w40 for years, but with the exception of Shell, who recommended a 10w40, the rest are recommending a 5w40.

Would I be making a good move to put a 5w40 in my C250Td with 227k on the clock, next service?

Like everyone here, I want whats best for the long haul, its just not clear whats best, especially when the big oil Co's don't agree.

We have in our family a Honda civic 1.7cdi, a Merc c250td, a Merc 308d, and a Toyota Landcruiser 3l td, will one oil do all?

Thanks

 

[Tilly]

I'm not being funny but if I was to supply the exact same brand and grade of oil at a cheaper price then why throw money away? I can afford to service it at their prices, I just choose not to considering that for the sake of a two mile drive from the dealership I can pick up some oil and save enough money to pay for half a tank of petrol which would be much more use to me than giving away money to a company who charges extra for the privilege.

With this in mind, sorry to put it bluntly but my local dealership in my eyes is run by a bunch of monkeys and I believe I am well within my rights to claw back every last penny I can from them with the way they have tret me previously and refused to give me a courtesy due to my age even though there was no stipulation from Mercedes in any handbooks etc in regards to this, yes I could kick up a fuss with them and refer them to their own policy to insist on a courtesy car but its a ballache and more hassle than its worth. I would go to a different dealership but due to work commitments its hard to arrange the logistics.

I'm not having a go so don't think I am but I'm just tired of the aggro the car has caused me, both my old Ford and the BMW gave me nowhere near as much trouble and come next year when insurance allows I will be glad to see the back of it. But at the end of the day no matter how much or how little money an individual has, you still have to look after it. This 30/40 quid here and there soon adds up.

I appreciate you're new to the forum so I assume you are not aware of the hassles I've had with the car and to be fair I'd get the oil out of spite anyway because they've had more than enough money from me already! lol

 

[david b]

You have P.M

See P.M

 

[Tilly]

cheers for that david, to be fair I'm still debating whether to go independant, I know exactly how garages work and I used to be a mechanic myself for a main dealer although not mercedes and you can always tell when someone has done a proper job from the service sheet, not some monkey who just ticks every box on there as they did with my A service. One example is my can of tyre foam that is all fine, present and correct... oh actually, I don't have one, I have a space saver... so its not like the main dealer did a particularly good job when they're just lazy and ticking every box expecting all to be good and well on the A service.

My only worry was resale value but the chances are I'll probably fire it back into the trade through work and they don't bother if it has a merc or independant service history as long as it has one but at the same time if I was to sell it privately some people insist on a full merc SH so it is something I will be checking prices on like yourself and making a judgement dependant on the two, cheers for the PM

 

[Satch]

This oil thing is very confusing, and in my opinion quite important. I've had a look on Mobil's site (rang them too), castrol's site, and Shell's site, for my vehicle I've been using a 10w40 for years, but with the exception of Shell, who recommended a 10w40, the rest are recommending a 5w40.

Would I be making a good move to put a 5w40 in my C250Td with 227k on the clock, next service?

Like everyone here, I want whats best for the long haul, its just not clear whats best, especially when the big oil Co's don't agree.

We have in our family a Honda civic 1.7cdi, a Merc c250td, a Merc 308d, and a Toyota Landcruiser 3l td, will one oil do all?

Thanks

Do not get hung up on something like the difference between a 5w40 or 10w40. The "40" bit is SAE 40 grade no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 5W, 10W, 15W or 20W. It all has a viscosity of between 12.5 cSt (centistrokes)and 16.3 cSt at 100C.

The 0W, 5W, 10w or 20W is a measure of the viscosity at a lower temperature, but not necessarily the same one! Because a 10W is held to be fine down to ambient temperature of -20c and a 5W down to -30C. in the UK the difference between the grades only matters because it is indicative of low temperature pumping effort required and hence fuel economy and the speed at which the oil gets around the engine.

It is the various oil specifications for your vehicles that you need be clear on. This might help

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Bear in mind that newer diesels with particulate filters (and vehicles with Cats. in general) are held to require low ash oils, in the MB world those specs being MB229.31 and MB229.51.

 

[Rory]

I certainly didn't state a preference, I don't know what MB 229.5 type is! Could someone enlighten me?

It's the pukka stuff - fully synthetic. Like Mobil 1 or equivalent.

 

[Rory]

Do not get hung up on something like the difference between a 5w40 or 10w40. The "40" bit is SAE 40 grade no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 5W, 10W, 15W or 20W. It all has a viscosity of between 12.5 cSt (centistrokes)and 16.3 cSt at 100C.

The 0W, 5W, 10w or 20W is a measure of the viscosity at a lower temperature, but not necessarily the same one! Because a 10W is held to be fine down to ambient temperature of -20c and a 5W down to -30C. in the UK the difference between the grades only matters because it is indicative of low temperature pumping effort required and hence fuel economy and the speed at which the oil gets around the engine.

It is the various oil specifications for your vehicles that you need be clear on. This might help

In the back of the handbook for my C270CDi, there's a chart with oil viscosity vs ambient temperature. Given the relatively mild (both lower and upper) temps we get in the UK, the chart indicates that I could use almost anything from 0-20 at low end, and 30-50 at high end.

 

[Wezzel]

Is it me or are some members proud of how much they spend on servicing? Something perhaps to brag about in the pub with their mates.

Who in their right mind would pay close to £1000 for routine servicing which is virtually nothing more than an oil and filter change. There are some fantastic indys out there with experienced Merc trained mechanics who charge a fraction of the cost of a main dealer. My car hasn't seen a main dealer for many years but I still managed to get a free boot lid replacement carried out under warranty last year 'cos I had receipts from an indy.

And okay, the car may be worth less at sale time but add in the cost saving over all those years of servicing and you will at least break even.

Just my two pennerth.

 

[gina2201]

I looked at my local garage to do my service (have used them all the time for other cars) but found the price is relatively similar from a Mercedes specialist, so I'm sure that stamp will sit alot better besides the rest!

But yes, all services should be carried out to the same degree of workmanship, although I know that this is not always the case.

 

[Glenn Smith]

A few points....

Firstly, want to know how much (even your friendly independent) makes on oil? Well, my neice runs an independent SMART dealership. Fully synthetic oil, the type you will pay £12-15 a litre for in the shops (or £20-25 a litre at the garage), costs just over £1.00 when bought in bulk (200 litres). Do a quick google search and you can buy it yourself in small quantities for £3 a litre. There are only 3 oil companies in the UK making it (ESSO, Castrol and Mobi), everything else will be from one of these with a different label.

Secondly, don't think for one second that your "A" service (nothing more than a simple oil and filter change and tyre pressure check) will be done by some wise old sage of a mechanic who expertly earns his £125-plus an hour the garage charges you. Think more along the lines of the apprentice on £90 a week, so why the hell should you fell compelled to spend £300+ on it?

Thirdly, if your garage is willing to accept your parts and won't charge you, why look at others with such disdain? The arrogance of some of you looking down your noses because someone else might want to save money..... you could be BMW drivers.

I say each to their own, i can't see anything wrong with supplying your own oil for a service, because the garages do have huge mark ups, i know i'm in a related industry, the last oil i bought was £30 for 25litres, yes 25litres of semi synthetic with spec that meets or exceeds for most requirements, i've never paid for expensive oils and believe that regular changes are more important especially on higher mileage motors like i normally drive (provided the spec meets the vehicle requirements)
Mercedes servicing is very expensive for what you get after all i can do a B service myself for about £55 including air filter, oil filter and oil, spark plugs coolant and brake fluid change and a bit of time. The only thing i can't really do is the check for faults on the managment system, but i have no warning lamps and car runs fine, so this is how i like to do it if others are happy to pay for dealer servicing so be it, it's their choice.

 

[Glenn Smith]

I am shocked at this comment on oil, why pay ££££ for a car and then complain when service oil is £30 or £40 pounds more than you can get it for.
Who in their right mind would service a vehicle using fluids supplied by the customer and run the risk of the customer coming back with a warranty claim??

Perhaps you would consider asking an airline to let you help fly the aircraft, as you are cheaper than the regular pilot.

Why not simply buy a car you can afford to run!!!

Disgraceful comment, how much do Mercedes charge for oil? around £10-£15 a litre. Some people, me included, work hard and save to buy the car we want, i could afford to take my car to a Merc. dealer, but i don't. luckily i can do, and enjoy servicing and repairing my own car and it saves me some money, so what car should i buy?

 

[Steveatki]

My comments on servicing costs are directed at those who choose to buy a new car with 3 yrs warranty.To maintain a warranty and mobilo you need to use MB servicing. I have had software updates on Comand, a replacement battery (without my asking), all for no extra cost. Would an indy have done that? I would add I have other cars that are out of warranty and which i service with my own fair hands. I could quite easily service the Mercedes, but i would rather leave it to the dealer during warranty. I reckon I will get the money back when I trade it with FSH. I could also get a blank book from ebay and forge a FSH and save money....but it wouldn't stand up at the dealer at trade in would it?

Lets have it right lads and lasses, enjoy the car and take the cost, it goes with the patch.

 

[124fan]

Do not get hung up on something like the difference between a 5w40 or 10w40. The "40" bit is SAE 40 grade no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 5W, 10W, 15W or 20W. It all has a viscosity of between 12.5 cSt (centistrokes)and 16.3 cSt at 100C.

The 0W, 5W, 10w or 20W is a measure of the viscosity at a lower temperature, but not necessarily the same one! Because a 10W is held to be fine down to ambient temperature of -20c and a 5W down to -30C. in the UK the difference between the grades only matters because it is indicative of low temperature pumping effort required and hence fuel economy and the speed at which the oil gets around the engine.

It is the various oil specifications for your vehicles that you need be clear on. This might help

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Bear in mind that newer diesels with particulate filters (and vehicles with Cats. in general) are held to require low ash oils, in the MB world those specs being MB229.31 and MB229.51.

Thanks thats a very interesting site, I also found the tyre article good reading,

Cheers

 

[griffin5]

When i had a RAV 4 the Toyota agent had no problem with me supplying Mobil 1 as they didn't use it. The relevant Mobil 1 documents were stamped and as they say north of the border (clue there) bobs your auntie!

 

[BlackC55]

My comments on servicing costs are directed at those who choose to buy a new car with 3 yrs warranty.To maintain a warranty and mobilo you need to use MB servicing. I have had software updates on Comand, a replacement battery (without my asking), all for no extra cost. Would an indy have done that? I would add I have other cars that are out of warranty and which i service with my own fair hands. I could quite easily service the Mercedes, but i would rather leave it to the dealer during warranty. I reckon I will get the money back when I trade it with FSH. I could also get a blank book from ebay and forge a FSH and save money....but it wouldn't stand up at the dealer at trade in would it?

Lets have it right lads and lasses, enjoy the car and take the cost, it goes with the patch.

That is not true. You no longer have to have your car serviced by a main dealer to keep your warranty. As long as genuine or OEM parts are used and it is serviced on time.

Updates and the free battery you got are free to any MB with a service measure or re-call outstanding on it regardless of its service history.