Swirl flaps and turbo actuator om642

[Blackbenzino]

Hi guys, new member looking for some advice, I have a 2009 w211 e320cdi sport om642, had the bucking and jerking with limp mode a few times intermittently and able to restart and be ok again, the other day it did it and I got engine light on, took battery off for 15 mins put it back on and everything OK again, it did it again a couple of days later on way to work a late shift intending to take battery off again the next morning but it cleared itself overnight, the next day after overtaking it went into limp again, switch off and back on drove ok but engine light back on, took it to my mechanic and plugged it in to find the following faults 2510 check y77/1 boost pressure reguator positioned signal fault, 2032 check g3/2 o2 sensor upstream of kat voltage too high, 2616 check b60 exhaust back pressure sensor control variation- exhaust back pressure is too high, 2513 check m55 inlet port shut off motor positioned signals fault, I did the easiest thing and opened the turbo actuator to find all connections look OK but there is quite a bit of play on the arm/worm gear. How much play is acceptable? The link to the turbo vanes moves very freely without any resistance, should there be any resistance? Also how common is it for swirl flaps to become detached as I go on holiday in 5 weeks time and can't afford to do any repairs until I come back, sorry for the long winded post and thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[W1ghty]

What’s the mileage buddy ?
The actuator, inlet port motor,exhaust back pressure sensor and I think the egr are all governed by the same fuse , F44 15amp in the engine bay . Faults on one cam in my limited understanding sometimes show up as another ? Check this fuse and carry a spare in the glovebox ?

Most om642 have probably experienced this bucking .

You can spray clean the inside of the turbo actuator with electrical cleaner to get the carbon gunk out , then add a small amount of high temp grease to the worm gear . Check the wire connections that run from the outside edge of the pcb board inside , they can develop cracks/breaks.

Remove the exhaust back pressure sensor and spray clean the underside hole that can block up .

Buy a 4.7k ohm resistor and fit it to the middle two terminals of the electrical connector to the inlet port motor plug . This will trick the car into thinking the swirl flaps are still connected . I did this to mine a few years ago . Google om642 resistor fix to find loads of reading on it (cost £1 ) . Keep one in the glovebox for later anyway .

Remove and clean the egr valve

Spray a turbo cleaner spray through the front of the turbo with the engine running as well ?

 

[Blackbenzino]

What’s the mileage buddy ?
The actuator, inlet port motor,exhaust back pressure sensor and I think the egr are all governed by the same fuse , F44 15amp in the engine bay . Faults on one cam in my limited understanding sometimes show up as another ? Check this fuse and carry a spare in the glovebox ?

Most om642 have probably experienced this bucking .

You can spray clean the inside of the turbo actuator with electrical cleaner to get the carbon gunk out , then add a small amount of high temp grease to the worm gear . Check the wire connections that run from the outside edge of the pcb board inside , they can develop cracks/breaks.

Remove the exhaust back pressure sensor and spray clean the underside hole that can block up .

Buy a 4.7k ohm resistor and fit it to the middle two terminals of the electrical connector to the inlet port motor plug . This will trick the car into thinking the swirl flaps are still connected . I did this to mine a few years ago . Google om642 resistor fix to find loads of reading on it (cost £1 ) . Keep one in the glovebox for later anyway .

Remove and clean the egr valve

Spray a turbo cleaner spray through the front of the turbo with the engine running as well ?

Hi W1ghty, thanks for the response, was gonna clean the egr on my day off Thursday but rain stopped any hope of that, I did give the actuator a good blow out when I had that apart a few days ago, found nothing wrong with connections but a fair bit of play in the arm and worm gear, was wondering how much play is normal or acceptable, as for the swirl flaps fix I was going to refurb the whole lot as in clean the inlets as I'm sure they will be well gunged up by now and replace the arms and motor. The resistor trick is tempting short term, if the flaps have become stuck is this likely to be in open or closed position?

 

[Blackbenzino]

What’s the mileage buddy ?
The actuator, inlet port motor,exhaust back pressure sensor and I think the egr are all governed by the same fuse , F44 15amp in the engine bay . Faults on one cam in my limited understanding sometimes show up as another ? Check this fuse and carry a spare in the glovebox ?

Most om642 have probably experienced this bucking .

You can spray clean the inside of the turbo actuator with electrical cleaner to get the carbon gunk out , then add a small amount of high temp grease to the worm gear . Check the wire connections that run from the outside edge of the pcb board inside , they can develop cracks/breaks.

Remove the exhaust back pressure sensor and spray clean the underside hole that can block up .

Buy a 4.7k ohm resistor and fit it to the middle two terminals of the electrical connector to the inlet port motor plug . This will trick the car into thinking the swirl flaps are still connected . I did this to mine a few years ago . Google om642 resistor fix to find loads of reading on it (cost £1 ) . Keep one in the glovebox for later anyway .

Remove and clean the egr valve

Spray a turbo cleaner spray through the front of the turbo with the engine running as well ?

She's on 124,000 miles

 

[W1ghty]

Hi W1ghty, thanks for the response, was gonna clean the egr on my day off Thursday but rain stopped any hope of that, I did give the actuator a good blow out when I had that apart a few days ago, found nothing wrong with connections but a fair bit of play in the arm and worm gear, was wondering how much play is normal or acceptable, as for the swirl flaps fix I was going to refurb the whole lot as in clean the inlets as I'm sure they will be well gunged up by now and replace the arms and motor. The resistor trick is tempting short term, if the flaps have become stuck is this likely to be in open or closed position?

Yep you are correct that the resistor fix short term (although a lot of people leave it in) but I’m recommending it as a quick cheap way of pinning down or ruling out a fault .
Im diy only so my knowledge is based only on what I’ve read or problems I’ve had and fixed .
The swirl flaps are in the open position when the car is working normally , so that’s when the resistor should go in . If the swirl flaps have jammed in the manifolds because of build up then the fact the car returns to normal May mean it’s early stages of them sticking and then freeing up again ?

 

[Blackbenzino]

Yep you are correct that the resistor fix short term (although a lot of people leave it in) but I’m recommending it as a quick cheap way of pinning down or ruling out a fault .
Im diy only so my knowledge is based only on what I’ve read or problems I’ve had and fixed .
The swirl flaps are in the open position when the car is working normally , so that’s when the resistor should go in . If the swirl flaps have jammed in the manifolds because of build up then the fact the car returns to normal May mean it’s early stages of them sticking and then freeing up again ?

I checked fuse 44, thats fine, I think I'll be ordering a couple of resistors in the mean time and give the egr and exhaust back pressure sensor a good clean, any thoughts on play in actuator arm/worm gear, it is quite sloppy and when I lift the linkage to the turbo vanes there is no resistance at all.

 

[W1ghty]

I checked fuse 44, thats fine, I think I'll be ordering a couple of resistors in the mean time and give the egr and exhaust back pressure sensor a good clean, any thoughts on play in actuator arm/worm gear, it is quite sloppy and when I lift the linkage to the turbo vanes there is no resistance at all.

When I cleaned my actuator (I’ve done it every couple of years) there is some play on the worm gear, but it’s hard to say what’s a lot or normal . I’m guessing it worsens with time and mileage ? A refurbed actuator is just over £100 I believe but you might as well start with cheaper checks first just in case it’s ok .
I can check the turbo linkage for tightness/movement at some point but I’ve got a crappy cold at the moment so it’s a case of man down

 

[Blackbenzino]

When I cleaned my actuator (I’ve done it every couple of years) there is some play on the worm gear, but it’s hard to say what’s a lot or normal . I’m guessing it worsens with time and mileage ? A refurbed actuator is just over £100 I believe but you might as well start with cheaper checks first just in case it’s ok .
I can check the turbo linkage for tightness/movement at some point but I’ve got a crappy cold at the moment so it’s a case of man down

Thanks for the info buddy and get well soon.

 

[W1ghty]

@unclebuck , you are up on all this stuff .

 

[W1ghty]

Don’t drop the chrome washer that’s under the exhaust back pressure sensor if you take it off !

 

[Blackbenzino]

Don’t drop the chrome washer that’s under the exhaust back pressure sensor if you take it off !

I'll bare that in mind

 

[unclebuck]

back pressure sensor... i bet its full of soot, i cleaned mine up and it was fine.

i had some isopropyl here, cotton buds, tissue etc, took my time, did not put pressure on the inner part of the sensor when cleaning so not to damage the sendor plate inside. keep going until its spotless in there. other option replace with a new merc one.

there is a screenshot of my issue just before i sorted it, similar thing.

I bet its just the back pressure sensor.

 

[unclebuck]

intake manifolds, oil cooler seals | Engine

Oooh you've got that all nice and shiny! That must of taken a lot of work... I've opened mine up twice, including taking the black plastic off last time. I didn't notice mine binding and was surprised at the condition and how smooth it felt @ 160k. It didn't solve my juddering on light...

forums.mbclub.co.uk

 

[Blackbenzino]

Looks like I've got plans for my day off on Monday now..............weather permitting

 

[Smiley]

The back pressure sensor is a good suggestion - it is very easy to get to and clean. You will need a deep socket (24mm iirc) and as said watch out for the washer.
If you do end up doing a full strip and clean of the manifolds then I would really consider replacing the oil cooler whilst you have access to it. They have a habit of leaking and the manifolds need to come off to get to it.

 

[Blackbenzino]

The back pressure sensor is a good suggestion - it is very easy to get to and clean. You will need a deep socket (24mm iirc) and as said watch out for the washer.
If you do end up doing a full strip and clean of the manifolds then I would really consider replacing the oil cooler whilst you have access to it. They have a habit of leaking and the manifolds need to come off to get to it.

Thanks smiley, was gonna order a full gasket kit including the oil cooler seals anyway I've heard about the cooler seals being rubbish and only intend stripping it all down once.

 

[unclebuck]

go through my thread i linked i rebuilt mine lots of photos.

 

[Blackbenzino]

go through my thread i linked i rebuilt mine lots of photos.

Thanks uncle bucking I'll have a look later.

 

[Blackbenzino]

Quick update, Had exhaust back pressure sensor and egr valve out today, pretty disappointing as i was hoping to see them all gunged up, a light dusting on both, took about 30 seconds with a softish brush to clean egr valve, cleaned out back pressure sensor while at it, took it for a run and was like a rocket ship for a couple of miles then back to limp mode again, I took the bat wing off and did notice about 1.5mm sideways play in turbo shaft, I've also taken some video of play in actuator arm.