Your favourite termination type?

[GLK]

Err, your gadget's wire termination type that is :bannana:

Getting ready to introduce a small gadget for MB (and other marques) enthusiasts, and am wondering what would be the best way to do the in/out wires: it's a small box (73x43x23mm) that will have 4 wires (2-IN; 2-OUT).

It's a completely hidden install - i.e. the unit will not be visible at all (fits inside a tailgate or boot, etc).

There are basically three options here (as pictured):

1 - naked wires*
2 - crimps
3 - m/f plug & socket

Obviously, with option 3, there will be an extra pair of m/f plug & socket included, to solder to the existing wires in the car. Which, in essence, takes us back to option 1.

*Re: option 1 - the wires will be tinned, of course - I just didn't bother for the pic, sorry.

Anyway, please vote and I'd appreciate any feedback.[/QUOTE]

 

[PobodY]

I'd rather have the option to remove a gadget, so would rather not solder the wires together... so then it's a choice between using pliers or unclipping a connector, I pick the connector.

 

[Aero]

Option 3 for speed, simplicity, security of connection and portability

 

[BTB 500]

Crimps are probably more robust/secure and the wiring will look more OEM when the gadget is removed. They will also handle more current, although I suspect that's not relevant here!

 

[GLK]

I'd rather have the option to remove a gadget, so would rather not solder the wires together... so then it's a choice between using pliers or unclipping a connector, I pick the connector.

I use the option3 for my own installations, as I too like to be able to unplug a unit and just plug the default wire back into itself, so to speak.

However, this option requires that corresponding receptacles are soldered to the existing wire, so might not be for everyone...

It was suggested that, it might be better to offer this as an upgrade / option, and I think it's a great idea, so am certainly going to just that.

 

[GLK]

Crimps are probably more robust/secure and the wiring will look more OEM when the gadget is removed. They will also handle more current, although I suspect that's not relevant here!

Yes, the current is minimal, and I suspect the crimp option would be the fastest to fit, but not necessarily to remove, should a customer wishes to do so at a later date. But then, one can't provide a single best solution for every eventuality...

I'm inclined to go with option 1 as standard, and option 3 as an upgrade of sort, with 2 extra plugs included in the set.

 

[GLK]

Option 3 for speed, simplicity, security of connection and portability

Thanks. It would certainly be quicker to plug / unplug the unit with option 3, once installed, but it won't be the fastest or simplest to fit - the receptacles need to be soldered to existing wires, and that might put some people off.

Definitely an attractive option, for anyone comfortable with doing this though.

 

[BTB 500]

How about supplying crimp-fit bullet connectors that can be left in place when the device is removed (females for the supply cables)?

 

[Druk]

How about supplying crimp-fit bullet connectors that can be left in place when the device is removed (females for the supply cables)?

This^. Although if what you're proposing in #3 is to have a female with an open ended cable for joining into the cars loom by solder and wrap? In which case 3.



.

 

[Meldrew2]

Option 2 is good, provided the terminals are fitted with a proper ratchet crimp tool. Not one of those little combination crimp / wire stripper things - they don't put enough pressure on the connection.

I like to crimp a second time, over the insulated ends of the terminal, to grip the insulation of the conductor and close (at least partly) the end of the terminal.

 

[John Jones Jr]

Offer both one & three as some my prefer to solder and heatshrink.

 

[GLK]

This^. Although if what you're proposing in #3 is to have a female with an open ended cable for joining into the cars loom by solder and wrap? In which case 3.

Yes, the plug option will have:

1. Spare male plug, to solder to existing wires, coming from SAM
2. Female socket at the IN end of the gadget
3. Male plug at the OUT end of the gadget
4. Spare female socket, to solder to existing wires, going to the third brake light

The spare plugs will have 100mm tinned wires, so plenty of room to slip on a couple of heatshrink sleeves, and solder properly.

Once done, this is the best (in my opinion, of course) option to have, as it takes less than a minute to unplug / bypass the gadget and return to the stock loom layout.

The bullet connectors is certainly worth considering, as they would provide pretty much the same functionality, without the need to solder wires ...

 

[Druk]

Soldering by splicing-in rather than cutting-in is my preferred choice of joint. The original cable is then uncorrupted and although taping is not the best solution for insulation the integrity of the joint is much preferable.

So...#3.

 

[Ted]

Option 4
Scotchloks.

Regards
Ted 'the scotchlok kinh'


Awaits incoming...

 

[Ted]

'King' :/

 

[BTB 500]

Option 4
Scotchloks.

Regards
Ted 'the scotchlok kinh'


Awaits incoming...

I once paid a lot of money for OEM towing electrics to be fitted to my brand new car by a main dealer (not M-B), as there was no factory option. Got suspicious when I heard an aftermarket-type indicator buzzer going off in the boot, whipped the panel off and found a generic harness with every connection to the main loom done with a Scotchlok ...

Had them remove the lot and fit what I'd paid for.

 

[GLK]

Option 4
Scotchloks.

you might very well think that, I could not possibly comment



:bannana:

 

[GLK]

Soldering by splicing-in rather than cutting-in is my preferred choice of joint. The original cable is then uncorrupted and although taping is not the best solution for insulation the integrity of the joint is much preferable.

So...#3.

There's no option to just splice - the units sits between the signal source, and the light, hence the extra plug/socket in the set.

 

[poormansporsche]

Guillotine